Comments: 1-15, 16-30, 31-45, 46-60, 61-75, 76-90, 91-96
I will warn people about buying Fords and Chevrolets.
2000 Honda Odyssey.
I've replaced the transmission 3 times, the first at 40,000 miles, twice on my nickel. Endless CE lights. Like everyone else it shows EGR valve issue, replaced it, no difference. Electrical system blew as well. Change oil every 3000 miles is ridiculous in today's world. Yes I'm up to 147,000 miles, and I still like driving the car, but my excellent mechanic can't clear the CE light so it won't pass the next inspection. It's time for another car--and it won't be a Honda. Too bad I just put on new tires and brakes.
They drive nice, but the cost to maintain my wife's Caddy SRX, which is considered an unreliable car is about 1/2.
For all you husbands out there, know that you're not crazy!
My father is a mechanic, and I have always worked on my own vehicles. But I have had my troubles dealing with this 2000 Odyssey. I have the ERG and Catalytic Converter Problem. If you replace the Catalytic Converter, also replace the resonator, this will improve the exhaust flow. My TOC light comes on every time I go over a speed bump. Have not resolved that yet. The transmission malfunction caused the three mounts to go bad, the slipping and banging causing the mounts to break. The mounts should be a part of the transmission recall. Wives don't lose your belief in your husbands over this vehicle: it is not just one problem, it is many problems.
Hossie Long
Design Engineer
Madison, AL.
I have a 2000 Honda Odyssey and also had clogged EGR valve problems, replaced the CC with an after market model to save money, and am still having the CEL problem. The car has 120,000 miles. I am wondering, do I drive it with the light on and forget about it, or get a Honda converter, or call it quits and sell it? Other than the CEL, I have really liked the car.
I own a 2000 Odyssey. It has 115000 Miles and the check engine light is on. I paid $19.99 to pepboys to check the codes and give me the estiamte. The mechanic said the transmission fluid is higher than the suggested level by an inch. Showed me the level where those two dots on a stick. He said someone might have added more transmission fluid to answer me and suggests a transmission flush. What is the differnece between the flush & drain/refill? Any comments? He switched off the light though, I know it will reapper with in no time. He says the excess fluid makes the tranny acts funny!!!
The Brakes Plus charged $337.50 for new rotors and pads. They rotated the tires. Now, the steering shakes. Pep boys charges $50 for a wheel balancing, still the steering wheel shakes!!, any clue??
I was told by a reliable source never to flush a Honda transmission: drain, but never flush!!!
150,000 miles on our 1999 Odyssey, many miles pulling a trailer (camping). Check engine light came on, replaced CC with after market unit. After several months light came back on. Reading was to replace CC. Light has been on for last 5000 miles. My suggestion for a fix is black tape over the light!!
Works for me!!!
My Honda Odyssey EX just had the trouble light code P0420 at 85463 miles. Mechanic recommended fix is to replace the CC and Oxygen Sensor for about $850. I haven't gone back to Honda yet. Has anyone had success getting Honda to fix it after the 80000 warranty? Has anyone not fixed this problem and had engine problems? Thanks you for any input.
My 2001 Honda Odyssey's transmission went out at 119,000 miles. I guess I was a lucky one having it last that long, but I was left with the $3,700.00 cost. Guess what?? Right after that repair, the CE like came on and now I need a CC. UNBELIEVABLE. I will never buy a HONDA again. I had Buick's, Chevy's and Fords with over 250,000 miles without any major problems. I thought HONDA'S were suppose to last for ever. Not this one.
Why did you switch to Honda if your GM's and Ford's were so good? Makes no sense to me if you ask me. It seems like most people bashing a company like Honda bring in stories of how their Aerostar had 1 million miles before they traded it for a Honda that was a piece of crap. What gives?
My 2000 Odyssey, 90K miles, constantly has engine light coming on lately. Mechanic first replaced front oxygen sensors (light came back on in a month) then rear sensor (light back in on a week or 2), cat converter for about $1000.00 (shoulda taken it to a muffler shop for several hundred less? – light back on in a month) ;O2 sensors replaced individually (light back on in matter of days or hours). Fortunately, mechanic is good (and frustrated) about it not charging to resolve, but I'm dropping my car off there on a regular basis now. PITA... I've owned 3 other Hondas. Other than the power doors acting up (which in 2000 I saw coming) the car is well built. But this engine light business is really frustrating, and I have NJ inspection this month! I hear sensors need time to "break in", so I can't immediately get inspected while engine light is off – damn!)
For those talking about selling theirs... who will buy car with engine light on (seriously, I'd like to know!)??
Odyssey 2000 - Code P0420 - Check Engine light, Cat Converter, etc.
Check engine light came on. Went to Auto Zone car parts store since all their stores have an OBD II reader behind the counter. If asked they will, FREE OF CHARGE, get the code out of the car's computer (the OBD socket is just to right of steering wheel under dash on my 2000 odyssey). My on-board diagnostics code was a P0420 ("catalytic converter bank 1 not efficient enough... blah, blah, blah"). The Auto Zone people can CLEAR the code if asked. They will warn you that "it will come back" if the fault is hard. It MAY NOT be a hard fault: it may not be the cat converter, it may not be either oxygen sensor, it could be an air leak, it could be bad batch of gasoline, etc. etc.--- all of which may produce a p0420 code. I then immediately did 2 things (based on advice from someone on the net) : 1) put triple the amount of usual GASOLINE CONDITIONER into my almost empty gas tank, 2) went to the nearest SUNOCO station and filled up with Ultra 93 gasoline. Have driven some 120 miles so far and no check engine light. This suggests (does not prove) that maybe it was the gasoline I was using recently --- Going back to Shell I guess. Anyway, in the meantime I passed my state inspection.
