1999 Chevrolet Silverado LS from North America - Comments

9/12/05 - Same Deal for me. I own a 1999 Silverado with 69500 miles. Bought the truck new 12/98. ABS went out the other day, not only several hundred dollars to fix, but the inconvenience of being without a vehicle until it's fixed.

Decided, like most people, to pull the fuse, breakout the ABS & Brake light and drive until GM gets enough complains about this or enough backbone to accept responsibility for these inferior products and make things right. People buy GM products thinking they are getting a quality product, but instead they get a quantity product. The more you sell, the more profit you make.

My GMC 2001 Yukon has had the same ABS Module failure at <50,000 miles. I called GMC... no luck on a recall. They just don't care. Best thing to do is NOT buy another GMC. I am going to try one of the ABS repair guys. Hopefully they are really able to fix them as they say.

I also have a 99 Chevy Silverado that the ABS went out on at 40,000 miles. We pulled the fuse. There's no way that will I pay the extra grand to fix it after what I payed for the truck itself. There is a definite need for a recall. Now the fuel pump is shot and having to be repaired.

I have a 1999 Silverado 2500 LS extended cab 4x4 with a 6.0 V8. Problem I am having is a vibration from the front end just before coming to a stop and as soon as I take off. Also a popping from the steering wheel when turning. Anyone else had these problems? Any ideas?

My chevy silverado ran out of gas. It will not stay cranked. I took it to the dealer and they replaced the air filter, wires and spark plugs. It's still not running. What could be the problem?

I too own a 1999 Silverado that had an ABS module failure. After talking with my local dealer, who wanted $1200 to fix the problem, I decided that there must be a cheaper route. Since the 2000 model has had not ABS problems, I purchased a used module/pump assembly from a 2000 Silverado at a local auto salvage dealer (for $150), and changed it myself. Most of the time the problem is only the module, that is the plastic part attached to the pump. This can be changed by anyone with average mechanical skills in less that an hour.

I have a 2001 Yukon. The EBC module died at 60000 miles, I fought hard and go GM to put it in at cost plus labor. It died again at 112000 miles. The common point is the traction control would go offline while driving in the rain 60% of the time. Once you turn off the engine, the computer would reset so the dealer claimed they could not see anything in the computer log. This has been since 20000 miles. It is my contention that the traction control is the entire cause of the EBC module problem since they are controlled by the same EBC module. So far GM will not listen at any level, from dealer on up. I sent a complaint to the NHTSA, though I expect nothing here. So I could care less if GM goes bankrupt. They will never get another purchase from me, new or used.

2000 Silverado. Just bought it 3 months ago with 166k miles. Just two days ago my ABS light came on, but I don't have any humming noise yet. I used my OBD II code reader to see if there was a code, but nothing. For a brief moment my other brake light cam on, but it has gone away for now. Is this the preceding event to the control module going bad? I noticed most of the comments were from 99 models was it fixed for 2000? I think ABS was just about the biggest waist of time invention ever. Could I have an unrelated problem?

Ssherritt@nergecousa.com.

Hi, I also have a 1999 Chevy Silver ado Step side. I haven't had to much trouble with this truck considering I now have 155,450 miles on it.

I was fortunate enough to have the ABS light fixed under warranty just shy of my 60,000 mile warranty. They told me if it wasn't for the warranty, it would be $1000 for the chip and labor.

Since the warranty has ran out, I have replaced both drivers and passenger side window regulators, and replaced a fuel pump.

I am now experiencing the "SERVICE 4WD" light coming on. When the light is on it will not switch into 4WD. When it is not on, I can switch to 4WD. Does anyone know how to fix this problem? Is this a problem that can be fixed by a basic skilled mechanic or will GM get more of my money?

Thanks

Crystal

Twig2604@aol.com

WOW! I wasn't aware that this was such a huge problem. My 99 Silverado is at 118k miles and my ABS and my Brake Lights both come on after I have drove a few miles, but I do not have the motor running on after I turn the truck off. The next time I drive it the lights stay off until I've driven a few miles and the they come back on. The brakes seem to perform correctly, even on wet roads. does this sound like the module needs to be replaced as well??

Thanks!

rickrose1965@yahoo.com.

I'm having the same problem with my ABS. I went to the dealership today to setup an appointment for the ABS recall GM put out this year, thinking that my ABS problems would soon be over. They said that they are going to clean the corrosion off the wheel speed sensor, but it won't fix the problem with the ABS motor turning on and continually running. They said they could fix that problem for about $800.00. So the fuse will have to stay out. I'm going to try to hold out and see if GM takes responsibility for this. These dealerships have got to be getting a lot of complaints about this. Are the dealerships not reporting this to GM or is GM just ignoring the problem? I'm not sure why they would fix one safety issue with the ABS and not another. It doesn't make sense. Everyone I know with the same truck (silverado or sierra) is having the same problem.

