Oops, careful, the U-joint is different than the ball joint. I just wanted to point that out so you aren't surprised at having to pay to fix two different things. The U-joint stands for universal joint. This is the flexible part that connects the drive shaft to the differential and to the transmission or transfer case. These are relatively simple to change, and shouldn't be that expensive (unless there is something extra special about a Denali). On the other hand, the ball joints are the ball-and-socket joints that essentially connect the wheel spindle assembly to the frame. To replace ball joints (2 upper and 2 lower), the whole wheel assembly down to the bare spindle that the bearings ride on has to be taken apart, so it's typically an expensive, complicated job. $800 on an older 4x4, and probably more on something like a Denali. You may well be looking at a couple of thousand dollars of repairs. On the other hand, that's probably why the guy is only asking $7,000 for a relatively new luxury SUV.
My 99 Denali seems to slow dramatically when I take my foot off the brake. It almost seems like the brake is still on. Usually a car will slow then sort of release. anyone else have the same?
I have a 1999 Yukon Denali (79k miles) and just replaced the fuel pump ($700) at the dealership. The dealer wanted $850 for this repair, but I was firm about paying less telling them they were not offering competitive rates.
The steering column makes noises like the one metioned by another commenter. I cannot duplicate this problem when taking it in for repair. The stereo periodically turns off on its own and the only known way to fix the problem is for me to press the electric door lock. I need a tune up, but do not want to pay the dealer another $700. Any suggestions?
I have a 1999 Yukon and I was having the same problem of applying the brakes and then when I would step on the gas I would get a clunking noise. This started at around 30,000 miles so I took it to the dealership and they said there was a service bulletin and the yoke where the drive shaft attaches had the wrong type of grease. They re-greased it and it has been good for 100,000 miles and now the problem is back. If I find out what kind of grease I will post it.
I have a 2001 Denali with 75K on the odometer. My vehicle has a loud whine from the front differential while cruising and gets louder under acceleration or when you lift off the throttle. Seems to be loudest at around 45 MPH. Anyone experience this?
I have a 99 Yukon Denali, and my radio, windows & wipers did the same thing!! They worked when they wanted to.
I had my boyfriend open up the center console, and we played around with wires until we found the two that affected those areas. We added an extra wire between the two and everything worked. The only downside now is my dome lights, horn, alarm and headlights (I have to manually turn them on). Whatever, it's better than using rain-ex all the time and having no radio.
I am having my entire electrical system redone, so if I find out how to get everything working at once, I'll let you know.
To everyone with electrical problems in Escalades and Denalis, I have a 2000 Escalade and components like the power windows, radio, wipers, cruise control, and the fog lights work when they feel like it. I have replaced every fuse and wiring harness with no luck. I have to take it to an automotive electrical specialist, unless anyone knows what is wrong!
Recently I just purchased my 1999 GMC Yukon Denali, with 114,000 miles on it. I purchased it from a private owner who assured me that the truck was in excellent running condition. The truck is beautiful with 22" rims, and my purchase was $11,000.00. My problem is that since I purchase the truck I had to already replace the Fuel Pump ($800) and the Water Pump ($600). I knew repairs were to happen soon to me, but did not know that the expense would be so greatly in such a short time. The truck runs fine now, but I don't feel that it has the power that it should have. However, all and all, after I have made these repairs, I still feel that I have a great vehicle.
I have a 1999 Yukon Denali with 85,000 miles. It keeps stalling on me while I am driving. I have taken it to the shop and they tried for 2 days and couldn't figure out what was wrong. I have replaced the fuel pump relay and that didn't work. any suggestions?
I have had my 2000 Yukon Denali for almost three years and it has been relatively problem free till the introduction of ethanol to the fuel system. Now it hesitates, the check engine light constantly comes on, and it seems as if it is going to die out when I'm at a red light. I too have found that the eletrical problem is coming from the console, but I have yet to learn how to fix it. Any suggestions on any of the above? Please post them.
I had my 99 Denali since this spring and now I added like 5000 miles on it. So far I had minor electrical problems, such as the power lock system, some fuses, and power seats.
Taking it to its monthly mantenance I always find out new surprises about this poor assembled SUV. Don't take me wrong, It runs smoothly and plenty of power, but its wiring system is absolutely nasty. Many of these were re-called to factory due to some assembly issues such as water pump, transmission, and brakes. Oh..brakes. Besides its ridicolous rotors size for such heavy load, if I didn't know there was ABS I would not feel it. Every time I have to step on brakes for major stopping it feels like instead of brake pads, it has some butter patties. As a matter of fact I am going to replace the entire system very soon. Another bad side, (but we are talking about a 350 here) this big boy is thirsty like hell. 10-13 mpg, and a little better average on highway runs.
But, overall, I'd feel safer with this than with any other Japanese or Asian truck.
I am looking at buying a 99 Denali with 50,000 miles on it. It has the stock wheels and a new set of 24" wheels and tires on it. I can get it for $13,000. I think this sounds like a great deal. I know the vehicle runs great. Does this sound like a good deal?
We have a 1999 Yukon Denali and are having a problem with bogging down while leaving an intersection or pulling grades. One mechanic diagnosed the problem as the fuel injector and another contradicts the diagnosis and says the fuel pump needs to be replaced, although the first mechanic put a pressure gauge on it and said the pressure was fine, while the second said the pump had about 1/2 pressure. Could it be anything else other than these issues? We would hate to replace the EXPENSIVE fuel pump and not fix the problem.