1999 Isuzu Rodeo LS from North America - Comments

18th Oct 2006, 08:47

I have a 99 Rodeo as well. I bought it when it was 3 years old. It's given me every single problem the I read about except for the Back Windshield Wipers. My ABS system went out, my gas gauge doesn't work so I'm constantly resetting my miles when I put gas. My check engine light is off and on again and my transmission slips into neutral (and back to drive) when I'm driving. Now more frequently than before since I'm doing a lot of stop and go driving. I remember this past summer I was having to add oil like every 6 weeks. What's up with that? It's a very nice vehicle... still looks good, but the problems are ridiculous. Yeah, it gets on my nerves to... but what do you do??? I paid a lot of money for this car, so I have to keep it.

It hasn't broken down on me yet, so I've been lucky. But with everything else that's going on, you have to wonder what's next? Austin, TX.

25th Oct 2006, 16:30

I have a 1999 LS Rodeo with 113,00 miles and I, also, have had the gas gauge problems. I paid $400 to the dealer to replace a part to fix this issue. So far, after the fix, I am not experiencing this problem anymore. I have a bigger problem, now. The transmission light and the engine light have both come on. I had a mechanic clear the code out of the computer so that the lights would go off. I was told that the transmission was probably slipping a little and that the fix would be approximately 2400 to repair. He indicated that it needed an overhaul by a transmission specialist. However, he also said that since it was running OK and not really giving me any problems - except for the lights - I could just drive it and it may not really cause any problem for now. I chose to NOT fix it and keep driving it. I do like the car - but would never buy an Isuzu again due to the problems.

27th Oct 2006, 13:22

Ditto to the ABS, Gas Gauge, Check Engine Light. I had the ABS module replaced for $265 by the dealer and the next week I got a recall in the mail for that part. When I called the dealer about it they said it wasn't a manditory recall so they weren't going to refund me. After calling other local dealers and reporting them to BBB, I got a refund check in the mail.

I had previously paid to have the gauge fixed during a scheduled maintenance, it was about $400 for the whole deal.

I have always had idol problems - It likes to rev up at stop signs.

Tighting the gas cap used to work on the engine light, but not this last time.

2nd Nov 2006, 12:32

I bought my 1999 Rodeo new and I have about 118,000 miles on it. I also have experienced most of these same problems. The oil consumption problem has been a real concern. The oil consumption is worse on long trips. There are no oil drops on the garage floor and I don't appear to be leaving a cloud of smoke behind me... so where is it going?

I just took it to the dealer and was told that sometimes the EGR Tube gets clogged. When it does get clogged, pressure is unable to escape. This build up in pressure causes the increased oil consumption.

So, for $110, I had the tube cleaned out. I just had it done today, so I cannot say whether it has fixed the problem or not. We'll see.

3rd Nov 2006, 21:00

I am starting to experience the faulty gas gauge problem also with my 2001 Izusu Rodeo with 44,000 miles. Might try some of the tricks listed above, but figure it will end up costing me anyway. We all need to push for Izusu to issue a recall on the Fuel Sending unit / Fuel pump.

Also, just had a tune up and I still get engine pings (misfire) sometime when accelerating or on incline.

Took it back in for them too look at and could nott find anything wrong. Said maybe that it could be bad gas.

Been meaning to write my Senator about “the high price of bad gas”. I think these oil companies are

Really taking us to the cleaners and could be damaging our car engines.

22nd May 2007, 16:39

I recently purchased a 1999 Isuzu Rodeo. I have had the gas gauge issues. Now I just fill up every 100 miles or so. I don't dare wait much longer than that.

This morning while I was driving to work, the check engine light came on and stayed on. When I left work this afternoon, I stopped at a gas station, checked the water, and checked the oil. Of course, it was a quart low. After adding oil, the check engine light stayed on. I think I was very close to having a panic attack all the way home. The whole time I was driving, I was listening for any noises. Thankfully, I made it.

I am also having issues with idling. If I let it run for a few minutes before driving, it will often calm itself down. Then and only then will I drive it.

It's so disappointing. This is the first time I've been able to buy myself a good car in years, only to find out it's not so good.

13th Jun 2007, 17:25

I'm so sad to read all these comments! I'm at 105k on my 1999 Rodeo and have had no problems until now. I took it in today and was told I need new brakes (first time they've been changed) and a new serpentine (second time its been replaced). Other than that though I've had no issues and am so happy with my Rodeo. After writing this I'm going to knock on wood 500 times and anticipate fuel gauge and check engine light problems, but if that's all I'll have to worry about...I'll take it! And for those of you who wondered about how many miles per tank... with LA city driving (stop and go, no long freeway stretches) I usually fill up around 225 miles.