I too have a black 1999 Silverado Ext. Cab LS 4WD Z71 in TX. I have all the problems listed here.

- Air leaks from rear windows unless air re-circulate is on. I'm about to silicone them shut, since they are awkward and worthless to use... they should have been power windows like the fronts instead of Chevette style pop-outs.

- ABS went at 110K, pulled the fuse.

- E-brake failed, replaced at 110K ($700) now they are pre-worn and will not engage.

- Gauges zero and computer resets, seconds later, back to normal and stealership has no clue why.

- Service 4WD light appears, replaced switch module.

- Security light stays on while driving until the gauges zero and reboot with the seatbelt light flashing for a moment.

-Seatbelt light comes on at random and will go off if I unclick and re-fasten seatbelt.

- Radio started going off for a few minutes or seconds at around 130k sometime it will stay off till the next day.

- Started overheating at 149k miles and had to replace to a fan unit ($450) upgraded to electric.

- Heater core inlet (plastic?) busted for no reason on an 80 degree day when getting on the highway (still not replaced).

- Rear end locked up, shattered and broke tail shaft in transmission at 150k ($4,000). The bolt that hold the main pin came loose.

- Clunking sound in rear when taking off from a stop.

- Clunking under motor/trans when shifting under hard acceleration.

- morning start ticking.

- Plastic bezel on tailgate disappeared along with the plastic clip to allow tailgate to operate steel shafts/pins.

- Window regulator was going down one day and I heard Ghezghhhhht and the cable drive system inside went haywire. $120 to replace. now both windows are slow as ever.

- Light dim when anything comes on and off. The blinkers even dim the headlights slightly, had 140a alternator tested fine, battery tested fine, but acts like a constant drain and will occasionally shut off the radio if running lights, wipers, brake lights and blinkers... forget about rolling a window up too... Weak. The stealer says everything is working fine, now bend over and that will be $180 please.

- Tranny just went out again at 167k ($2,000) immediately after the 1 year 12k mile mark. The main shaft was worn where it met the drum and caused pressure loss.

- Starting to vibrate under load in overdrive, like going up a hill on the highway.

I get 14.2 to 14.7 MPG, no matter if I drive easy and the speed limit or flooring it on every take off or doing 100+ on the highway for 3 hours... 14.2mpg :)

Too expensive to drive and too cheap to buy another truck, so I'm buying a Harley and a rain suit.

I'll never buy another Chevy Truck... Like a Rock is it? They must have dropped it, cause it's a lot like gravel or junk.

I have a 99 Chev Z-71...Have had problems since the git go 10,000 miles, 4wd module went out...15000 miles ABS went out. Also, ever since 10000 miles I am going through fuel filters every 500 miles, check engine soon light comes on, gas mileage down to 9mpg black smokes blows out the exhausr. Of course the stealer won't work on it, never has, have to drive another 100 miles to get it worked on. Dropped the fuel tank, cleaned new filter new injectors...350 miles later, same deal. Anybody have any clue whats wrong with it? Please help, or maybe I will just put a stick of dynamite in it and blow it to smithereens.

This is the first brand new rig I have ever owned, and now I wish I never bought it.

Redneck_ut@yahoo.com.

I have a 99 Chevy silverado I bought used back in 2004 with 56000 miles already on it. Around 80000 miles the ABS went out and tranny shifts harder than my old 3/4 ton. Just had 4 new rotors put on due to stock rotors warping. Pumpkin cap on rear end won't quit leaking, but as for the gas mileage still gets 18 mpg on highway. Has anyone else had tranny problems along with problems in 4 high and 4 low?

My ABS also went out a week after the warranty expired. Same as all the rest humming had to pull the fuse. I pulled the black plastic housing off of the top of the pump. It is held on by torx screws which are a little difficult to get too, also the heads were filled with rust which needed to be pecked out before the torx bit would fit into the head of the screw. The plastic is screwed to an aluminum casting and also glued along the seam. I used a knife to cut through the glue. I unsoldered the circuit board which has 25 to 30 solder joints. The FET, black, is about 3/8 of an inch square and 1/8 inch thick soldered to the board in three places. Very poor design to expect a FET this Size to control the amperage expected to run the ABS pump. Realizing this I piggy backed two FETS together, soldered them to the board. Soldered the board, glued back together, reinstalled all screws. End result fixed for less than $5.00. Dealer wanted $1200.

Next problem hard starting at times, poor gas mileage, sluggishness. Check the fuel pressure regulator, on the right side of the engine, above and about the middle of the valve cover you will see a round device about 1 inch in diameter between two pieces of 1/8 black hose. Pull the bottom hose off the regulator nipple if gas drips out the regulator is bad. You can buy a new one at Chevy for $100 or one from Napa for $50 or less. In any case your problem is solved in less than 1 minute. By the way a buddy took his to Chevy and they charged him $600 to repair. GM might be going broke, perhaps their Stealer ships have a lot to do with it.