I MAY HAVE A SOLUTION FOR P0420!!! First, a little background:
I happened upon this forum about a month ago, searching for answers to the pesky p0420 check engine code. I, like others, had already replaced both oxygen sensors in "bank 1" in front of the catalyst, and the catalytic converter, twice (both after-market converters, for what it's worth). I was considering trying an overpriced Honda OEM catalytic converter, until I read the post from the guy who, like me, had replaced the converter twice with after-market parts, then was advised by Honda to replace it with a genuine part, only to have the code return after he followed that advice. I just paid three grand to rebuild the transmission (at 140k miles), so I'm in no mood to pour more money into this vehicle. On the other hand, I've invested too much to NOT find a solution, so the search continued. (Unfortunately I live in a state where emissions inspections are required, so I *have* to get to the bottom of this code nonsense.)
It just so happens that I hadn't had a tune-up on my van in 75,000 miles (!). (I installed "75 thousand mile double platinum plugs at my last tune-up, so I foolishly thought I didn't have to worry about another tune-up for 75,000 miles.) I went to the local Auto Zone to buy tune-up parts, and the friendly attendant there told me that a p0420 is a "minor" code--that if replacing the oxygen sensors didn't do the trick a tune-up should. I need to take it to my service station to have the plugs replaced, but one thing I can do myself is replace the air filter. Yesterday afternoon I plopped the new filter in (the new $16 filter, I might add), and the next morning on my way to Christmas breakfast the check engine light was OFF! I haven't driven without that light on for the past year or so, so I don't need to tell you how joyful I was at the sight of that. (This was the BEST Christmas present ever!)
I'm trying to contain my excitement somewhat since it's still early, but this is definitely a good sign. While I don't think it's been 75k since I last replaced the air filter, I can't say with any certainty how long it was. I habitually write down services performed in a little book I keep in my glove box, and nowhere do I see an entry for replacing the filter. The one I took out didn't look filthy, but it was somewhat dirty. More importantly, I think, it looked very "bloated"--I couldn't see the spaces between the pleats, like on the new one. If this truly is the solution, I'm happy and grateful for it--but I can't help, but be a little resentful for all the money I spent (unnecessarily?) in an attempt to solve this problem. (It should be documented more clearly as a solution, if it is indeed one.) I've been known to skimp on air filters by simply forcing air through them to clean them out, rather than paying $15-$20 to replace them. Never again.
Hopefully this will be of use to somebody out there, so as not to go through what I and many others seem to have gone through. If so, help spread the word. Good luck!
After reading the preceding comments, I feel somewhat fortunate that most of the problems I've experienced with my Odyssey were covered under warranty. I started looking at the Odyssey vans in 1999 but always wary of buying the first year of a new model, waited and purchased a 2000 EX. ALL the vehicles I've owned have been Hondas (5 cars & 4 motorcycles), so you could say I'm a very loyal Honda consumer.
I was a little worried about the power doors when I purchased the van, so kept an eye on recalls and technical service bulletins. I had the doors worked on at the Honda dealership 2 or 3 times during the first year, and major repairs in 2005 (still waiting for $400 payment from extended warranty company that went bankrupt) and 2007 ($360 for new power door roller and contacts on one side).
Like most others, my CEL came on at about 37k miles indicating a bad EGR valve. That was replaced under warranty and again at 73k miles. The dash lights (recall item) were also fixed under warranty, as was the transmission replacement (thank goodness I bought the extended warranty). The doors have been the main recurring problem... until now.
On the way to Christmas dinner two days ago, my CEL came on again (not the pretty lights I like to see this time of year). 24 hours and $48 later, my Honda dealer tells me it will cost $800+ for a new catalytic converter. I'm still unsure how to proceed. My other auto repair shop tells me that an after-market CC may not have the proper flow and I may need the Honda OEM CC. I'd appreciate any advice others may have.
From a very loyal Honda owner, I'd have to say that the 2000 Odyssey EX has been a disappointment compared to the other Hondas I've owned. It drives nice, but seems to have an inordinate amount of annoying problems for a Honda. My Accord with 206,000 miles had less problems than my Odyssey with 116,000 miles.
A comment for the person who had his CEL lights off after replacing air filter.. Is the light still OFF and how many miles.. It would be nice if you can post the info once a week etc so most of us will know what to do and not spend $1000 at the dealer..
Thanks.
I have the same check engine light on problem since 10k for my 2000 EX. I noticed if I accelerate slowly and keep engine speed below 3000 for two or three week, the CEL will go off. If you disconnect the battrry, the light will go off also. I will replace air filter and try premium gas separately as suggested by others. At 100k, I replaced with cheap plugs and get 19 to 20 mpg. Then a friendly AAMOCO guy suggested that I should spend $60 to get OEM platinum plug and I did, I got around 22 mpg now.
Jian.