1st May 2009, 14:11
Please keep us updated as to what you find... I thought the input output sensor was the same part?
Where is the throttle sensor located, and did you install it yourself, and how hard was it, if you don't mind me asking.
I am in a nearly identical spot as you in terms of years and miles, so any info is appreciated.
30th May 2009, 22:23
My 99 Chrysler 300 156000 miles. Has been having loads of issues lately. I'm upset because I love this car. First one of the fans on the fan assembly to the rad locked up. Got one at dealer $130, problem solved, then the power steering pump failed. Got OEM off ebay 60, problem solved. Tranny seized up, rebuild - $1,664.00. And now tonight the alarm quit working. GRRRRRR. I hate throwing money at it, but I love it so much. It's a 99 what do you expect. Looks brand new though. I take care of my baby hahahha. "*sigh* dang issues.
8th Sep 2009, 16:39
I just bought a 1999 300M, car is like new. Runs strong and shifts great, but while sitting at a traffic light it seems to idle rough. Anybody have any idea what it could be?
3rd Oct 2009, 13:27
My 99 300m also idles rough - been doing that for 4 years now.
I just had a new starter put in a week ago, the part was 119 new and my auto guys charged me 100 to put it in. Could Chrysler find a tighter spot to put the starter in? Why do they make it so difficult...
Anyway it has been running really good lately --- fingers crossed... 138,000 miles.
Does or has anyone put 225/65/17 sized tires on? I am running 225/45/17...Hate em!! Stock I think is 55/17, but wondering if 65/17 would fit?
7th Dec 2009, 19:18
I too have a 1999 Chrysler 300M (had to buy because of Katrina destroying my other car), and it is probably the best driving car I've owned.
Last week on a rather frigid morning (for Baton Rouge), the car seemed to brake in the middle of the road when I took my foot of the accelerator. It did it again five minutes later and was fine after that. But, Saturday when my wife was leaving the house, the car backed up like normal and then refused to move. I put the trans in the neutral position to push the car forward and it did not budge. It took 10 minutes. for it to continue lurching forward, each time acting as if the brakes had been applied. Now the car will not move at all. Anyone ever hear of this, or had this happen to them before?
17th Dec 2009, 16:41
Seems strange that it just starting happening. I would have said to check that the proper brake pads are being used, but since they are not new, sort of rules that out. Um I have heard of brake booster plungers being out of adjustment... I did a search on "brakes sticking" and found the article.
Not sure if any of this helps, but I am typing out loud, please let us know if you find the answer. Thank you and good luck.
10th Jan 2010, 21:54
My 1999 Chrysler 300M just turned 165K. Love love love my car!
Here is my problem. It just started dieing (driving or in park). After it dies, sometimes it starts right up, but other times it could take up to 10 minutes. There have been a couple times that it has died going down the HWY at 55 MPH, then all of a sudden starts back up (without having to pull, to the side of the road).
Recently, at stop lights/signs I keep a heavy foot on the brakes and the other on the gas just in case it thinks it's going to die. Anybody have any ideas what this might be all about???
By the way, I turned the key over three (3) times and it read P 1684. No, the battery has not been disconnected lately!
12th Feb 2010, 12:35
I've owned a 2000 Chrysler 300m since 2001. For about a month, on and off, the rear brake lights remain on after the car is turned off, even if I take out the fuse that corresponds to the brake lights.
Every now and then, the car refuses to start, even when I've been driving it for an hour and turn it off for about 15 minutes.
If I obtain a battery boost, it will start... sometimes driving it for a half hour seems to allow it to work fine for a week or two; then, without warning, on certain days the car will not start, or WILL start with a charge, but the rear lights will remain on when I turn the car off. What gives?
11th Mar 2010, 12:37
To: 10th Jan 2010, 21:54.
My 1999 300M was doing the same thing. Same error code. I changed the Cam Sensor and Crank Shaft Sensor, both parts totaled around $100. I put one of the parts in myself, can't remember which one, but it was on top of the motor, not the one below by the starter. Anyway, one I did myself and the other one a mechanic guy did for $50. Car has not died since.
It was doing exactly what you described, I never had my car die on the interstate going 55 though. But around town and at stop lights, just as you described. 140 k miles and since I had to replace my starter as well. I would not recommend trying that yourself, unless you're really mechanically inclined, my mechanic guy charged me $100 labor for that, just FYI. Let me know if this fixes your problem.
28th Jul 2010, 12:42
I recently bought a used 2000 300M with 90,000 miles. I thought I was a lucky girl to own such a great car, until last month when it wouldn't start.
There was no power to the car at all when I turned the key forward, about 20 minutes later the horn sounded briefly and I was able to start the car but then the dash lights blinked on and off, bright to dim like it was possessed.
The next day same thing, the following day though I wasn't so lucky; I couldn't get the car to start at all. It was towed to the dealership and they said there was nothing wrong with it, but I could try to change the battery.
I changed the battery and nothing has changed. I had a second opinion, the mechanic was able to put his computer on the car when the lights were flashing and it said there was something wrong with the battery connection, so the cables were replaced.
It's been over a month and nothing has been resolved - the lights flash, and sometimes it won't start.
Please help, I really don't have extra money to keep trying new things; and I'm afraid to drive it because I'm worried I'll be stranded somewhere!
28th Jul 2010, 16:43
Have a trusted mechanic test your alternator. The alternator should put out about 14 volts at 2500 RPM; if it's not putting out this amount, then it needs to be replaced.