17th Jun 2003, 11:46
I'm glad to have found this page. Here is my experience with the infamous Intrepid 1999. My only problem before the 100,000 mileage was my electric system, it's haunted by the moody ghost, dome lights, glove compartment light, front passenger window, and other electrical gadgets go on and off as they please, I learned not to bother them, but rather adapt to their mood swings. After the 100,000 mark, the notorious speed sensor went out, which is annoying, but not costly. Last month my starter blew off, this was a headache, but you know what... you can jump start the car for the first 3-5 times, use it wisely to get to a garage. Yesterday, at 130,000, I heard a rattling sound from my engine, which I figured that it's the fan, the car over heated, and today the AC won't work, so this afternoon, my mechanic will enjoy another chunk of my income... taking into consideration that these problems occurred after the 100,000 mark, I think I would say that I'm content with the Intrepid, come on guys... don't forget that the American machine will never compare to the European or Japanese, and we all knew that before we bought this car.
27th Jun 2003, 12:09
I own myself 1996 Intrepid and it seems to be till now pretty good car - I bought it pre owned with 202K miles on it. Well it still runs good and there were only few problems with it - first the rare electrical window refused to close - the problem was that you can pull it down, but you cannot close it. I went to my local dealer and they supposed that this may be a dead motor. The offer was clear - about 70$/h. I am not so bad in car repairing so I took the screwdriver and disassembled the whole door cover and checked the motor and circuits - then I found the problem - bad contact in the door's knob - and because both knobs - the drivers panel one and the back door passenger are connected and dependent each other - they both refused to work - after cleaning and reassembling the things went OK and I saved at least 35$.
I had also a problem with the trunk opener - the trunk refused to close - the problem was in the motor this time - it was stucking in the "open" position and the spring inside refused to move it back to "close" - some power steering fluid (the onliest one I had solved the problem quickly) - another 20-30 bucks saved.
Anyway it is a good car and I like it... maybe if it was a clutch one I would love it. My advice to everyone is - if you want to drive reliable car - don't trust to automatics to choose your style of driving.
30th Jun 2003, 08:25
I have a 1993 Eagle Vision TSI 3.5L 24-valve with 125,000 miles. It has had the standard three evaporator coils replaced, torque converter at 20K, and the trunk lid replaced because of rust. All under warranty. Great handling car with the 16" wheels.
Here is my problem. While driving at any speed, the gages go to zero, the transmission down shifts one or two gears. This causes the occupants of the car to lurch in their seats up against the seat belts. Quickly shifting into neutral will bring the car back to a rolling mode, not held back by the transmission. After a couples seconds, I shift back into overdrive. Everything appears normal. If the car is stopped, and the ignition is sequenced three time to reveal the engine codes, the only code is 55 - end of report.
Another ghostly thing happened. While driving slowly through a shopping mall, the air conditioning fan sped up, the air bag and fuel lamps light, the dash gages go to zero. Two seconds later, everything returns back to normal. Meanwhile the engine purrs perfectly. Twibbles?
Does anyone know what is the problem? Is it the computer power? I realize that there are two main computers, but which one is the problem?
For those who have had heating/cooling fan speed problems. I have fixed mine. The fan module, which located under the middle of the dash up against the firewall, power transistors short circuited. The circuit works in negative logic. Lower the voltage to the module, faster the fan speed. There are two power transistors on the module. I could not purchase locally two 8AMP PNP darlington transistors, so I used a single 25 AMP. The module is fused for 15 AMPs. Cost $4.00. New Module $120.00.
6th Jul 2003, 13:20
I also have a 1999 Dodge Intrepid with the 2.7 liter engine. We purchased this vehicle used with 80,000 miles on it. They assured us it was a reliable vehicle. Well 2 months after purchasing this vehicle, the rear windows quit working we were told that both the motors had to be replaced. The air conditioning fan went out and now doesn't work. We had this problem checked and they told us that the compressor needs to be replaced. The check engine light stays on all the time. We are now having fuel problems with the car. We were told by one mechanic that it was the catalytic converters (there are 2 on this car). A cost of $700.00 to replace both only to find out that this was not the problem. Next they thought it was the fuel pump $350.00 to replace it. We decided to replace it ourselves since we don't have the money to keep going to a mechanic. We removed the fuel pump only to find out the fuel filter was clogged which is inside of the gas tank. The fuel pump was fine just needed to clean the filter which you cannot do unless you drop your gas tank. This car is nothing but a money eating machine. We have had nothing but trouble with this vehicle. If anyone has a class action lawsuit going please contact us at Lilbitte01@aol.com.
10th Jul 2003, 14:44
I own a 1999 Dodge Intrepid ES with 33,000 miles. I also have had A/C problems 3-times, drivers side window 2-times and the transmission problem--sticks in 2nd gear-2 times. Seems we all have had the same problems. It might be time for some lawyer to bring a class action lawsuit.
10th Jul 2003, 18:27
I have a 1999 intrepid with the 2.7 engine. Within the first month that I owned the car the starter went out. My speed input sensor went out at approximately 60,000 miles, the rear passenger side glass do not work, the doom light do not work, and now I am my air condition is not working. The car only has 64,000 miles on it.
A class action suit sounds like a good ideal. The car is a defected product and the company should be liable. If interested please email me at firstname.lastname@example.org.
7th Aug 2003, 20:48
I am the original owner of a 1999 Intrepid with only 44,000 miles. Immediately experienced problems with the brakes pads -- sounded like a school bus. Nothing was wrong with the pads, but was told the problem would go away if I used the manufacturer's pads. That seemed to do the trick, but was a very costly solution. Have always had problems with the windows not rolling down. Dealer showed me that the seals are extremely tight. A mixture of dirt and water can adhere the insulation to the window like glue. Only mechanical prying can get them apart at that point. Another problem since original purchase has been the air/heat controls. Sometimes it sticks on one temperature no matter where the control is set. The air conditioner started losing coolant a few years ago, but I did the expedient thing and topped it off from time to time. Then, a few months ago the interior lights started flickering while driving. Currently have the car in for repair on the air conditioner and interior lights. Called the dealership to follow up. The evaporator has a leak and needs to be replaced ($$$) ; a short in the door panel is causing the lights to flicker. Not sure how much this will cost. Hope my extended warranty covers most, but, just in case, I'm very interested in a class action suit. Contact Sherrie at "email@example.com"