25th May 2007, 09:32
I'm so glad that I'm not the only one having this purge valve issue with the '06 Mazda 3! I had the purge valve replaced 2 weeks ago under warranty... only to have the check engine light come on again and the dealership told me they have to replace the purge valve again. I'm thinking-- the same part in 2 weeks?! Very inconvenient. But here in Alabama, at least the guys at the dealership are super friendly/helpful/understanding... but even that fact doesn't curb my annoyance with this issue. The car has 27,000 miles on it.
13th Jul 2007, 13:20
Bought a 2007 3i in 12/06. Brake sensors clogged with snow causing an idiot light in 3/07 @ 3k miles. No big deal, but annoying. Now in 7/07 the idiot light is on again at 5k, dealership says it is a faulty purge valve, and are replacing under warranty. Mazda has been very good with service and questions, but it would be nice if things would work as intended in the first place.
Side note, in 4/07 our garage door spring broke and smacked the roof of the new 3i. Make sure you have safety cables running through those things, they can be costly (or deadly)!
20th Dec 2007, 18:09
The squeak coming from the seat originates from the spring washer where the seat belt latch bolts on near the floor, I put some rust check oil on it two years ago and it never came back!
I do have a small rattle coming from the engine compartment while driving when the engine is reving at a low RPM, no other issues with the car 55000Km.
11th Feb 2008, 23:03
I have a 2007 Mazda 3 (US version), and yeah, it was definitely the spring washer making the squeaking noise in my seat. I guess they haven't changed the design since 2004.
Thanks for the tip! I probably never would have found the annoying squeak.
19th Mar 2008, 19:44
In regard to some of the older comments about the fuel pump, I just had to have mine replaced on my 2004 Mazda 3 (38k miles). The warranty was up, but Mazda subsidized it. It still does not start sometimes after long drives... which makes it very unpredictable! There is some other electrical problem going on, and I already had to replace the rear brake pads! I still have to rev the engine to make it start after long drives...! Ideas?