I have had a loss of power and the check engine light started coming on at around 60,000 miles. The light will stay on for one or two days then go off.
For everyone that has a 626 with over 20,000 mile and the check engine light is coming on you may have a bad Oxygen Sensor. This will be the sensor that is located on the tail pipe just before the Catalytic Converter. This is a big problem with all Mazda 626's. This is the only real problem that I have had with my car.
Would you buy another car from this manufacturer? Yes
Review Date: 29th September, 2003
9th Jun 2005, 14:25
I had the same problem at 100,000 miles.
8th Jan 2007, 17:49
I had the same problem with the O2 sensor at about the same mileage. Bought mine new in 99. It now has 150,000 miles on it. At 120K I replaced the timing belt, water pump, O2 sensor, clutch and front brakes (original). Total cost around $2K. Prior to this the accelerator pedal was sticky, and I fixed that myself by removing and cleaning the throttle body. Simple job for a backyard mechanic. I consider the maintenance pretty inexpensive. Others' problems seem to come from used vehicles that were abused. I replaced the headliner at 100K. Had to re-glue the weatherstripping on all the doors, but have averaged over 32MPG since day 1 - and I have the records to prove it. I won't buy another 626, but only because they don't make them any more. Darn.
1999 Mazda 626 LX 2.0L 16v DOHC from North America
A disaster on wheels
One day about 2 weeks after getting this car, I was low on gas, and it started sputtering and would stall while accelerating. I did what anyone else would do in this situation and fueled it up. Immediately after, it sputtered for a few more red lights, then it was fine. Or so I thought. A month later, it started sputtering and hesitating again, only this time, I had a full tank. Now, when I bought this car, it wasn't from a Mazda dealer, it was used and at a large and unnamed dealership. It had a 2 month/2,000 mile limited warranty on it. When this problem started, I was already over the 2,000 miles by 43 miles. I should know, since I took it in for service, and they wouldn't do anything except clean the injectors for $113. Now anywhere I go, I have to shut off the A/C every time I come to a stop. This is really insane, since I live off of US 19 in Florida, and if you've been there, you'd know that you need a car that will accelerate on demand.
The car I traded in for this junk was a 1995 Chevy Cavalier. I am really sorry that I did, since that was the most reliable car I've ever had.
Would you buy another car from this manufacturer? No
Review Date: 13th September, 2003
1st Mar 2004, 11:49
If this is a 4 cylinder engine. The sputtering is actually caused by the spark plugs and not by the fuel injectors. The problem originates from that fact that the plugs are located at the top of the valve cover and the spark plug boots do not seal good. This in turn, allows moisture to pool around the plug, causing arcing from the plug to the block. The best way to remedy this is to buy four packs of $0.99 boot lubricant. Put a good bead around the bottom the boot where the plug goes in and a good bead around the top of the boot. This will prevent the arcing and you should see a noticeable difference.
6th Aug 2004, 06:06
I have a 1998 626 LX 4 cylinder that's been sputtering for several months. I replaced the plugs and went through a lot of dry gas. But the solution to the sputtering problem for me was the previous comment about lubricating the spark plug boots. For five dollars the problem is fixed and I don't hate to drive the car anymore, even with the A/C on. Thanks to the guy for the easy fix.
21st Dec 2005, 13:21
If new spark plugs don't fix the problem, replace your fuel filter and air filter.
Average review marks: 6.0 / 10, based on 37 reviews