3rd Dec 2009, 21:08
I have a 1999 Honda Odyssey LX with roughly 216,000 km on it. The Check Engine Light had appeared roughly a year ago. At the time, I thought it was due to a loose gas cap and the cold weather. I had tightened the gas cap and filled up on 89 and 93 octane gas. It went away for a period of time during last winter.
Recently, the Check Engine Light came on again. With the cold weather again, I thought it might have been the same problem as last year. However, it did not go away.
I'm glad I read all your comments on this board. The Honda dealer wanted to charge me $105 to run the code. It seemed a lot of people on this board had the code to replace the catalytic converter. I decided to start small and replace the gas cap for roughly $20. I got a Honda OEM gas cap. That did the trick. I had debated on getting an after market gas cap but some people have reported problems with it.
Anyways, thanks to everyone for posting their experiences.
3rd Jan 2010, 23:38
My 2000 Odyssey has been functioning with the check engine light on for a couple of years. It is a problem whenever I need the emmissions test, but nothing that can't be overcome. It is not getting bad gas mileage and is running great. It passes the emmissions test, but as long as the light is on, they won't test it.
I read the other threads and filled up with premium gasoline. That night my battery went dead because something was left on, so when I cranked it, the light was off. I guess the computer reset because of the dead battery. I drove it approximately 30 miles and realized it was staying off, so I went the inpection station and IT PASSED!!! YEEHAW!!! I'm set for at least another 14-15 months (I never get it done on time).
Anyway, after reading these threads, it appears logical to me that some people on here really have catalytic converter problems (the ones that are running rough and getting bad gas mileage), but most are NOT. DON'T replace it!!! It won't necessarily fix the problem and it's VERY expensive.
Before doing that, try the premium gas, change the gas cap, tap on the converter, etc. Save your money, please.
13th Jan 2010, 01:02
Boys... if I have read all these comments last week, I wouldn't have bought my 1999 Odyssey. Now I'm in the same boat with the CE, on and of course they told me it's the CC. OMG...
13th Jan 2010, 22:33
I also have the P0420 from 45K, 75K and 127K. Has anybody mentioned that the Honda Recall early on 2000 Odyssey has something to do with the EGR Port Clogging. Although Honda has come up with a fix (install a pipe into the EGR port in the intake manifold), I found that when the light came on at 75k, I have to take the manifold off the car and clean the "installed pipe" and clear the passage. This bought me about 45K of peace. I guess I have to do this again this weekend.
17th Jan 2010, 22:21
Code 1456, replaced the gas cap, replaced the two way evap valve, but the same problem, smells a lot of gas in the fuel filler neck. Anybody with this problem?
17th Jan 2010, 23:05
Just took out the intake manifold and cleaned the EGR pipe that Honda has installed from the recall. Also I have cleaned the PCV too. The CEL stayed off for now after 500 miles of trip. Hope it will stay off for the next 45K miles. Hope this information may help some people looking for solution at this site. Good luck.
9th Feb 2010, 14:31
1999 Odyssey - 105K miles - dreaded CC code came on. Mechanic will give his opinion today, he is aware of the history...
I doubt I'll replace the CC based on this thread of posts.
It's been pretty good until now - just the side door problem early on. Keep you posted.
10th Feb 2010, 19:45
2000EX - bought in March 2000. Wow, what a great van, currently has ~255,000 miles, one transmission, just had to replace the EGR valve.
I have a new issue. At 3000rpm it acts as if it's bouncing off a rev limiter. Any ideas?
13th Feb 2010, 09:14
To all of you with sliding door problems: pull fuse #13, in passenger side fuse box, wait 30 seconds, replace fuse. Couldn't believe it would work, but by grubs it did! My mechanic was shaking his head, too. Doors now work fine.
15th Feb 2010, 21:26
My 2000 Odyssey had P420 error indicating catalytic converter issue. My dealer quoted $1200 for the repair. I instantly refused and luckily found this blog. Based on the suggestions posted, I did not go for after market part. I shopped nearby Honda dealers and got new CC installed for $785. Apparently the cost of the converter is around $480 to dealerships. Anything above this is their markup.
I found the dealer who sold me the CC for $580, much less that $950 than my local Honda dealer charged.
Bottom line: Shop around...
21st Mar 2010, 08:56
The check engine light on our 2000 Odyssey came on in November 2009, right after my wife filled it with fuel. I figured that maybe the gas cap wasn't tight. Tightening the gas cap did not make it go off, even after a week of driving. Took it to the dealer, and they got the code saying we needed a new catalytic converter, and I got an estimate for $1000!
I did not get the catalytic converter, but had the dealer reset the light so it was off. It came back on a week later. Then I changed spark plugs, (first time at 120,000 miles), bought good gas, and disconnected the battery to reset the check engine light myself. The van runs good as ever and the check engine light is staying off. (3 months so far!) I say don't get a new catalytic converter unless the engine is running poorly. You can't trust those codes.
6th Aug 2010, 11:32
I have the 2000 Odyssey EX. The CEL has been on (sometimes off) for about three years now. I read these posts a few years back and did not want to experience the nightmares of dealing with the dealers or other mechanic shops. So I just kept driving it with the light on.
If you want the code for the CEL fault, several auto parts stores will do it for free.
To reset the CEL (make light go off), unhook the positive battery cable for about 2 seconds. This may require you to enter the security code on your radio, but not always.
To get a Texas state inspection, I reset the CEL and drive it for at least 100 miles. This is usually enough time to reset the sensors, but not trigger the CEL again.
Never replaced the CC, used fuel additives or anything else outside or normal maintenance. The van runs great. Nice cold AC for the Texas heat. Been very reliable for many long trips.
Bought it at 65K, had transmission replaced under warranty at 85K, and it now has 122K.
1st Sep 2010, 13:36
I tried hitting the converter with a hammer and that didn't work. Figured maybe I didn't hit it hard enough, so I went under there and hit it with a sledge hammer. I got carried away and crushed the whole converter. Actually it felt good doing it. I then started to bash the whole van. Can't believe how good it felt. I continued until I was exhausted - best sleep I had in years. I am free at last!!!