Me again, Doc, I am the guy gave his 98 Cirrus to daughter, no problems for 10 years till she went to South Dakota for school.
Recap/update, first no start dealer replaced battery, no faults, no reason found.
Next "No Bus", this time the dealer could not replicate, said it had a bad EGR valve, replaced that, ran two weeks, would not start, would turn over, but would not fire off.
They sent mechanic and service writer out, car flooded, no faults, said needed a new idle air valve, that was 3-4 weeks ago, so far so good.
I have read all the notes, and I'm not sure what the common denominator is, but I accept the fact the car is 11 years old and parts will start to fail, I just question the logical method the dealer does not use when diagnosing.
I am holding my breath for another call, or hoping I can get it home to Maryland this summer, where my friend is the Service Manager at the Chrysler dealer and I trust him explicitly. Good luck to all.
I did talk to my mechanic he has had two similar series of events, 1) after an intermittent issue found a faulty connection on back of the instrument panel, replaced cluster and it went away, and the other 2) was an issue with the fuse box, which someone else noted above, hope that helps you know where to look, I will keep you posted.
I am having the same problems: the oil light flickering in idle, no bus, check engine light, etc. Now, my car will not start at all. I was told that my repairs would be in excess of $1700. I have a 1999 Cirrus with 89000 miles. I wrote a complaint about this situation to the National Transportation Safety Administration and inquired as to why there has been no recalls on this. I was informed that because they have not received many complaints, that these are isolated situations. When I checked their website, I only found 75 complaints. So please, go to the following website and list your complaint: www.nhtsa.gov.
You will need to have your mileage and VIN number. I am going to write a letter to Chrysler, and my next step is consulting with an attorney. Something needs to be done before someone gets killed!!!
If you want to keep your 1998 Chrysler's Cirrus, I suggest that you subscribe to an on-line repair shop repair manual.
Also, buy a scan tool. The manual will save you money. For instance, it will state that some diagnostic codes will not be recorded, unless they occur within a certain speed-range. The information provided is necessary, even if you don't do your own work. Mid 1980 Chrysler Fifth Avenue cars had a lean-burn system that was also very costly to maintain. And very friendly to the paid mechanic. Evidently, the same Chrysler engineers were still in the Chrysler's employ during the 1990's. A rational person will realize that for the most part, modern day cars require less repairs, unless, planned???
Just purchased a 98 Cirrus with only 88,000 miles on it for my "handicapped" brother. Boy... wished I had seen this site before we purchased it. I almost "Didn't" let my husband purchase this vehicle for the problems I have had with Chrysler's products in the past...but...same start stall... now NO start... He had to "walk" 3 miles to home.. Being handicapped..because the car stalled and now won't start... He has had the car only 1 month... when we test drove it.. for at least 20 miles.. took it had it put on computer.. no defects were found..UGH..thought we were getting a deal... we got it alright... right in the "hiney".
The Cirrus is simply... a poorly designed car, the people who designed it should be kicked in the ass. I mean logically the design of the engine... heck just the whole car does not make sense...
I have serious electrical problems; nothing in-cab works... headlamps, radio, A/C... which has a mind of its own.
One time I was jump starting the car; bad battery and sparks shot out the A/C vents when I turned the key to the on position.
More minor repairs keep popping up, have no engine problems, but the electricals are all screwed up.
Have a 95 Cirrus LXI, purchased used. The car ran fine, till lately. The car stutters when taking off from a stand still. Thought it was the transmission, did a oil and filter change, (Oil had the burnt smell). Helped some, but now it appears that the motor is stumbling.
Found a lot of used engine sensors in the trunk, Checked all electrical connections and they appear good. Scan tool is no help (Shows no link, key on or engine running) and no MIL. Checked all fuses, and have a tech manual, still cannot figure it out.
No stalling problem yet...
I have a 1999 Cirrus LXi with 131k and have experienced most all of the symptoms previously described here... fuel line restrictions, tons of oil in spark plug tubes, erratic radio volume, factory alarm problems, intermittent cutting out with delayed or no restart, no bus, etc.
Like a lot of you, I read everything I could about this online and wasn't sure where to start. While changing out the valve cover gaskets and tube seals, I thought I would change out the Crankshaft Position Sensor as I had a little better access. Presto! It has been a week and the No Bus is gone, and the car starts every time! Good luck people!
I have a 1998 Chrysler Cirrus Lxi, they said my car was misfiring on cylinders 4&5. So I changed the spark plugs and wires, it still skips really bad. So now I am gonna try changing the distributor cap and rotor, hopefully that will correct the problem. The check engine light has stayed on and some times it flickers on and off. It sputters when idling and when taking off and feels like it wants to stall. Any suggestions that I should do if the distributor cap and rotor don't work?...
I "inherited" my 1999 Cirrus from my mother in law about two years ago. Car currently has 100K.
I've had to replace the alternator (did that myself).
Transmission pan gasket had to be replaced by dealer.
An inaccessable transmission gasket had to be replaced by the dealer (after one year, the transmission has now begun to leak again).
I've had to replace virtually every piece of the front suspension.
I have replaced the crankshaft sensor twice. If your car stops while driving for no apparent reason and then restarts, try replacing this sensor. It's difficult to locate and then access, but it can be done.
The car is currently in the driveway and will not start (engine is not turning over/no sounds or clicking). I replaced the starter and also the ignition switch and lock. Still won't start. I plan on trying the crankshaft sensor again, and then I guess I will have it towed to the repair shop.
Also I had a code read about a month ago, which indicated that it needs new plugs, wires, etc. The plugs on this thing are under the exhaust manifold! What a pain!
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