2006 Ford Five Hundred SE from North America - Comments

Needing new brakes at 30,000 miles is not out of the ordinary. You'll find that on any car. Stuff wears out and you have to replace it, that's the nature of cars. They don't last forever.

Goodness! You needed to replace brake pads at 30,000 miles?

Brake pads wear out!

I've had two Ford 500's, both leased cars. My first was a 2005. A few days after I picked the car up, it developed a grinding noise from the rear disk brakes anytime I put on the brakes. I was only a light grinding noise - more like you would hear after the rotors had developed a light coating of rust after sitting unused for several days. I was about to call the dealer to make an appointment when the noise went away. After this initial problem, it never occurred again. When I turned the car in after two years and 30,000 miles, I'd say the rear brakes were pretty well used up! I thought about replacing them with about 3 months left on the lease and went as far as buying the pads from NAPA. But decided to ride it out and see if they would last.

Anyone want a set of pads for cheap?

Since I did like the '05 500, I leased a 2007. No problems until a few days ago when the rear brakes started to grind. I looked at the right rear rotor and saw a groove had developed, so I thought I'd have a chance to use those pads I bought a few years ago. While looking online for the replacement procedure, I saw a entry on a blog about an extended warranty that Ford had placed on the 500 for rear disk brake failures. It mentioned a letter sent in July 2007 to all owners of record. That jogged my memory so I checked my Owners Manual, where I found I had placed my copy of the letter. I called my Dealer yesterday and they replaced the pads and rotors for no cost today.

Here's what is written on the Service Invoice they gave me when I picked up the car:

Program 07N10 (this is the Customer Satisfaction Program that Ford put in place to deal with the brake problem on the 500 and a few other models) Inspect for premature rear brake wear and excessive brake dust. Replaced rear pads and rotors had to heat caliper pin slides were frozen both sides lubed slides reinstalled.

I've done many brake jobs in my life and have had to use heat to get the occasional rotor off the hub, but never have I had to use "heat" on a caliper slide. You can bet that I'll be keeping this Service Invoice in case this problem arises again in the next 13 months that I have this car!

In general, I've found both of the 500's to be capable and comfortable cars to drive and ride in. They certainly aren't the best looking cars on the road, but I've gotten to the point where function outweighs form, so I will consider leasing another Ford 500 (Taurus) next time around if they still lease at a reasonable cost.

By the way, I've switched from the factory synthetic/mineral oil blend to a full synthetic motor oil. Last September, on a trip of about 1200 highway miles, my trip computer said that I had averaged 30.8 miles per gallon! On another trip of 750 miles in early October, it was only 28.5, but now I wonder if the dragging rear disk brake was keeping my mileage down.

Owner of a 2006 Ford Five Hundred:

I have 26,900 miles and need a rear brake job for the second time. As a ASE mechanic I have not encountered this problem with other Ford products. I try to ask questions for getting this problem fixed. The dealership and Ford Customer Service have not been helpful toward this problem. I will try using premium ceramic pads with new rotors to slow the premature wearing of the pads. Any suggestions would be helpful.

I have a 2005 Ford 500, I bought it used with about 25000 miles. on it. It now has over 80,000 miles.

It has had most of the problems previously noted. Under warranty repairs were, the center dashboard storage cover and rear brakes when I purchased the car. Also "after-wards"was the recall on the door locks freezing in the open position, the battery went bad, and trunk latch would not stay closed, and was replaced.

The cars are equipped with Bosch brakes and the design of the brake caliper never releases pressure from the brake rotor, as does the less engineered or more common style of caliper. After purchase, it needed rear brakes again at about 38,000 miles. This time it was on me, so I went to N.A.P.A. and got the best pads they had for the car, there was no pulsing in the brake pedal so I did not turn the rotors for fear that a new heat cycle could warp them.

As stated previously the car now has over 80,000 miles. on it and I have had no new brake problems, at last inspection done by myself about four weeks ago the pads are still good with at least 40% material left and still no pulse or thumping in the brakes.

The problem that I have now is hard starting when car is cold. Cranking 10 or 20 seconds and pumping the gas pedal like mad is the only way to get it to start. at first I thought "water in fuel",but after a 1\2 bottle of dry gas and a tank full of B.P. premium gas the problem is still there. It's a pretty new problem so I haven't had a chance to start throwing parts at it yet, any thoughts will be appreciated.

All in all, it has been a very good car though. After three different 3000mi. vacation trips, most of the time at speeds over 75 mph, I have no complaints that I would call serious. Oh also I use only Pennzoil 5w-30, or 40 100% synthetic motor oil and change the oil about every 18,000 or 20,000 miles, I'm not really concerned if it goes over a little since I use a high quality oil, and also I have no engine knocks or pinging, even when starting at 0 Deg.F.

I have 2005 Ford 500, love the car. Dealer is terrible. The dealers still operate in an outdated way, even though American cars are far behind imports in sales.

I had the air conditioner repaired under warranty, as well as rear brakes and the bubbling dash box lid. The dash box lid will not bubble again as it was replaced with solid plastic instead of vinyl covering.

The 2nd time I had air conditioner repaired, it was only freon, but the dealer charged me $140.00 as the car was out of warranty.

Concerning the rear brakes; I was sent a information card about the brakes from Ford and went to dealer and had no problem getting them repaired. No problems with rear brakes since.

I have 41,000 miles on the car now.

Hi guys:

I have Ford 500. Living up in Canada, with cold weather, my 500 makes grinding noises coming from front when I make turn. (only when we go below -10c). Anyone had this problem?

Has anyone found out why water collects in the rear doors and how to solve the problem? That is the only problem I have with the 2006 Ford 500.

This is a response to the water problem with the rear doors on the 2006 500. I had the same problem and the dealership fixed it for about 200 dollars. According to the service person many models had this problem. This problem is only covered under the factory warranty three years, 36,000 miles.

The price they wanted to charge me originally was 600 dollars to fix it.

Concerning the water collecting in the rear doors. It's is happening to me in the rear door driver's side. I knew something had to be wrong with that! I don' know how to fix it but I wanted to put it out there that his must be another issue with the car. I am also experiencing grinding of brakes and squealing too. I just purchased the car in January 09.

2006 Ford 500 front lights do not work. Mechanic stated connectors were melted, causing bulbs to blow. Advised new connectors to be fused in and replace bulbs. Anybody ever hear of this?

I have a 2006 Ford Five Hundred.

Just lately I have experienced engine surging when coming to a stop. I have to release the brakes momentarily and re-brake. This fixes the problem.

I read the post about resetting the computer so I will try this fix.

I am in the military overseas and have a hard time trying to find someone capable of tracking down this problem. Just wondered if anyone had a fix?

I had the issue with water collecting in the rear passenger side door on my 2007 Ford Five Hundred Limited. It must have been leaking through the window rubber seal instead of shedding the water. I got down on my back underneath the door and noticed that the weep holes were plugged with dirt. I took a toothpick and poked it up into the dirt and water started to drain out. Then, to make the process more productive, I moved up in size to a wood trim nail and pulled the rest of the clogging dirt out of the weep hole. It completely drained within seconds. I still left the door open for about and hour and the water puddle had dried up. I have not had the water in the door again. It was surprising how much dirt was in the door bottom! A shop vac might also work to clear the clogged weep holes.