2000 Chevrolet Blazer LS from North America - Comments

I'm on my third S-10 Blazer. The first was a 1988 that I put 137K on. The second one was a 1995 and it had 175K when I sold it. The present one is a 2000 and it has 133K on it. For you people that know very little about cars. Ball joints do wear out. I changed the 88's when the truck had 90K on it. The 95's were changed at 110K. I just put new ball joints in the 2000 today at 133,492 miles. These were the original ball joints. They would have been fine had my son kept up on the greasing of them. Oh well, you can't teach them everything. Squeaking door complaints are normal. Lube your hinges and you won't have this problem. Wheel bearings are common on these at around 70K. I just did mine today also. The drivers side was gone and was the original bearing. The passenger side had been changed at 75K. I figured since I have it all apart I would replace it anyway. I hate doing a job twice. I never would have owned three Blazers if I didn't have such good luck with them.

I am disgusted with my 2000 Chevy S10 Blazer 4WD 4 Door. The door hinge broke today so the door is just hanging, I need to replace the wheel hubs, brakes (again), seat handles broken, gas gauge broke, hazard light switch that that does'nt stop clicking, what else, yea, the other doors are on there way out too, replaced alternator, rusted underside, third brake light went, replaced it at $180.00 and it's not working again, what else... car sucks, I should have traded it in a year ago when my hubby told me too... very disgusted! We take good car of this car too...

I bought a 2000 LT Blazer new and I STILL love my Blazer. It has been in two head-on accidents (not my fault) that caused over $20,000 in repairs, but very little has gone wrong with it since, which I found surprising with the amount of damage that was done.

In the 6 years I've owned it I have only replaced the alternator, and the left front wheel bearing and of course brakes. In one of the accidents the left front wheel took the brunt of the impact. I am having a problem with the left front wheel again and the bearing and brakes are less than a year old. Yesterday it started making a very loud high-pitched screeching sound. It is so loud that on the highway the cars around me can hear it. Any ideas on what could cause this? I've heard it could possibly be the Universal Joints or a slipped brake-pad.

2000 Chevrolet Blazer LS 4dr 2wd w/touring suspension.

Since the blazer was new, there's always been a burning smell of rubber after parking it. The alignment was so far off that the tires were rubbing on the sway bars. Oil Cooler lines started leaking at 36000 miles. Both seat handles broke about the same time. Rear windshield washer quit at about 50K. So did the DRL/Auto head light sensor. The headlights always come on, even in the day because the sensor is broke and thinks it's always night time. This causes the interior lights to be dimmed on the dash and makes it almost impossible to read the odometer and clock/radio. The doors are falling off, well really the hinges/pins are needing replaced and constantly maintained.

Annoying thunking noise up front has finally been diagnosed as poorly designed hood hinges that allow the hood to thud up against the body every time you hit the slightest road irregularity. I can put a rag between the hood and fender or pay GM $55 to put a spring washer on the hinge which "might" fix it. Intake Manifold Gasket started leaking at 55K miles. The interior has creaks and rattles in it that no car should ever have regardless of miles. Chevrolet can add me to the list of hundreds of thousands of people who will never again buy a GM product because of such poor quality in this one vehicle alone. It's no wonder that Toyota and Honda are gaining more and more market share and the "Big Three" (Ford-Dodge-Chevy) are losing it. Toyota just took over Ford for the #2 spot, with Honda close behind. If GM doesn't get with it and take care of all these problems that they know about, they'll be going down next. Besides, I think I'd rather buy a Honda or Toyota made in Alabama or Texas than a Ford or Chevy made in Mexico or Canada.

2000 Chevy blazer LT, 4-door - 4WD.

OK, I've had this truck since 2001, when I bought it with 12K on the clock from a Chevy dealer in Texas. After some initial dealer BS about why my vehicle shook when braking - no pal, you do not 'balance rotors' with weights like balancing tires - it was a good truck. Sure it eats brake pads and rotors like I throw back pizza, but it's a heavy truck, one should expect them to need replacing at least every 1.5 - 2 years.

The starting voltage sensitivity is irritating, as I'm getting tired of fighting with corrosion on my battery terminals to maintain a good contact, but that's a nuisance, not a show stopper.

