29th Jul 2015, 11:38
I have one on here with 300k on it. The key to this review is the comment of racing the ricers. I never raced mine. And it lasted. Never once left me stranded mechanically. Was turned in and they couldn't believe the mileage. Was always at White Glove getting cleaned and detailed. I changed the oil sometimes monthly with all the driving I do for business. I have been driving Ford Edges since; also a good one.
24th Aug 2015, 14:40
Over weekend attempted to change exhaust (lower) spark plugs.
The lower right (passenger side) spark plugs are easy accessible from the wheel well (discovered this when changing the rotors/brake pads). Need to take off the tire, and took 20 minutes to change this side.
The lower left side spark plugs (driver's side) are not as easily accessible. I was only able to change the front 2 spark plugs, but had trouble reaching the last 2 spark plugs.
If anyone has done this and know how to reach the last 2 driver's side exhaust plugs, please provide a tip.
The cost of 8 exhaust spark plugs was $80 CAD.
Also changes front rotors with premium pads. $183 CAD.
Replaced front shock absorbent with Monroe Reflex Lifetime warranty (OEM driver shock was shot. Don't recommend the OEM MOPAR as they are not high quality and in winter will freeze and make a clunk noise). $120 CAD.
Took 4 hours to do all this work. Drives much better on bumps, with improved handling.
No issues other than maintenance.
Next project in the Spring: Replace rear rotors/pads and rear shocks. Maybe add a remote starter.
31st Aug 2015, 16:15
I was able to replace the last 2 lower exhaust spark plugs on the driver's side over the weekend. Just had to over extend myself to reach them with the right extension size. I was almost sitting on the engine. Took about 1.5 hrs for the job as the ratchet had little movement distance.
Also will be doing the transmission fluid change in the coming weeks.
Transmission pan filter with gasket, and transmission screw on filter, and 7 liters of Mobil One ATF+4 oil. Cost $96 CAD.
If you are doing transmission flush, ensure you have the ATF+4 ($9/liter, as lots of shops will use the cheaper ATF fluid ($2.50/liter), which is not recommended for Chrysler cars.
1st Oct 2015, 14:04
Over the weekend, bought 2 sets of ramps to lift my Durango for an ATF filter and fluid change. I was able to comfortably slide under and remove all the transmission pan screws, but the unit is sealed from Chrysler; tried using a flat screw driver to pinch it and tried to use a box cutter, but no luck.
Anyone attempted this, please let me know how you were able to open the pan?
My other options which I might attempt...
Use an oil pump extractor to pull the old ATF fluid and refill, but this prevents me from changing the 2 filter, and cleaning the pan. (Cheapest solution as an oil extractor pump can be bought from Princess Auto for $20, and can be reused for other projects)
Take it to a shop and let them open the pan and change the filters and fluid.
Take it to a shop and let them do a ATF flush from hoses going in and out of the radiator.
2nd Oct 2015, 16:39
Do option 3. Fast pay and go out for a nice lunch. It's not often to do this anyway. The flush is pushing out black fluid and it's filtered out on their machine.
5th Oct 2015, 15:25
Did option #1, went to Princess Auto in Whitby (Ontario-CA), and got the pump for 15.99 + tax. I figured I can reuse it, so no loss. I also reused it on my other car as well. Now this tool is a must have, and will always be part of my mechanical tools.
I was only able to extract ~4 quarts or ~3.7 liters.
The old fluid seemed to be in good shape (based on color, feel and smell); probably the previous owner flushed the transmission on the recommended interval of 170,000 km, so I just added back ~4 quarts of new Chrysler Mobil 1 ATF + 4. I will redo this process next summer 2016 with the remaining fluid I still have.
I bought 2 rear shocks from Amazon.ca when on sale. Monroe Reflex both for $100 + tax delivered (sells around $80 each + tax at part stores). Will try to do the swap whenever I have free time on a weekend before the cold weather.
6th Oct 2015, 00:10
I liked option 3. Power flushed at an auto center, and in the process completely circulated and filtered through a machine, and no residue left. Then ran through a power pump until completely clean. My opinion on hand pumps is any remaining residue remains and is contaminating new fluid. Pulling the fluid out only and not all of it, is like changing the motor oil and not the oil filter. I think I paid 80 bucks. It's not like you do it often; maybe every 60-70k. Any metal particles are gone as well. Oil and filters, and coolant changes, I do on all my cars. And I always buy high quality, great filters. I also like Royal Purple in my cars. K&N, and chuck the stock air filters. A good investment long term.
6th Oct 2015, 14:11
I agree with you that option #3 is the best, except the steal-er wanted $350 + tax for the job; if it was $80, then I would not bother doing it myself.
I don't trust them, as I have no way to verify if they did it properly or even did it, as they don't let you see the car.
Did you bring your own fluid; sounds very cheap for $80? The ATF+4 tranny takes more than 8 liters as it has the torque converter. I heard it needs in total 20 liters, so around $150 for ATF+4 when doing a full flush for this Durango.
28th Oct 2015, 17:47
I noticed a minor ticking sound when the car is cold, especially now as the weather gets colder (around zero Celsius). So switched to Formula 1 Synthetic 5w20, and after about a week (~200km), the sound has completely gone.
I am not seeing any side-effects so far after 1000 km. Will be using synthetic oil from now on.
Also did a driver's airbag recall at the Chrysler dealership; it was a hassle to schedule an appointment, and when I went there, they did not have the appointment in system, I guess they don't like warranty work, so they will do it depending on if a mechanic has free time.
3rd Feb 2016, 15:31
At 213,900 KM the water pump went out on Feb 1st, 2016. Before failure, I was hearing some noise when cold, and you could hear it when you turn on the fan for hot/cold air from inside. I thought something to do with the AC system, but on Monday the steering system started to lockup. I thought steering pump went out. It turns out the coolant fluid leaked on the drive belt, causing the belt to slip and the car to have the on/off power steering.
Lubrico Warranty covered the pump and labor. I paid $100 deductible + $20 for the thermostat.
3rd Feb 2016, 20:40
To clarify the above comment. The water pump was replaced. It was leaking coolant.
4th Feb 2016, 17:06
The front shocks that I installed in the summer "Monroe Reflex" make a loud noise when over stretched when the temperature is below zero Celsius. The noise goes away when they warm up. I also bought the same set "Monroe Reflex' for the rear, but did not install them yet, as I thought the rear OEM are still are OK. Rear OEM make no noise in winter. I am not sure what to do now with the new ones that I have not installed.
11th Jul 2016, 17:14
Air conditioning was weak last summer, and this summer blowing hot air. Took it to a mechanic and refilled end of May, worked perfectly for one month, then started to fade and hot air. Turns out to be a simple issue, the high pressure valve is leaking slowly, and needed replacement.
Otherwise, the truck still running with no issues.
12th Aug 2016, 19:32
On Aug 6, 2016:
Transmission panel gasket started to leak (my fault as I earlier tried to open it unsuccessful a year ago), had it replaced along with the filter, spin on filter at mechanic. Labor cost $80.
Had mechanic replace my rear shocks that I bought last year (Monroe Reflex).
Was hard to reach the rear left top screw due to spare tire. Mechanic used a special ratchet tool to reach it. Labor cost $40.
Truck still drives great. I noticed it burns a bit of oil when using 5w20, half a liter/quart for every 5000km, might switch it to 5w30 next oil change to see if it helps.