20th Nov 2007, 13:23
I Also too have a 2001 Cherokee with the 4.0L I-6. and I also have had problems with a Misfire, I changed the plugs with no avail, Next I replaced the Fuel Injector on the Cylinder that was misfiring and BINGO fixed the problem No more Misfire, So anyone that is dealing with a Cylinder 6 misfire and have changed plugs try the injector it is Very Easy to fix and Easy to access, JUST REMEMBER to Bleed off the Fuel Pressure At the Pressure Relief Valve at the front of the Fuel rail before removing Injector or you will be covered in gas!! HOPE THIS helps all you fellow Cherokee Owners!!
22nd Nov 2007, 09:12
I have a 2001 Jeep Cherokee Sport, and like many others have had multi cylinder misfires. The mechanic at my dealership said the coil pack was burned out because of all the misfires. This is the second time its been replaced. Has any one had this happen to them?
Of course I know of no way of knowing if the coil pack even needed to be replaced. And now the mechanic is suggesting I have the engine De carbonized. You would have thought that would have been the first thing he would have done before replacing two coil packs.
30th Nov 2007, 18:22
I bought a 2004 Grand Cherokee Sports V6. At 48k the engine light came on for a day, and then went off the next day. What is the cause?
10th Jan 2008, 18:07
I own a 2001 Jeep Cherokee 6 cyl and had check engine light turn on. I was told it had 4 errors. cyl #1 misfired twice, cyl #4 once and emission issue. I replaced the fuel cap and gave 'er a tune up and started to use use a cleaner high octane (91 or 92) fuel.
These motors are thirsty and the Daimler/Chrysler motors run strong with high octane fuel. It is costly, but then I get 195 horse power with torque enough to pull and launch my boat.
Hope this helps.
JD from Seattle.
13th Feb 2008, 20:30
I also own a 2001 Jeep Cherokee. It has close to 100,000 miles. The advice to hold in the trip reset button, turn the key to the run position, then release the reset button is very good. When my check engine light comes on (once or twice a year) I do this routine to see if there are any error codes. But doing this doesn't clear the check engine light. So, after checking to make sure there are no codes, I simply remove the battery (positive) cable, count to 10 and reconnect it. Check engine light is gone! If there are error codes, I write them down and take it to the dealer. I love my Jeep!
20th Feb 2008, 19:39
To the person with the 2001 jeep with 100k miles, where did you find what the codes meant? I have had the check engine light on for 20k miles and I can't seem to get it fixed. I have changed the plugs, new gas cap, O2 sensors with no success.
15th Mar 2008, 15:23
I have a 2001 Jeep Cherokee Sport. My check engine light is on again. The dealer told me it's the gas cap when filling up. The Jeep is running fine. So all I did was disconnect the battery, wait 20 minutes and put it back on. Now the check engine light is off and has not gone on for a while. That did the trick. Hope this helps.
18th Mar 2008, 17:45
I also have a 2001 Cherokee Sport. I had the same problems with the check engine light and the rough idling, and lost a little mileage. After doing all the things mentioned in this thread, I was told by a very knowledgeable gentleman at the auto parts store to check the fuel injectors, because the plastic housing around the injectors are known to develop little cracks. If you aren't able to see all the way behind them, run your finger around the back and feel. Lo and behold, one was cracked. Replaced it and there have been no more problems with misfire codes... only the annoying one that regularly happens with the gas cap.
7th Apr 2008, 11:47
I have just bought an immaculate 2001 Cherokee Sport. This is my first Jeep and I could not be more pleased with it. I looked at a few before purchasing this particular one, and they all (except mine) seemed to have a similar problem. The front and rear passenger windows did not work from the door switches... only from the master switch. Any other problems like this out there? Any suggestions in case it happens to mine?
9th Apr 2008, 10:17
Like most people on this blog, I have recently purchased a 2001 Cherokee which has displayed the infamous "check engine" light after about 14,000 miles. I brought the Jeep to a local Chrysler dealership thinking that the warranty I purchased would cover any engine related issues. (Otherwise, I would have never have brought it there) The mechanic just called me to say it needs about 2,400 dollars worth of work, (cat converter, vacuum tubes, rear brakes, etc.) none of which is covered by the warranty I bought. Needless to say, I told him to go ahead with 0% of his recommendations. They will however be sticking me with a $92.50 diagnostics fee.
PS I have also had the window power problems. Just give the driver's side switch box a light tap with your fist and look for the green light to turn on in the window switches on the other doors. It's as simple as that, but you have to do it often.
9th Apr 2008, 16:26
I have a 2001 Cherokee Sport. The check engine light is on since I bought it 2 months ago. The engine runs great but I am about to do all the things mentioned in this thread to see what turns out. Thanks for all the great advice!
20th Apr 2008, 17:06
I own an immaculate 2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport 4.0. After 50 miles air bag switch in steering column broke. At 35 k an oil leak developed. At 45 k I had to replace a fuel injector. Intermittent problem include the passenger widow switch not working, the hatch open indicator light comes on when door is shut, the power lock for the hatch stopped working even when replaced, Rear widow wiper no longer works. Seems to be short in the wiring system for the rear of car or a computer malfunction. Check engine light periodically goes on and off (on right now). And this Currently 98 K on car and runs well. Very poor gas mileage however. Dealer never ever was a help. The funny thing is I like this vehicle but I will never buy another Chrysler product. I'm sure I'm forgetting a few things.
18th Jun 2008, 05:00
To everybody troubled with either engine cut outs, or misfires. Open the relay box, remove the relay marked ASD, (it just pulls out), and swap it with the relay marked 'Fuel Pump', (they are rated the same). If you notice a marked improvement in the running, replace both relays. They cost UK £3.50 each from an auto elec shop, (About $1.25 US). I had a cut out problem for weeks before trying this. On opening up the old ASD (Auto Shut Down) relay, I found that the points were burnt away to nothing, which caused the MAP to shut down the fuel and ignition. Very cheap solution for a common problem.