So, I've done the normal maintenance bits. I replaced that nasty orange Dex-Cool garbage with standard anti-freeze at 70K. I've replaced all the oil cooler lines because of the crappy aluminum fittings that swell and contract with the temp differences, thereby causing leaks. Prior to putting my new ones on, I made sure to cover the fitting joints in RTV to prevent any new leaks. My mass air-flow sensor went out at 55K and was replaced when I was deployed. Water pump went out at 83K, but that's normal. After replacing that, I forgot to secure the fan guard and it hit the fan blade, so I had to replace that too. No tranny, bearing or ball joint trouble, and my seat recliner handles are still intact - knock on wood. I missed the factory recall on the multi-function switch since I've been stationed overseas, so I bought one ($175) and replaced it myself. Good luck with the driver's side middle spark plug if you don't have either a) a special GM tool to get it out or b) you remove the steering linkage to get at it. I left it in there and replaced the other 5 plugs, its happy and so am I.

I'm currently fighting the 'dancing fuel gauge'. I replaced the pump assembly last week, but I think I jarred it on install, because its dancing again. Wee. I'll practice my Google'd repair how-to on the old pump and see if it works. A rear defroster connection came off, which I get to either re-solder or glue on with conductive epoxy. I replaced the driver's side hinge pins, but can't get the springs back in - again GM makes a special tool for this <shakes fist>.

I have a weird water problem, whereby water seems to collect in the front, driver's side floorboard. I have no idea where this is coming from, and continue to search for the cause.

Now, occasionally after starting, the truck will run like complete garbage, shaking and stuttering, throw a check engine light, and then be completely normal after I shut it off and restart it. Kind of creepy and its making me nervous. So its been a love/hate thing with this truck. She's got 93K on the clock currently and I just need it last two more years before I sell it to somebody for a song and let them deal with it. Will I ever buy a GM product again? Not a chance, its Japanese imports from here on out. I've had two Hondas both with over 150K on them and they ran like tops. Nissan and Toyotas are the same. I've had enough of the big, clunky, cumbersome, American push-rod engines. God bless all of you who love them and drive them, but I'm tired of working on mine because of breakdowns. Just my.02.

OK, I own a 2000 Blazer and I'm not having the fuel gauge problem YET. I purchased it about 2 years ago and I now have 82,000 Miles on it and I'm having some trouble with it.. If I let it idle for 10 minutes or so, when I get in and go, it stalls..dead...??? Also, the check engine light is on and has been on for a while now and when I've been driving for about 15 minutes or so, I get what I'm guessing is engine heat coming in from above the pedals on both driver and passenger sides. nobody seems to know what the problem is!!??? I have replaced fuel pump, fuel pump relay, battery, and fuel filter.. is there anyone that has the same problem or can tell me what to check next???

- stumped kid in FL.

About a month ago, I purchased a 2000 Chevy Blazer LT. After giving it a tune-up and changing the fuel filter (and a few other things) mine runs great!

I now have only two issues. (1) If the car is on, when I press the power locks to lock, the driver's lock immediately unlocks itself. The security light also stays on, even after the alarm is off. (2) The dome lights will not go out, even when all the doors are shut. I have to use the "dome override" button to turn them off while I'm driving or leaving the vehicle as they will not go off by themselves.

If anyone has any helpful information, I appreciate your help.

Stupid Kid

My 2000 blazer has just started with the stalling problem or rough idle while I am at a light or stopped. My friend is a mechanic and we have ruled out it to either being a vacum problem from the brake boaster or a tune-up. I have a feeling it might be a vacum problem though. Just behind your brake reserve is a large black looking object that is the brake boaster (from what I am told) it maintains a vacum in the engine at low idle. There is a hose coming out of it runing to the main mainifold intake side of the engine. Commonly the hose breaks down or gets pin holes in it. just replace it from what I am told. I haven't done so yet, but after I do and have the time I will let you know what happened. also a tune up wouldn't hurt new plugs wires distrubotor cap and rotor.

A Sailor.

I'm the original owner of 1997 Blazer 2 door 4 WD, and I've had apparently very good luck. The vehicle has 103,000 miles. The gas gauge sending unit went at 70,000, the windshield wiper motor at 90,000, the alternator at 100,000. Other than tires, brakes pads and rotors, and usual maintenance, I've had no other expenses. It probably is time for new ball joints and new idler arm.

I agree with many people posting here that ball joints and electrical problems shouldn't be happening at 40,000 miles. But as a few others have pointed out, many people don't do proper maintenance, and a few others are just unlucky. I'm not sure it's quite correct to blame GM for building cars that sometimes break down. I pass a Toyota dealer each day, and it's service bays are always full, and certainly not all those cars are just getting oil changes.

That said though, there is a noticeable change in "sturdiness" between my 1997 Blazer and my sister's 1999. Those people looking to buy used Blazers might check out the older models as well.

I too have a 1997 Chevy Blazer just turning 185,000 miles, has been the best truck I have ever owned. The only problems I have had are oil lines, a rear wheel bearing, idler arm, and one upper ball joint. I maintain my truck as we all should rather than passing the buck on to the manufacturer. I will continue to enjoy my truck and wait scared for the fuel pump to leave me stranded on the coldest day of the year.