14th Jun 2007, 21:37

I have a 1999 Isuzu Rodeo LS V6. Here are the current problems:

- Gas gauge does not work at about 50K miles.

- Car seems to keep moving forward when braking over a bumpy pavement.

- Rattling noise which cannot be determined by the repair shop or by a muffler repair shop.

- Losing oil.

- Rear differential needs replacement (recent problem starting at about 75K miles).

I found these links for help on the gas sending unit and others:

http://www.planetisuzoo.com/articles.htm?id=116&Replacing_the_Fuel_Sending_Unit_on_a_2nd_Gen_Isuzu_Rodeo

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/t201477.html

16th Jun 2007, 22:27

Supplies Needed:

2-3 Ft Vacuum Hose

2 cans Seafoam Injection Cleaner

1 quart Lucas Heavy Duty Oil Stabilizer

1 large Can Gumout Carb Cleaner Spray

The links in the post above this will be very helpful in your quest for a problem free Rodeo. But here is my story and fixes. I have got a 99 Rodeo LS 2WD with 253,000 miles, and I have been through most of this. Here is how to keep your Rodeo running top knock. First add a pint container of either Seafoam or any very strong engine cleaner in with your oil. Run for 5 mins. Have another can of Seafoam or any very strong injection cleaner. Pull off the small vacuum hose under the throttle body. Using a longer hose connected to that port and start the truck. With the throttle raised up to about 2500 RPM, slowly dip the vacuum hose in the Seafoam injector cleaner, letting the vacuum draw it into the engine.. The engine should bog down. Pull the hose back out. Then repeat once more. When the second dip is done, drop it back to idle. Then dip the hose all the way in. This should stall the motor after a few seconds. Reconnect the old vacuum hose and pour the rest of the Seafoam back into the gas tank. Let that soak in the motor while you move on to the next paragraph.

Now drain the oil. While the oil is draining, remove the large rubber hose from the air box to the filter. Open the throttle by hand and spray it all down with the Gumout. More than likely it will be all nasty and black with carbon. Spray and wipe the throttle flap with the Gumout Carburetor cleaner until clean, paying special attention to the back side and bottom. It is the only part you can't see, and the most critical to clean. The carbon builds up on all of these surfaces and allows additional air to slip by creating a check engine light or CEL. Get a flashlight, and with the throttle all the way open, look for a tube probably quarter inch around; it will be located top left back from the throttle body. Make sure it is NOT plugged. If it is, blast it with some more Gumout Spray Carb cleaner. If still plugged, you have 2 choices; remove the EGR valve and use compressed air to blow it out. If this is not an option, use a coat hanger and Gumout to break it apart. Don't weary about the chunks you break off; they will be burnt back up and sent out the exhaust. Spray everywhere you can get in there with more Gumout; don’t be shy with it. This area is another CEL problem. Mine clogged only once, and I have done this ritual every oil change at 5,000 miles. Dealers call this a throttle body service, and can charge over $200.00 dollars for it, and would not be as thorough as this.

After you’re all cleaned and have unplugged the tube, put the air filter tube back on. Now your oil should be fully drained. Put the oil drain plug back in. Fill the crankcase with 10/40 oil. I know it's supposed to be 5/30, but believe me this will be better. Only put 4 quarts in. Then put a quart bottle of Lucas Heavy Duty Oil Stabilizer. Oil will now stay in the motor. The Lucas is a little expensive a $7.88 a quart, but that one quart will save you at least 10 of oil or more. OK, now when you start the Rodeo, it will smoke like Hell's kitchen. Take it straight out before your neighbors see it and give it a good run; that will blow out all that nasty carbon. When I do mine now, it doesn’t even smoke.

Now for the gas gauge. They are available through some dealers on the Internet. The links in the post above mine should have them. The are like $40.00 and it comes with 2. So you flip a wire on one of the new ones and you have a pair the same. They are not that hard to put in. But I would recommend a repair shop do it for you. You DO NOT have to change the fuel pump with it. Just the sensor.

Now the dreaded rattle that took me forever to find. Mine was towards the back. I swore it was the back glass, but as it turned out it was the back seats. Fold down the back seats flat. Now there will be a metal horse shoe looking piece that the seats lock to when they are in the up right position. Wrap black electrical tape around the horse shoe thing where the seat makes contact. Wrap it about 4 times, and go wider than the strike zone of the seats. That should fix one of the most annoying things that I have found.

You DO NOT have to replace the wiper board assembly. There are 2 relays on that board that need to be replaced. Anyone that can follow directions and solder, should have no problem with this one. I found the relays on the Internet for $7.00 each; that’s a $190.00 savings over the whole unit. The link below will help you with this project.

http://forum.planetisuzoo.com/viewtopic.php?t=5608