Owner of a 1991 Dodge Stealth ES. Car has 194,000 miles and has been smoking when at idle since 120,000. Ticking noise occurs off and on, most commonly during hot weather, I read that this was also a common problem along with smoking. Other than these two, great car!
I have owned three. A 91, 92 and now a 93. All were the ES series. No smoking or oil usage whatsoever. The 93 inside window seals have failed at 50,000. Everything has been spectacular except the fogging of the windows. Every car has done it. As I was reading the comments it may have something to do with the re-circulation AC.
I own a 93 Stealth ES, and had my car taken in to have a "white smoke" problem, the ticking, and major oil consumption. I had found out that I needed to replace the timing belt, the water pump and some gasket seals. Ever since, my car has ran flawlessly. I only paid a total of $500 with labor... take a look and make sure that your mechanic isn't trying to make some quick cash!!
Any questions or comments write me anytime at:
I own a 91 Stealth RT. 90,000 km. No problems. I too have noticed a ticking noise. Owners Beware, my mechanic told me the engine was falling apart and I should sell before more problems arise. To reduce ticking noise merely put oil additive in every oil change.
I own a '93 Dodge Stealth (fuel injected twin overhead cam) that I bought new in '93. It's actually been a pretty good car. I have 125,000 miles on it now and it still runs like a top. I continually monitor the gas mileage. Combination city and highway is usually 23-25 mpg. I've gotten as good as 32 mpg on the open road.
I also own a 93 Dodge Stealth ES. It is a very reliable car and aside from that it is sporty and fun to drive. My only recent problem was the mechanic recommending I change the Timing belt and Drive belts. I was told that this type of engine requires these changed every sixty thousand miles, however, I only have fifty three thousand on it now. I was wondering if anybody had any advice or maybe ran into the same problem.
1993 Stealth ES. Yes, I just found out that the factory manual specs changing the timing belt at 60K. Somehow this didn't happen during the dealer 60K maint and I am now about to change it with 103K on the original... I also have a ticking and believe it's the lifters. Done so far: replaced radiator, window regulator, head gasket, cruise vacuum pump, prob. more.
1993 Dodge Stealth ES. Great car.
The brake warping problem can be alleviated with vented or cross-drilled rotors; not much more than the stock cost.
The fogging is a common problem, but it's condensing air, not a leak.
The ticking noise is a sticking lifter; not a big deal.
As far as smoking goes, you can replace the valve seats, but not really a big deal unless you don't like to add the oil. I would have a valve job done if I were to pull my heads otherwise.
This is a bullet proof motor capable of up to 600 hp stock...
To the last comment, saying an engine can get up to 600 hp stock, unless its getting 580 off the showroom floor is an oxymoron. If it is stock, you've done nothing to it, if you've done nothing to it, then it won't have a horsepower gain. Except of course better plugs, better air filter, and maybe new exhaust, anything past that and the engine is not stock. Even then changing the exhaust more than from the cat back and the whole stock thing comes into question again.
>>>To the last comment, saying an engine can get up to 600 hp stock, unless its getting 580 off the showroom floor is an oxymoron.<<<
I believe he meant the bottom end. Whether this is true or not, I don't know.
I wrote the oxymoron comment and I agree he may have meant that, but that's not what he said, secondly, it would not happen even at that.
The 600HP stated above means with stock internals, as they are the same as a twin turbo model. To achieve this you would need to convert to a twin turbo setup with big turbos, injectors, etc. The point of the comment was that the engine is tough.
I am considering buying a '93 Base Stealth with 100,000 miles. I had a carfax report and it seemed to belong to a husband/wife combination. I just have 1 question. Is it worth buying. email me your opinions to.
I have 91 base model that I bought a couple months ago it has ran fine, but one thing kind of troubles me, it idles at when you first start it idles at almost 2000rpm and gradually goes down it about 1300rpm, which is still fairly high, and on the free way in 5th gear at 75 mph it is reving at a little over 3000rpm which is also fairly high if I'm not mistaking, it also pulls to right, but I think the tires just need to aligned.
I have a 91 dodge stealth es and I was wondering how much power does 3.0 dual cam motor haves.
I have a 1993 ES with 110,000 miles. When I open the passenger door the inside lights go on. But when the drivers side door is open, the inside lights do not go on automatically. What can I do?
Wow there's a lot of action on this review. Let me try to clear a few things up.
1. The Mitsubishi oil-burner syndrome is caused by the design of the valve stem seals. Over time, these seals solidify and crack allowing oil to seep into the combustion chamber giving you a nice cloud of white smoke most commonly noticed at startup and idle. This is a guaranteed repair for high mileage Mitsubishi engines. It's not a question of "if" but "when".
2. The ticking sound coming from under the valve cover is NOT due to lifters. In fact, OHC engines don't even have lifters. What they do have are follower wheels attached the cam side of the rocker arm. These followers bear no resemblance to the "lifters" found in OHV (a.k.a. pushrod) engines. What is actually causing the ticking is an excessive valve lash or clearance between the rocker tip and valve stem. This is fairly easily remedied with basic mechanical knowledge and a feeler gauge, but I wouldn't recommend a novice attempt this adjustment. While simple it does have the potential for catastrophic engine failure if done incorrectly.
3. These are interference engines. Meaning there is no clearance between a completely open valve and a piston at top dead center. I cannot stress this enough, replace your belt every 60,000 miles like clockwork. Because if it breaks, you will probably be left with a big, greasy paperweight. Also replace the water pump and tensioner while you're in there. I find that these water pumps are inevitably leaking after 60,000 miles.
I have a 1991 Dodge Stealth ES and I have replaced many parts on it. Now when I accelerate over 3000rpm, it loses all the power and does not like to go any faster. The higher rpm I go, the more power I lose. I can't find out what's wrong with it.
My son has a 91 stealth that is in very good condition, it was stored for over 10 years and has 51000 miles on it now.
It is making very loud lifter type noises, but we cannot find anyone in this small town to work on it.
I thought maybe this was do to a oil pump or filter issue, but am not sure. I cannot find a mannual for this 24 valve motor. Believe called a 24 valve DOC. same as GT3000.
Oil was changed, used good synthetic etc, very loud so not driving.
I too have a 91 ES, and it sits in good condition and is well maintained. It gets just over 200hp on the non turbo naturally aspirated motor. Stock off the line was somewhere in the 222-240 range. Hope it helps...
Hey there. Well I have a 93 Dodge Stealth ES, and had never changed the timing belt or anything, till I took off my timing belt covers and saw a whole lot of slack on the belt, and that meant the tensioner went out. Thank god I saw it. Meaning change it now!!! I imported a Dodge Stealth into Portugal. There's only 3 in the whole country!!!