1st Aug 2006, 19:06

I must have gotten one of the only decent Blazers manufactured in '97, reading all of the previous posts. I purchased it with 32,000 miles and now just turned over 146,000 miles.

The FM portion of the radio no longer works well... oh well, still have CD and AM radio!!

I did have to replace the tires @ 105,000... for the first time.

I have yet to replace the front or rear brakes, but I do check them every other oil change (3000 miles religiously). Surprising considering I trailer a boat almost weekly over an hour each way.

That's it other than oil changes (engine and trans) and tune-ups.

Too bad my wife chose a Honda CRV... 74,000 and we have replaced: tires, brakes (front and rear), fuel pump, intake manifold gasket, alternator and driver's side rear axle. I have spent more on repairs for the Honda (poor Honda warranty policy) than what I have into the Blazer... including purchase price.


3rd Aug 2006, 18:31

I started reading these posts to find out what the horrible squeaking sound is from my left front tire of my '97 Blazer. I've been complaining about it for a week now, but after reading these posts I realize I've been very lucky to have dodged most of the problems posted.

I bought it 6 years ago with 32,000 and it now has 165,000. In the past two years, I have put about 26,000 per year on it with a job driving long distances.

So far, I replaced the alternator 3 years ago (actually my Dad did it) for about $120 for the part, I did have the wiper motor go about 5 years ago, $90 to fix.

So far, I've done brake pads twice and did have the hard shift in the automatic transmission from 1st to 2nd gear around 120,000. Tranny guy wanted $1800 to rebuild, got my mechanic to replace on small valve for $300, so far, so good. I only need to get one more year out of it.

4x4 had a problem the first winter, got a used encoder motor for $100, my mechanic couldn't guarantee it because it was from the junkyard, knock on wood, five years later and it's still working.

Biggest expense was the AC compresser this summer, almost tried to live without it, but it was just too hot so invested the $600.

Now it looks like I'll be doing the upper and lower ball joints, heard it will be somewhere between $400 and $500 which hurts after the AC compressor, but it's been pretty good overall the past few years and fortunately, my mechanic is willing to be a little creative.

I think I drove it one year too long, should have sold it last summer! All I can say is get a second opinion, I was ready to trade it in with the tranny issue when I heard the $1800 but $300, that was reasonable and I've gotten another 47,000 miles out of it. Shop around until you find a reputable mechanic, they are out there! Good luck.

3rd Aug 2006, 18:43

This seems to be an ongoing thread, Let me just state, I have a 97 blazer, have had 91 94, Astro 90, 92, Express van 99, Silverado 98, I will admit after having a lot of Chevy vehicles. (this list does not count all the vehicles from the 60's 70's and 80's) that the 97 blazer has more problems than the others. I'm a mechanic now I spend most of my time in dealerships all makes and in the local college training instructor. I still work on a lot of vehicles and help address many local problems. In recent years I have specialized in undercar repair. I have all the highest grade tools including complete obd readers and programing systems. I only state this to set the ground work for what I am about to say.

ALL VEHICLES have problems. Maintenance is critical. And when parts fail especially early (prematurely) or repeatedly. Find another source. I can tell you All Blazers have ball joint issues. The replacement brand is critical for longer life. A bargain part can cost you in the long run. Some dealer parts are inferior. Talk to a mechanic who is familiar with your vehicle and has alternate sources for parts.

There are companies out there that do research and manufacture better parts for vehicles who have inherent problems.

And remember this vehicle is now going to celebrate it's 10 years of on the road service.

Go to the sites where ford has had fire problems due to electrical problems. Toyota with its Wonderful transmission cost.

But now for the real reason I'm even writing in this link. I was disgusted with some of the cost you all are quoting from mechanics. some are in line with the repair some are way over priced. Get a second opinion. Call and get parts prices yourself to see what they coast retail. even if you are not going to do the work yourself. Allow 15% max markup for the shop overhead. (they do have a lot of equipment they have to pay for) There are manuals out there that set a flat rate time for parts to be replaced. don't be penalized because your mechanic is not familiar with your vehicle and or problem. And takes longer to do the work than he should. And makes you pay for him to learn.

Many times a higher priced flat rate shop will cost you less than a bargain hourly shop. think about it.

With the Internet you can find a lot of info about your problem before you take it into a good mechanic and make his job easier.

Good Luck and happy driving.

And remember stupidity and cars don't mix.

6th Sep 2006, 06:59

After reading these comments about the 97 Blazer I'm more than a little paranoid to drive this vehicle much further than the top of hill from my driveway - gravity power to get home.

Currently it is residing on Albert's lift - we can't even get it to fire never mind start. I've been stranded twice in the 3 months since I've owned this car. Previously in my 40+yrs of driving, I've been stranded a total of once.

I have a whole laundry list of parts replaced, similar to what you have read here, that now reside in the storage compartment in the wheel-wells.

MPG - how about PPM - parts per mile, factor that in to your real operating costs. I'll take my none computerized 14.5 MPG 69 Pontiac anyday over the crap being produced today.

19th Oct 2006, 10:48

I'm trying to find out what the annoying humming type noise is coming from the front passenger side wheel of my 97 Jimmy. I just replaced loud over sized tires and am now hearing this humming noise every 5 seconds when rolling down the road once I hit 45 MPH. The hum lasts for about 2 seconds, then goes away for about 3-5 seconds, then back again. I'm guessing it was there before my new tires, I just couldn't hear it over the howl of the old tires. I had it in to the shop when I got the tires and the he said the front right ball joint is showing signs of wear, but will be O.K. for awhile. So... long story short I'm looking for the signs that my ball and or U joints need to be replaced? Is this the cause of the humming noise?