7th Jun 2011, 17:18
I'm grateful for this facility to discover other's comments on matters like this and (MOREso), field my OWN (Wherever they may end up from ME!) I write here, specifying:
I too have a '98 Cirrus (LXi, 2.5L V-6), and it's been giving me HELL; However a recent diagnostic, done by my local dealership, netted the response: 'The PCM simply won't 'TALK to us', (presumably, through their diagnostic machine'. So that's pretty much is where I sit now, with this car equipped with over three thousand dollars of equipment, (I could otherwise be making $60 per hour with, utterly dead!
This morning, I verified with a junk-yard, they're offering/have one (of the same 'Chrysler Part# (4606628AP)', I can buy for only $45!
(Instead of a NEW one, for $539($759 installed).
They 'agreed, to give me a written statement', the vehicle it came from, 'worked', before it was removed, so I'm VERY tempted to 'JUMP' on it, because I think I've tried about all ELSE! (3 fuel-pumps, a distributor, cam, crank-position sensors and MORE! It's driving me crazy!
Any suggestions guys, (as to whether I should 'try/buy junk', (or what/anything else)?
17th Jul 2011, 14:55
OK, after reading all of these comments, I am stumped where to start. I also have a 98 Cirrus, but mine has over 210,000 miles, and it just now is giving me issues with starting; it will crank over, but will not start... I have changed the fuel pump relay switch, checked the timing belt, which is still intact, spark plugs have been replaced, new PCV valve, new serpentine belt, new power steering belt, new compressor, new alternator, no check engine light whatsoever came on the day I was left stranded, and I have checked all vacuum hoses.
I never heard the fuel pump start up when it ran, so I am unsure if it starts up when I click the key over... anyone know what else I can try? I am limited on mobility since I have had multiple surgeries since September... any help would be greatly appreciated. Also if anyone knows of any way of figuring out if recalls have been performed on the car, that would also help... email is email@example.com. Please put vehicle on subject so I know what I am looking at. Thanks.
5th Aug 2011, 13:35
I just bought a Chrysler Cirrus 1998. I am having the stalling while driving problem. It has almost caused me to wreck. I have taken it to the dealership twice, and they replaced things... and it still didn't fix the problem... How is yours running.
13th Aug 2011, 17:36
It's the distributor. My shop has sold five of them in the last year or two, and they all came back said it cured the fix.
22nd Aug 2011, 18:55
What exactly was the car doing to diagnose a erratic distributor? What the car is doing for me, is it is erratic misfires at different times while idle and driving, and the miss fluctuates from minor to bad...
Then the other day, the tach flopped around and the car wanted to die. I floored it and it managed to run a sec longer. It seems when the tach goes haywire, it really wants to die, and it's hard to start thereafter. I was able to get it going about 4 times with it dying throughout, then it finally made it home the last time with me flooring it in the beginning, as the tach would go haywire...
11th Jan 2012, 10:49
Well when you get a car that's used, a tune up is required. Even getting the trans cleaned or flushed, it's the same thing with everything, it depends on how well you take care of the car. If you let things go, they get bad over time. So yeah, with this car I only had minor problems, just the regular things to fix, so my thinking is the car is good, if you take care of it.
1st Mar 2012, 12:47
Chryslers are very picky about voltage getting to the computer. Dirty battery terminals and cables will cause all the problems listed.
15th Mar 2012, 05:24
I have a 98 LXI, and it cuts off all the time. I designed and installed a whole new separate fuel system for the car, that shoots gas in the air intake. The car runs like new...
15th Mar 2012, 05:29
The Cirrus has a heating problem in the engine compartment problem. Solution:
Just over the right and left part over the plenum, install 2 medium sized hood scoops. That will bring in fresh cool air over the back side of the engine.
That grille on the car is not enough for the cooling of the engine compartment.
29th Aug 2012, 00:09
Mine was doing the same. Had it put on the computer by a mechanic. It is the cam sensor. The car will shut off and not turn on. Everyone else said the fuel pump and fuel filter. Will let you know after I replace this.
13th Dec 2012, 03:27
Everyone that has had the stalling issue, check the crank shaft sensor. My 98 Cirrus did the same thing, but only restarted twice before it would crank over and not start. The crank shaft sensor cost me around 300 installed, but the crank shaft sensor detects the movement of the crank shaft and will not let the motor start if it doesn't get the correct signal. Had mine replaced in August 2012, been running fine ever since, no problem whatsoever, and I have 134,000 on mine, so my advice is check the crank sensor. More than likely, that is everyone's issue with the stalling / not wanting to start.
28th Apr 2013, 15:31
I bought a 98 Cirrus LX about a year and a half ago at 112000 km. It wasn't until about a month ago that I started experiencing the same problems as everyone else... about 154000 km, stalls when coming to a stop or slowing down in stop-go traffic. Can't restart it right away as the engine turns over but doesn't start. Have to wait about 20-30 minutes to start the car. Is it only the crank shaft sensor that needs to be replaced to fix this problem? Some on this site suggest fixing the idle air valve. I'm also being told that the fuel pump needs to be fixed as well? Any advice would be appreciated!!
Arthur from Toronto.
10th Apr 2014, 03:09
Mine sat for 5 months because I couldn't figure it out. Trying to start, but no. Crankshaft position sensor. 70 bucks. Autozone. I did mine, and the car runs fine.
23rd Oct 2014, 00:30
I am still driving my 1998 Chrysler Cirus LXi. I have had many issues with it stalling while driving it. My solution is to not drive on highways or for any long distance. I only have 88,600+ miles on it because of being nervous driving it.
I have heavily invested in this car and have replaced all of the 'parts' mentioned preceding this comment. I cannot afford another car, thus I keep making repairs. The latest being the timing belt and water pump.
One really important thing I learned... when doing stop and go driving all the time, BEWARE. My accelerator cable frayed, and as I was test driving my car after a repair, I stepped on the gas and the car sped right up... YIKES / Scary. Fortunately I had the sense to look for a parking lot to my right, put it in neutral and then pulled over into it while turning off my ignition upon entering the lot. I was very fortunate.
That is about all I have to say for now... I wrote on this site years back. But as the TV says "The best used car out there is probably the one you are presently driving"... so I shall just continue using it only when necessary...
P.S. this car was bought new from a dealer.
18th Feb 2015, 22:50
You need to do a complete tune up on it: plugs wires and distributor cap.
What's happening is your plugs or wires are fouling out. I had this problem with my 2.5 engine Chrysler Cirrus; they need a complete tune up at 100,000 miles or less. You will see a big difference after that; it's running on about four cylinders right now.
Also if she just dies out one day, it's the distributor. Only use a Mitsubishi; the aftermarket ones do not last over 90 days. So spend the extra money now and have peace of mind later.
5th Sep 2015, 23:56
Did you try giving it a spritz of starting fluid into the air intake? If you have spark it will start for a moment, then you would know you have a fuel pump/fuel pressure problem. No starting even with starting fluid would indicate an ignition problem. Good luck.
9th Aug 2016, 15:55
Did you check the crank shaft sensor?
That normally kills the spark, and is one of the cheapest first try fixes.
28th Dec 2016, 20:07
I have a 1998 Chrysler Cirrus, that when I bought it, it didn't run. So I put a new distributor in it and got it running. The check engine light came on and it threw cam sensor code and crank sensor code. It would start fine and run till it got warm, then it would spit, sputter and shut off. Long story short, came to find out it was a short in the wire pigtail that plugs into the distributor. One day it was spitting and sputtering, so I raised the hood and wiggled the wires plugged into the distributor, and it started running fine.