6th Feb 2008, 19:12
Well all, I have a 2000 JGC with a twist. I to am having the oil pressure gauge go to 0 at idle, once it is warmed up. The engine sounds no different, but the gauge just drops to 0. When I rev up the rpms the pressure on the gauge goes back up and when I'm driving the gauge sits just right. THE TWIST, I have the V8 engine, not the V6. I'm getting nervous with how much its going to cost me to fix. I'm the 2nd owner, the first babied her for 40,000 miles, and I only just hit 100,000 miles. Any suggestions on what to do first would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
7th Feb 2008, 17:32
After reading the comments here I feel lucky. 2000 GCL w the 4.0L I6. its currently in the shop getting its 4th radiator. I guess I'm lucky because there was never doubt that the radiator was cracked every time; Id walk out to my truck and be greeted with a puddle of AntiFreeze.
I'm lucky because I found this "great deal on an SUV" at a Lexus dealership. Bought the extended warranty from LEXUS. and take it to a LEXUS dealership for repairs. And guess what... I get to ride around town in a LEXUS while they fix it for free... :)
BTW I will have a 200 GCL for sale next week.
9th Feb 2008, 11:34
I have a 2000 Jeep GCL with 85,000 miles and am also having a coolant leakage problem. The mechanic can find no fluid leaks, but the pressure increases when idle and I'm adding coolant weekly. Last month the oil pressure gauge kept dropping to zero when idle - that was replaced and have had no problems since. I bought this new and and had many brake problems the first year - but I was notified of a class action suit about the brakes and filed a claim. It took almost three years, but I received a check yesterday for $130 - a fraction of what it cost me. Otherwise, I love my jeep and hope it lasts a lot longer.
12th Feb 2008, 15:16
I was going to purchase a Cherokee in the UK, cheaper price, but sellers advertised the problems, honest sellers? But I will be looking to another make; maybe Jeep has a similar marketing mentality to Land Rover?
16th Feb 2008, 21:30
I too have had the same problems I changed three door actuators that cost me close to 500.00. Rotors that cost me 200.00. And the fan relay that cost me 80.00 to replace.
21st Feb 2008, 15:13
I have all the problems that you guys are mentioning. If somebody file a claim, I will sign it. I do not speak or write well English otherwise I would do it myself. Somebody has to take action. This problems should be corrected by the auto maker. Mi e-mail address is rayriver@earthlink.net.
25th Feb 2008, 21:41
I just bought a used (new to me) 2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport with 140,000 miles on it. I bought this after me 1998 Cherokee Sport was totaled (t-boned, not my fault) with 180000 miles on it. No problems with the 1998 I6 4.0L at all... BUT-
I got the 2000 Cherokee from a dealer with the worst looking oil I have ever seen. It was charcoal gray and felt strange between my fingers so I immediately got the oil changed (after running Motor Flush through it) with Castrol 5w30, got an injector cleaning, checked/topped off all fluids.
I then drove 125 miles back home at highway speeds (65-75) with no problems. The oil pressure seemed a little low, but not bad- different than my old I6 4.0L. Engine had plenty of power and it seemed fine. Then I got off at my exit and stopped for traffic and my oil pressure gauge went to zero and the 'Check Gauges' light came on. I accelerated and the oil pressure came up again as I drive. It wasnt at the 10 to 1000 RPM ratio, but not too far off.
I got home and parked it over night. Next morning I started it and the oil pressure to half-way on the gauge. This is Wisconsin and about 30 degrees... I drove for a bit and pressure stayed up, then after about ten minutes, at a stop sign, the same thing happened. Oil pressure at zero, the 'check gauges' light appeared.
It is freaking me out. I went out a bought a replacement oil pump (high volume) and five more d@mn quarts of Castrol 5w30. Given the mileage on the truck I figured that the higher volume (10-20% more oil pressure) wasnt a bad thing... I never, ever tow anything and I don't really off-road save for all the snow/ice here in WI. I am betting on it being that the oil pump needs to be replaced- it is OEM and the same one that has been on there all along I think.
I almost bought an oil pressure switch because I want this to be a cheap fix (lol), but I figured better safe than sorry. Since I never one this kind of problem with my 98 I6 4.0L I am at a loss. Despite owning this Jeep for less than a week I am seeing my coolant starting to disappear from the reserve as well. Ugh.
UPDATE: I had a mechanic plug an oil pressure gauge in where the oil sensor goes- the pressure it 5 at idle (book says it should be 13), and when revved up it doesnt even make it halfway to the 10 to 1000 RPM scale.
I've bought a high volume (not pressure) Melling oil pump and my mechanic is putting it in two days. I also did some research on other Jeep sites and learned that after the pump goes in I should run some CD2 Maxx oil detergent additive to it, drive it for 2000 miles and then at the oil change ask to look at the oil filter to see if it is gunked up. We'll see.
I just PRAY that it is oil pump (or a clogged screen) and not something like the bearings.
28th Jan 2008, 17:08
I also have a 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee 6 cylinder. It's amazing to see so many people having the exact same experience as what I've had to endure. It has about 130000 miles on it.
A couple of years ago the engine was overheating, but no coolant loss issue. I took it to Pepboys and they fixed it.. Dunno what they did.
Last month, right after I got back from an oil change, I noticed the "Coolant Low' indicator. I checked and the coolant was in fact low. Thought the Jiffy lube oil change people had forgotten to top it off. But then I kept losing coolant and had to put in a jug every week.
Last week when I was stuck in traffic, the engine started to overheat and check engine lights came off. Had to get it towed to the nearest service station, which was Sears. They called me this morning saying they didn't know what the problem was and I should take it to a dealer. The fan is not kicking in, so they say it could be a temp sensor, or after reading the forums I'm thinking fan relay or any number of things that have been mentioned. But just like everyone else, I may never find out.
UPDATE: Today I went to pick up the car from Sears. I started the engine and put coolant in the radiator. And then topped off the reservoir as well. I drove back home (20 miles) and the engine temp remained steady at 210. I'll wait and see if it gives me trouble again.