6th Jan 2006, 19:24
I own a 98 Avenger. I had the same problem with the film on my headlights. I tried everything your best bet is to replace the whole light. Eventually the light output gets real bad and you could possibly fail inspection!
15th Jan 2006, 23:40
I think my 95 Avenger is about to fall apart. I have just about every problem mentioned on this forum. The first thing was BOTH door handles breaking off within 2 days of each other leaving me stranded so I had to get it towed.. (that was 50 dollars each to replace minus paint-I left them black) I have had the idling problem where it would idle high like I was flooring the gas although I had my foot on the break. It dies as soon as I start it when its cold unless I put my foot on the gas. It dies in the middle of the road when I'm turning in.. or when I'm backing out of a driveway. My alarm went crazy and the key quit working so I threw it away, but the other day my alarm just went off for the first time in months with no way to turn it off. The lights are horribly dim which caused me to hit a GREAT DANE! I'm scared to take it to the shop because I payed 3,000 for the car and more than 800 for the tires and would not like to spend any more money on it than I have to. I would never recommend this car even though it is VERY nice looking. I have had it for less than a year and I already HATE it! I would feel bad to sell it to anyone.
13th Mar 2006, 19:27
My 98 Avenger with 136K miles began stalling. It would cut off at every opportunity. I had the computer replaced at the dealership $800.00, the EGR Valve replaced $181.00 and still the problem persisted. I then installed a crankshaft position sensor that I purchased at advance auto for $60.00 bucks and it now runs great. Problem resolved. I learned about the crankshaft sensor from this site, so thanx a billion.
13th Apr 2006, 00:01
I purchased the infamous '05 avenger es less than a week ago. Two days later the stalling began. Actually, it's more like complete quitting that stalling. First time, I was driving down the road, it quit, it cranked right back up. The second time was minutes later and it would not crank for 5 minutes. The last time I rode over some railroad tracks and it took about 15 minutes for it to start. Being married to a mechanic and raised by one I felt it was electrical (until I got on this site). I took it to a repair shop (so hubby wouldn't have to fool with it) and they have duplicated the problem, but cannot find the source of the problem. They say they think it's the fuel pump. I disagree because you can hear the fuel pump "hum" when you turn the key.
Transmission issues also come in to play. When I purchased it I knew something was wrong with the transmission, but I found one really cheap so I figured it was no big deal to replace if need be. The transmission does not slip, it does not shift hard, but it flutters (I say jumps or lurches a few times) in and out of 2nd gear. Have y'all dealt with this?
I regret sending it to the repair shop now and I wish I had just called and ordered new sensors for the entire car.
13th Apr 2006, 10:19
YOu are married to a mechanic and the daughter of a mechanic and you still bought an unreliable Chrysler?
13th Apr 2006, 22:05
My daddy wouldn't own it unless it was a dodge; therefore, I really really knew better and still did it anyway.
9th May 2006, 16:10
I have the car, and obviously, the stalling too. It became a problem in winter, and seems to be loosely related to cold temperatures. My father and I thought it was the fuel pump at first, but I just got back from the garage, where the mechanic says it's a leaking head gasket causing it, allowing oxygen and coolant in places they shouldn't be.
This may be the case, so I'm going to get some block seal stuff and put it in the antifreeze. I am also going to do the only things people here are saying have WORKED for the problem: replace the idle air control valve, and crankshaft position sensor.
When it sticks in gear and won't shift, while accelerating, it's usually because you've gunned it too hard, and can be remedied by simply shifting to neutral and then back to drive.
This is a good car, and I hope we can figure out how to fix all of our problems. I'll repost the results of my "experiment".
28th Jun 2006, 18:46
Just encountered a 97 Dodge Avenger ES 2.5L with the infamous stalling problem. I had run into this problem in a 99 Buick last winter, and after 6 weeks of poking around off and on, I found that the fuel pump actually shut off about 1.5 seconds before the car stalled. Went with my gut feeling on the Dodge and left it running in the garage lot until it stalled. Found no fuel pressure at the fuel rail just after the stall. Replaced the pump, cleaned the tank and it hasn't stalled since.
Not saying that EVERY Avenger that stalls has an intermittently failing fuel pump, but this fix worked for ME.
6th Jul 2006, 09:45
I bought an Avenger about 1 and a half year ago. Right off the bat, I had to change the coolant pump. Then the stalling began, slowly. At first, it would gurgle a little, but then come right back on. Sweet delusion. I'd take it everywhere, and they'd say there was nothing wrong with it. When they finally figured it out, they changed the crankshaft sensor, and it ran well for 6 months. On july 4th, when I was driving to my aunt's... Again! I've spent a Ton of money on towing alone. Don't know if it's worth fixing it. Is it easy to change the crankshaft?
20th Apr 2007, 12:27
I have a 95 ES that I had the same stalling problems. It would just shut off on me going down the road, sometimes it would start back in 5 min sometimes not at all. My friend who has a Sebring said he had the same problems 2 months ago and told me it was his crankshaft sensor. I took it to the shop, had them replace it, and $250 and 6 hours later, it ran like a champ. Now the problem I am having is it idles at like 200-300 RPM when I am at a stop. When I am driving, it runs fine. I just filled it up at a little ghetto gas station (my mistake) so I am hoping it is just some bad gas. I have new wires and plugs that I plan on doing this weekend and I put some dry gas in it. Lets see if that fixes the problem.
I have had just about all the problems you can have with a car, besides with the motor.
1x Water Pump
1x A/C Pump
1x Serpentine Belt
2x Transmissions (first one was rebuilt, and differential pin wasn't replaced, so 2 days later going down the road, and it blew a hole threw the fluid pan)
2x Starters (First one was "rebuilt" way wrong by the shop
1x Front Wheel Bearings
2x Rear Wheel Bearings
2x Control Arms (These were actually a recall from the factory)
Things that need to be replaced:
Driver Window Regulator
Driver Side Lock Acuator
Key does not work in exterior lock hole - Drivers Side.
Granted, this car is 12 years old and is a daily driver, but I am not hard on vehicles, so what gives with everything falling apart? Argh, I need to get a new car, but can't afford to yet.