10th Aug 2010, 09:05
Thank you for your input. I have had the alternator checked and it's fine. The light is still flickering and the car still won't start on occasion. I'm so frustrated with this car and more than one mechanic telling me they cannot find anything wrong with it.
8th Oct 2010, 15:49
I have a 1999 300 myself, and my fuel gauge is not working. I turn it off and the gauge reads empty, and turn the car on, and it reads full when it's not; what could it be? My gauges were going up and down like crazy, all of them; speedometer, temp, fuel lights flickering. I checked the fuse box, and behind the fuse box you have a lot of connectors, and some were loose. Pushed them in very tight; that fixed the problem.
30th Nov 2010, 18:19
If the car won't start, try having the crank shaft sensor checked. That was the problem on my 99 Chrysler 300m.
23rd Apr 2011, 20:49
I have a 300m for last 2 years. Drove it 1 month, and the car went crazy with gauges. I have changed the cam sensor, battery, BCM.. you name it, I have changed it, still have crazy gauges. When they drop, the car won't start, ha also water pump, belt tensioner.
I WILL NEVER BUY CHRYSLER AGAIN.
23rd May 2011, 04:11
I had a 2001 Concorde LXI that I bought with the intentions of making small repairs here and there until the transmission blew on me on the highway like I've never seen before. I replaced the filter and trans oil to no avail. A repair shop wanted $1500-2000 to have it repaired but it wasn't worth the trouble and expense. I just took the thing to a scrap yard and had the crane operator have some fun with the car, at least I got some money back.
As someone else said and also as I was told by a friend who is an Infinity engineer, they (Chrysler) make beautiful designs, but are awful unreliable cars. Government motors for sure.
18th Aug 2011, 18:38
Check all your grounds and make sure they are tight.. especially the battery ground at the negative jump post, and battery itself.
21st Sep 2011, 21:40
My 2000 Chrysler 300m is doing the exact same thing. The mechanic that has it right now thinks that it is something to do with the keys or alarm system. Did you find a fix for yours? You can email me at firstname.lastname@example.org and I will keep you posted on what I find out. I really like this car & hope it's not anything major.
10th Nov 2011, 13:35
It's underneath the alternator, it's easier to get at from underneath the car, but that still needs to come off.
14th Jan 2012, 03:41
I have a 1999 300M. It had the same problem; the brake lights would not turn off, even when the car was off. It's just a plastic switch that goes in the back of the brake pedal. Less than $20. Easy to install. The switch has like a little piston that goes in and out. Just make sure you don't push the piston in all the way with your hand. If you do, it will not work. The piston only supposed to go in as far as your brake pedal goes. Once you plug in the switch, it's a square shape, you line it up and turn it clockwise to lock it in place. Slowly release the brake pedal so it can calibrate the new switch.
27th Mar 2012, 16:46
2003 Chrysler 300M.
Sitting at a stop light, the car would then jump into low gear, then die. Happens about 10% of the time.
Have been putting up with this for a long time. Finally changed the output sensor; rear of the input sensor. Wow, I'm happy it's fixed! Very hard to get to and tighten; no room.. Used a faucet stem socket that is not round, so you can tighten it with your hand.. Also, there is a hole in this type of socket to put a small screwdriver in to get that final turn snug tight... Good luck!
Going to change the front input sensor soon, that one is even worse; less room! Will let you know.
Oh yeah, 1 / 1/32 faucet socket to get the grip..
1st Aug 2012, 20:32
Please somebody HELP ME!
I have a 99 Chrysler 300M, and I bought it used. The previous owner told me he had rebuilt the motor. Well I drove the car from Texas to Mississippi, and as soon as we made it to our destination, the car started making a loud ticking noise after the oil was checked and drained, because it had qt and 1/2 over. It died after that, and started again after a couple of hours and a boost. I was told it was the rods, and I would need a new engine because of the knocking noise. This happened back in April 2012.
It will still crank after a boost, and has been moved around the yard several times, but I'm scared to go any further. Could something else be wrong, or is it definitely the rods and I need a new engine?
6th Aug 2012, 14:08
When this happens with my 2002, I move the dimmer thumb wheel and the flickering lights go away. This has been happening ever since I owned the car (6 years).
23rd Nov 2012, 07:56
You do not have to remove the starter, it's on passenger side and very easy to change.
Thanks, John Gillman, Williamson WV.
25th Aug 2014, 14:50
I know this is a long time after the original post, but I have a 2004 300M and had the same problem. Turned out to be the brake switch that the brake pedal controls was going bad. Had the switch replaced and haven't had a single problem since.
30th Sep 2014, 20:36
I am having same issue with my 1999 300M.
I'm unable to start it until the shifter is moved back and forth several times. Never consistent.
Any ideas for a fix?
18th Nov 2014, 17:44
You don't have to go under the car, just open up your hood; the hose coming out of your engine, look to the right of it, it's black and it has only one screw. Real easy, less than 15 minutes to change.