2000 Jeep Cherokee CRD 2.5 from UK and Ireland

Summary:

The car is a pile of dung

Faults:

Well, where does one start?

About six months ago I picked up my 2001 Jeep Cherokee. The dealer gave me a good price, or so I thought at the time. Fair play, he told me that the manifold gasket needed replacing, and allowed for that by way of reducing the price by 500 euros. Little did I know that I had bought a pile of dung. Next thing was the rocker head gasket, costing more money.

Now not much more than four thousand miles later, I had to have a new clutch fitted.

Just yesterday a coolant problem: I put it in, and it seems to be pouring out the overflow, and the coolant warning light comes back on not long after I refill it. From what I've seen here, I'd say my problem is much worse than that, so it's back again to the garage at the weekend. If the head gasket's gone, I don't know what I'll do.

Absolute disaster. Period.

General Comments:

I always liked the cool look of the Cherokee and Wrangler Jeeps, but have been left very disappointed with so many faults, costing so much money.

Would you buy another car from this manufacturer? No

Review Date: 4th December, 2007

2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport 4.0 I6 from North America

Summary:

Rugged, dependable, good value

Faults:

A/C does not work, leaks from evaporator in dash, not worth fixing.

All problems occured over 100K Miles:

R/F Axle U Joint, L/F Wheel Bearing, Upper Radiator Hose, Rear Wheel Cylinders causing complete rear brake job.

Front driveshaft squeaks in cold weather.

Power window lock is stuck on, causing windows to only work from drivers control.

Had to replace speaker wire to front speakers.

Trunk would not open, when finally opened, only had to adjust latch.

Lug nuts chrome caps fell off, replaced with new lug nuts.

Consistently with the vehicle, everything is rusted/seized up and breaks whenever something needs to be replaced. Makes working on vehicle very aggravating.

Aftermarket accessories: Chrome grille from limited edition Cherokees, 2.5" Lift Kit, Performance Custom Exhaust, K&N Cold Air Intake, Pioneer Premier stereo, window tint, 30" BfGoodrich All Terrain Tires.

Maintenance items: Steering damper, tune up with platinum plugs, synthetic oils, premium gas only with fuel additives often, transfer case, front differential and rear differential flush.

General Comments:

Overall, I have loved this vehicle. It is very rugged, powerful, and a solid vehicle. With the work I have done to this vehicle, it has suited me well. The gas mileage is terrible for the size of the vehicle. I do have larger tires and a lift kit, but even before gas mileage was bad. I get between 14-15 mpg.

With the aftermarket accessories I have put into it, this vehicle performs well. Plenty of power from the 4.0L

The vehicle shakes, squeaks, rattles, etc. but that is expected of a Jeep.

When I needed a new vehicle, I looked for other Toyotas, but the cost was too high. I bought my Jeep for $6200 when a 4Runner or Pathfinder with similar options were closer to $10,000. But it was hard to find a Jeep that was not in terrible mechanical condition.

Overall, just take care of the Jeep and it will be a good vehicle.

Would you buy another car from this manufacturer? Yes

Review Date: 19th October, 2007

25th Apr 2008, 18:32

Yeah that's one thing Chrysler fails miserably in, making lug nuts, and not just Jeep; old and new Rams and Dakotas, not to mention Sebrings.

2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport 4.0 from North America

Summary:

I really like the Jeep, but seems to have front end issues consistently; electrical and AC issues

Faults:

Vibrating front end at freeway speeds; (I had a 1989 Jeep Pioneer previously, got 212,000 miles on that one.) I did have the shaking in the front end going 55-65 mph on both my 1989 and 2000 Cherokee, it's the track bar--- it seems to go bad over 50,000+. Sometimes replacing the steering stabilizer will fix it; I replaced that and track bar on my previous jeep that fixed it. I think now the track bar is an after market part. I'd try that first if it's cheaper. On my current Jeep I was going to replace the track bar, but found that if I just grip the steering wheel harder when I encounter potholes etc., I can compensate for the shaking.

A/C: On my 2000 model currently the AC has not worked for one year, it went out at about 68,000 miles. I had it recharged and dye put in 3 times, but they can't see a leak; somebody just pulled up the carpet on front passenger side under the dash & looked up and saw dye under the dash, which means it's the evaporator core in dash. Not sure I want to drop $1200 for the core on a car that I still owe $4000 on.

Window controls: I had this problem since 31,000 miles; the front and rear passenger window controls won't work. I have to use the control on the drivers panel, rather than pay again to have it fixed; I had it fixed once before not worth it since I have few passengers.

General Comments:

At 78000 miles on my 2000 Cherokee Sport, I have a lot of noise in the front end and getting louder for several months; it sounded like wheel bearings so I had both changed L/R and it still sounded like a locomotive under the front end, I really can't tell which side it's coming from since its too loud, I thought it was noisier on the left so I had that one done first, then the right when that didn't take care of the noise. Usually with wheel bearings theres a thunk thunk thunk with each rotation of the wheel. On my last Jeep a 1999 Cherokee Pioneer I had to replace the front wheel bearings at about 100,000 miles. The thunk is gone now, but there is something else making a big roar in the front end. It was hard to isolate the noise because it seems to be travelling out to the transfer case and is hard to isolate the sound to one part, but to me it sounds like it's coming from right in front of the steering column.

Help needed here:

So next my mechanic checked the bearings in the front differential by opening it up, removed the seal, drained and checked the gear oil to see if there was flecks of metal in it, which there was a lot I saw it.

He said it means the wheel bearings are shot, the metal flecks shouldn't be in the gear oil, they are from the bearings wearing down and then that metal gets into the bearings and gears. He thinks the noise is coming from the differential due too bad bearings. The diff. is in the right spot for where I hear the noise coming from, it sounds like its right in front of the steering column, which is right where the front differential is located. His estimate is $900 to do 7 hours of labor (California labor rates) and replace the four bearings. What about the gears, does he need to change them too? The est. sounds high, does anybody know about this problem?

Joanneboyland@comcast.net.

Would you buy another car from this manufacturer? No

Review Date: 8th September, 2007

5th Nov 2007, 20:53

As far as the AC problem goes, I'll bet you 20.00 bucks that Freon from your AC is leaking from one of the dispenser caps (The place where they put the A/C freon in). It happened to me and it's hard to detect because the dye leaks from the cap and it takes about a day to leak out. My advice would be to locate the caps (have the idiot mechanic show you where he puts it in), and after about 4 hours check under either one of those caps and you'll find the dye coming out under the cap. (YOU NEED TO REPLACE THE AC HOSE; TOTAL COST 200.00)