My 2005 five Sportwagon has an on board computer problem that cuts the throttle off when you downshift... Four repairs later I still have the same issue. They have stopped replacing the throttle body and tell me they don't know what's causing the problem. I owned this car six days when this started... eight months later it does this all the time, engine light goes on, car bucks, runs, but barely. I pull off the road in commuter traffic into NYC. I sit... then the car will start OK with the engine light on... then when it sits overnight the engine light will be off the next morning.
It's probably done this 12-15 times...it's a beautiful lemon.
I have an '03 and it rattled the day I drove it off the lot, when it was brand new. There was a nick in the headliner as if they had dropped it during assembly, it would squeak when going over bumps. The dealership didn't do anything, but press on it until it went away, of course it was back in a week.
Now, 50K miles later, everything squeaks and rattles. The cup holder, sunglass holder, and all four doors. I've given up on chasing down all of the sources of the sounds, now I just turn up the radio.
I purchased a 2004 Mazda6 wagon and have 16600 miles. I really like the car and feel it handles much better than the 2004 Honda Accord v6 I owned prior to this. I do have a rattling problem in the dash and find it annoying. The dealer had it for one day and did not hear the rattle. Funny, but it does seem to come and go. I plan to bring it up to the dealer again and see if he can fix it. Other than that no problems.
I purchased a 2005 Mazda 6 and sometimes when I pull out in front of traffic or just pull out onto a road at all the entire car dies. The engine lights come on and the steering locks up. I can't move off the road even if I wanted to. I have to turn the car off and then turn it back on. I have brought it to the shop four times and they keep telling me it is the throttle body. I believe they need to get another phrase. The rattling in the dash and door drives me nuts. They say they don't hear it. I feel as if I have a lemon and there is nothing I can do about it. I will never buy a Mazda again.
I own a 2004 Mazda 6 Sport-wagon. It now has 66 000 km (41 000 miles). I just brought it in for the fourth time to have the dash squeak fixed. It always comes from the junction between the dash and the windshield on the passenger side. Last time they made me pay. Now they are going to have to fix it until it is right. Every time the noise re-appeared after a month.
Other squeaks include the break pedal and now the drive belt. After taking it in twice they finally discovered that oil leaks onto the belt which makes it squeal.
Other problems I have had include having the disks machined after 12000 km (8 000 miles) then they changed them after 40 000 km now, 8 month later they have to machine them again because they vibrate once more. They finally diagnosed that the pads are sticking.
Also had the fan control module replaced since the fan would continuously fluctuate from fast to slow, sometimes for minutes after the keys were removed from the car.
These are always fixed under warranty, but it is a real hassle.
Car is great to drive, but I think it likes to go back to its mommy (dealer) to much...
I have a 2005 Mazda 6 that I purchased new. It developed a sort of dry bearing noise after 1000Kms and Mazda say it is the clutch in the alternator, not detrimental to the car and common in that model. I am not happy as it wasn't there when I bought the car, it isn't in every Mazda 6 and sounds shocking like a dry bearing when you switch the engine off. I'd be interested to hear if anyone else has experienced similar.
I purchased a brand new 2005 Mazda6 earlier in 06. I have had no problems with the car until this weekend when I noticed the Check Engine Light was on. I checked the manual and looked for all the things that would give this alert. But nothing out of the ordinary. I even called up a friend who had the same car and he mentioned that the car has a tendency to do this and to wait a couple of days. Sure enough the next day the light turned off however, I started noticing a slight clicking sound during light gassing. This has happened at least 3 times over 2 days and only after driving high speeds 60+ mph. Coincidentally I had no issues prior to the only oil change performed by the dealership 3 weeks ago. I suspect the dealership either did not put ehough oil in (no oil warning light) or put in the wrong viscosity. I will take this to a local shop and see if they can make an accurate level reading.
I purchased an '05 Mazda 6 in August 2005 and am currently (Oct 24/06) experiencing the same jolt as was previously mentioned on this message board. When I try passing someone on the highway and I'm in the 6th gear, it goes to the 4th or 5th and then when it tries to go back to the 6th the car jolts. I sent it 3 times to the dealer and most recently, they had it for 13 days before they gave it back to me insisting there is no problem. They flashed it and reset the CAM shaft. It has improved, but it still jolts a little. I don't know what to do???
Why not try a Mazda 3 next time? I have a Mazda 3 2-lite Sport 4 door, and have only ever experienced two rattles. Once when someone inadvertantly left a £1 coin in the door pocket, and the rattle the missus gives me every time we get in the car...
Your dealer should be able to take care of the latter complaint and make sure your missus don't rattle no more.
Anyone have mazda6's burning oil? paid $2.000 for a mechanic to tell me none of the factory rings have ever seated. I have 30,000 miles on it dealer telling me I caused it with cold air induction kit. If that's the case I would have 20,000 miles of normal ware in motor. Kit put on 10,000 miles ago. Mechanic says rings have ever seated from factory. Dealer telling me I voided warranty and caused problem, being tossed like a yoyo. Have kids they need to eat. Dealer saying it will cost $10,000 to repair. :- (