1995 Isuzu Rodeo Reviews - Page 6 of 9

I had a service garage replace the master cylinder at approximately 100,000 Km as occasionally it was bypassing.

This Isuzu is so good, I sold my 96 Blazer and purchased another 95 Isuzu with manual transmission.

Handling is 100 percent with Michelin tires.

Gas mileage is as good as any newer model car.

I have a possible answer to the starting problem other owners have been having. We had the same problem. The battery checked out fine. We replaced the starter and alternator and still could not get it to start reliably. Our mechanic changed out the contacts with Toyota contacts because he could not find Isuzu contacts. It works great now!

Most recently the water pump went out and caused the car to severely overheat. It melted the timing belt covers (upper left, upper right, and lower) which are not cheap to replace and you can only find at a dealership or salvage yard if you are lucky. The timing belt had to be replaced to since it was also badly damaged. The belt has been a nightmare trying to get back on correctly.

The power windows have a hard time going up and down.

The power locks "jump" up and down 3 or 4 times when trying to lock the car and it is very hot outside. Also, on one door the lock does not ever fully dis-engage, causing the door to not open. You have to manually pull the lock up.

The rear window has a hard time latching in very hot or very cold weather.

To replace the lights behind the speedometer/fuel indicator/RPM panel you have to take out the dashboard and take off the steering column. It's very inconvenient to get to, so replace all the lights while you have it taken apart.

The interior lights seem last for a few months and then burn out. I'm beginning to suspect an electrical problem because the CD changer shorted out also. However, this car survived Tropical Storm Allison a few years ago which could be the cause.

Overall I like the way the Rodeo handles on the road and the space inside the car.

The backseat has excellent leg room.

However, to fix anything on this car is usually an ordeal, and always expensive.

Unusual oil leak at two spark plug tubes since day one--did not affect performance, needed an extra qt. of oil per month. Was eventually fixed by mechanic.

Replaced brake shoes at 96K.

Replaced timing belt at 98K.

Replaced valve cover gaskets at 130K.

Since hitting 130K, this truck has required the replacement of the spark plug harness 3x--don't know why.

Gets the same mpg today as it did when I drove it off the lot new 9 years ago.

Had a leak in the clutch master and slave cylinders around 120K (2003)

Replaced the A/C system in 2003.

Shocks gave out around 110K.

Replaced driver's side wheel bearings at 130K, repacked passenger's side.

Replaced front passenger side hub at 135K--broken/loose studs due too bad/weak design according to mechanic. Driver's side front studs were tack welded in place (they would spin in place, making tire removal difficult or near impossible.)

Upholstery holding up well, but padding could stand replacing in front bucket seats.

Driver's side windshield wiper stopped working in a light rain in Jan. 2004--connector rod broken, passenger side wiper works fine.

The rubber boots surrounding the ball joints are dry rotting, requires occasional shots of grease.

Despite the multitudes of service calls required over the last 12 months, this has been an extremely reliable and sturdy truck. Most problems are due simply to age and increasing mileage. All in all, I spent no more than $250 per year (if that) in maintenance (including oil changes at home) for the first 7 years of its life.

I've taken this truck from NC to TX 3x, 1x to Arizona, countless times to NJ, 2x to Colorado, 2x to FL and once to Minnesota, and all trips were mechanically uneventful and comfortable. Last long distance trip was to Houston, TX in August 2003.

Interior is spacious, good towing capacity, and I've never gotten stuck. Very reliable. Plus, at 141K, I'm still on the original clutch.