2004 Chevrolet Epica LS 2.5 from North America
I just recently bought my Chev Epica. I feel I made a mistake. First of all the dealers don't want to deal with their own headache. I believe it is in the wiring harness. Little story here:
I bought this car for $500 dollars. Owners before bought this car in July 2016. They paid $2000 for this car and soaked another $3500 dollars into this car to pass the E test alone.
I drove this car for 2 months and it quit. 4 mechanics later the car sat tore apart. It took me 15 minutes to get the car running. It would whirl over and act like it wanted to start, but didn't. It was the ECM fuse in the engine fuse box and some gas. Started right up. I took the car to the garage after sitting for 3 months with the engine light off. It passes with ease. Both the Safety and E test. Pulling the car out of the garage, the engine light came on. The car runs great otherwise.
The last couple months it drives great other than the transmission is jumping. Out of the blue it quits and won't stay running. I investigated further into the engine, under the big plastic cover. To be honest I don't know how it runs. Little did I know #2 ignition coil's not even hooked up, wire coatings are all cracked and brittle, clip was cut off. Nor were any of them fastened down. #4 coil died. So this is why the car suddenly ran like crap. I was down two cylinders. Looking under all the tape and rubber on the wires to find deep in the harness the wires coating are very brittle and are cracked exposed wires. In some cases they are touching each other. Took 4 days to rewire the ignition coils. Whoever worked on it previous to me rewired some in the wrong slots. The light was off for a bit, now it's on again and the codes are lean bank 1 and 2 PO171, PO174, and Mass or Volume air flow circuit range/Performance PO101. Not bad from having 18 codes. The only thing left to change for those codes are the gas cap and fuel filter.
Would you buy another car from this manufacturer? No
Review Date: 3rd March, 2017