I have a 2000 Holden Vectra. It has done 130.000km. It's great, I have never had a problem with it. Thanks Holden...
I bought a 1999 Vectra three years ago, and have had all the same stalling problems and numerous other problems associated with faulty sensors and poor electrical components. The stalling problem according to Holden was due to carbon build up, the throttle body was cleaned and the IAC valve replaced, but this seems to need to be done nearly every couple of years.
Don't ever buy one.
I purchased a 1998 Holden Vectra in December 2009, unfortunately before I found this forum. I have had numerous problems in the short time that I have had my Vectra.
1. Cam sensor replaced @ 72000kms.
2. All spark plugs replaced after oil contamination, which caused the car to stall and the engine light come on.
3. Rocker gasket cover and seal replaced after dealer put the wrong part in; this caused the contamination to spark plugs and leads.
4. Step motor needs to be replaced as the car continually stalls, and the idle is quite erratic at traffic lights, and when the air con is on.
And the list still goes on; don't buy a Vectra ever!!!
I have owned my 1998 2.5L V6 Vectra CD for 10 years now. It has been good up until now. I have done 120000 km in it (currently 150000km).
Things that I have had to do myself, as the Holden mechanics only want to do a grease and oil/filter change. I have replaced all the door lock and they failed progressively, changed heater hoses, installed tow bar, installed new disc rotors.
On the weekend the water pump failed, and I suspect the timing belt has slip a tooth and bent the valves. At $100 a valve, this is potential a very expensive fix.
My suggestion is to change the water pump when the timing belt and idler are changed at the scheduled 120,000 service.
I recently took my 1999 Vectra in for its 135000 km service. The mechanics found a leaking water pump, which I paid to have replaced. When replacing the pump, the mechanic also fitted a new timing belt.
Around 1000kms later the timing belt tensioner failed, causing the timing belt to break and about $4000 worth of damage to the engine.
Holden advised me that the repair isn't covered under the parts warranty, as it was the tensioner that failed, and during the 135000km service the mechanic couldn't see anything wrong with it, so didn't replace it.
Does anyone know if the mechanic should have replaced the tensioner as part of the timing belt replacement? The belt had already been replaced before 120000kms.
We bought our 99 JS Vectra last year, and it drove well for 6 months. Since then we have had central locking system changed as the boot wouldn't open, petrol door jammed, expensive oil leaks just to name a few!
We definitely didn't do thorough research when we bought it, but now we are stuck with it for the meantime.
Now our car has started to come on with engine light warning, and the tachometer and speedometer drops to zero or goes up and down while driving. This has happened 5 times in the last two weeks. I'm not keen to take it to a Holden dealership because of the huge costs already. Another mechanic suggests it could be the idle mechanics. Did anyone have this problem, and how was it fixed?
I bought my 2000 Holden Vectra Station Wagon in November 2008... And boy do I wish I didn't!
Before Christmas even rolled around, I was having trouble getting the key to actually turn in the ignition... Turns out we had to replace the ignition barrel. Got a second hand one and that has been fine since. Battery was also replaced then for $150!! Was replaced again 6 months later under warranty as faulty.
When the battery was replaced, the car had been stalling for a little while (already been "fixed" once, but the problem returned, whenever I would slow down, either at lights or to turn a corner so I was driving in gears). The mechanic asked if I knew my engine light was coming on, and I told him yes because I thought he meant the stalling. He then said that he switched off the engine light so my usual mechanic doesn't have to worry about it?? After this the engine light did return...
The stalling came back around January this year and we are now aware that the carbon clean out has to be done regularly.. It got so bad that I had to drive around the Gold Coast with two feet (to keep the revs up whilst braking).
Also I had some problems on trips from Gold Coast to the Brisbane airport (Speed limit is 110) Where the revs would go absolutely nuts, jumping up and down when I was driving at a steady pace!
It's quite frightening for a 19 year old to be experiencing, and I definitely wouldn't recommend anyone purchase one...
I am lucky my parents have been able to help with the mechanical bills otherwise I would be so stuck!! It's insured for twice the price we paid (bought from family friend's dealership) so I'm hoping it gets written off!
It will be good riddance!!
And issues with remote central locking:
I also had the battery die in my remote key, so I replaced the battery and the key cutter gave me instructions for syncing the key once I got back to the car. I replaced the battery about 12 months ago now, and constantly have to re-sync it; I even had to do it again yesterday. I gave up on it for a very long time and just used the key, it is definitely temperamental! Is there a fix for this?
I am the person who also had the stalling problems ^^
Yes, I own a JS Vectra.
Rocker cover gasket replaced 3x over 18 months, cam sensor replaced, only have stalling issues when doing short trips, never on or after long drives.
Cam belt now in kit form only (all idlers and tensioner to be replaced at same time), approx 50,000 km.
Water pump every second belt change (yeah right), do it while you're in there to be safe.
Have owned the car for less than a month before finding out it was due a cambelt change :(
Have done 49,000km since then, damn, it's all due soon :(
Top mounts on front suspension known to crap out, rear bushes (pivoting) had to be replaced, brake sensor light up, replaced good for 2 months back again, ignored, might actually be the pads this time.
PRO'S: has a Clubsport body kit, so it doesn't really look like a Vectra.
It does drive well.
Thank you everyone with your comments, I was on the verge of buying a Vectra until I saw this website. Not recommended and advice taken. Apologies to the people that didn't see this website beforehand.
My 1998 JR Vectra is now officially not worth fixing after 2 head gaskets in 20,000 ks. The second one went while driving on the freeway from Sydney to Melbourne, and is going to cost too much to fix. This along with many electrical and other mechanical faults makes it too much trouble to fix. I get my BA Falcon on Monday, and my Vectra is going straight to the wreckers :)
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