Hi,

I own a 2000 ZR2 Blazer 2D and have since new (9/99) and here are my thoughts:

The truck is currently in the shop.

The transmission has developed and issue where it won't shift into fourth gear until it's been driven at highway speeds for a few minutes, whether the engine was prewarmed or not. I had it flushed at a GMC dealership, but they only did the cooling line flush, they didn't change the filter. So, now I'm having the pan pulled and the filter changed. I'm trying to preempt the transmission problems I've heard about.

While it's there, I'm having them estimate repairs to the heater. The temperature control quit working a while back and won't switch to either hot or cold. I don't think it's the heater core, I think it's the control behind the dash. It was "hissing" for a while before it failed (vacuum leak).

As for other problems, I've had the push-button 4wd/2wd control (solenoid) replaced while it was under warranty.

The good part:

Now let's talk about the "front end" (chassis). The parts making up the front-end on this truck are weak at best. The ball joints began failing on it immediately after I bought it. I struggled with two different dealerships to get them repaired with no success. This is while it was under warranty. At some point, they even admitted they were bad, but said they were "within tolerances" and then refused to replace them, even after I pointed out the problem and the obvious safety issue. So, I got an attorney and sued GM. I got $5000 back of the $25000 purchase price plus legal fees and had the ball joints repaired.

This was the last time I'll buy a brand-new vehicle of any kind. The main reason I did it was for the warranty and I had to sue to get that enforced. From now on, all my cars will be bought a year or two old.

BTW, this Blazer hasn't been driven that much. As of 1/29/07, it has only 48,000 miles on it.

I have owned a 2000 4wd/4d Blazer for 4 years. When I bought the truck it had 46,000 miles. Now it has 100,108. I am on my second set of tires, my second fuel pump, third battery, second alternator and second set of headlights. It's in the shop right now because either the fuel pump regulator or the spider injection (?) needs to be replaced. I do not know what the spider injection is and I was hoping someone might be able to fill me in. Also, when driving straight or turning left there seems to be a loud "rubbing" noise. When I turn right the noise goes away. Any ideas?

In answer to the last comment (placed 10:17 am, Jan 30th) the rubbing noise sounds indicative of a failing wheel bearing. If the noise is worse turning left, and disappears turning right, it sounds like the R/H front bearing is giving up the ghost. The noise gets worse/disappears relative to the cornering forces being placed on that wheel, and hence the bearing. Get this replaced sooner rather than later, it's generally not too big a job on most modern vehicles, and while you're at it, you may as well do the L/H too. If the bearings are the same age, eg originals, the L/H probably won't be too far behind. It'll save your vehicle being off the road again too.

I just purchased a 2000 blazer, 2 doors, and 4 wheel drive. After my test drive, I told the dealer about the fuel gauge, the door locks, and a few other things I found were not working correctly. All items were noted, and fixed before I took possession of the vehicle.

One thing that was explained to me about the fuel gauge: I was told that an additive that was used to the gas in 2000/2001 was the cause of most of these fuel pumps and gages not working correctly. The unit that controls all of this is inside the fuel tank. The fuel companies no longer use the same level of additives, and this should not re-occur.

I purchased the vehicle with a 2 year 40,000 km warranty and I'm glad I did. I can see by the number of expensive problems that I just might get my money's worth out of the warranty.

Thank you to all of you who took the time to explain about the problems you have had with your vehicles. This makes paying for that warranty much less painful.

Hi, we too share in this misery of ownership in a 2000 Blazer LT 4x4. We purchased this vehicle for my wife from a dealer as a used car in late ’03 with 28k miles. Was told it belonged to the mother of the service manager… It now has only 50k and here is the short list of repairs it’s had done:

4x4 did not engage @29k – dealer fixed for free, distributor, starter, battery, alternator, at 36k it was the fuel injection system ($1200), it cost $100 to change one spark plug (steering column in way) fuel pump\sending unit (gas gauge stopped working), door hinge bushings (front doors sagging), front window electric motor, driver seat heater stopped working –traced it to inside the seat, Now the 4x4 will not engage again, push the button and it just blinks….unreal.

I’m a backyard mechanic and realize things wear and don’t last forever, but come on…. Isn’t GM using 6 sigma quality or has GM opened the tolerance so they can claim the process is 6 sigma capable?

I also had a ’92 s-10 blazer that keep me in a part time mechanic role for years, (i.e. motor @ 55k) but that’s another story…I say had because I recently dumped it a bought a 2006 Toy 4runner, what a truck! Don’t look now GM, but Toyota is destined to be king.