1988 Mazda B2200 Reviews - Page 7 of 8

1988 Mazda B2200 2.2 liter from North America

Year of manufacture1988
First year of ownership1988
Most recent year of ownership2001
Engine and transmission 2.2 liter Manual
Reliability marks 10 / 10
Comfort marks 3 / 10
Running Costs (higher is cheaper) 10 / 10
Overall marks (average of all marks)
7.7 / 10
Distance when acquired0 kilometres
Most recent distance160000 kilometres
Previous carFord Tempo

Summary:

A cheap vehicle with high reliability

Faults:

I had the truck for 13 years and only the exhaust, brakes and tires were replaced. I put a rebuilt starter (80.00) on at 100,000 k and that's all.

Wife blew the engine because of an engine coolant leak or I'd still be driving it. She didn't realize H means hot on temperature gauge.

General Comments:

A very reliable truck, worth every penny.

Only complaint is the exhaust and body seem to be made of tinfoil.

Would you buy another car from this manufacturer? Yes

Review Date: 24th February, 2001

28th Jul 2006, 17:28

Tinfoil doesn't rust (and is sturdier) :0) Otherwise, they are awesome trucks.

1988 Mazda B2200 2.2L carburated from North America

Year of manufacture1988
First year of ownership2000
Most recent year of ownership2000
Engine and transmission 2.2L carburated Manual
Performance marks 5 / 10
Reliability marks 2 / 10
Comfort marks 3 / 10
Running Costs (higher is cheaper) 2 / 10
Overall marks (average of all marks)
3.0 / 10
Distance when acquired175000 kilometres
Most recent distance185000 kilometres
Previous carToyota SR5 4X4

Summary:

Must have been made on a Friday at 4pm!

Faults:

Replaced: Head gasket, head, carburettor, gas tank (leaked on half seam).

On cold days here in Canada, the choke picks the odd day that it wants to work, other days it just makes the engine hesitate. The truck only gets 15 mpg because no one can tune the electronic carburettor on this thing. Smokes heavily on startup, then quits when warm even though the head is new and compression is 165 lbs.

Rear differential is now making a noise and vibrating the truck.... will likely go next!

General Comments:

This appears to be a vehicle very sensitive to how it was maintained. Not knowing how it was taken care of previously, it could likely be the problem. I work with a guy who has 400,000 km on one and he swears by it. I will not buy another one.

I would go back to a Toyota in a heart beat if I could justify the over-inflated prices!

Would you buy another car from this manufacturer? No

Review Date: 14th December, 2000

1st Feb 2001, 22:28

Funny, I just rolled 460K km's on mine, no oil consumption and runs without a hiccup... (well, sometimes it'll chuggle).

21st Feb 2001, 12:25

I am also from Canada (i.e. Mississauga), and have the same vehicle; it has shown symptoms similar to yours. I thought that the choke was stuck on cold days, which caused the engine to rev high and waste gas - even with the engine fully-warmed. Yesterday, I discovered that the problem was not the choke at all - it was the EGR valve!

The EGR valve is a pollution-control device. Its job is to reduce NOx emissions by keeping the temperature of the combustion chamber at just below 1371 degrees C (2500 F). It does so by recirculating a small percentage of the exhaust gas back into the engine (i.e. less than 10%); it has an effect similar to spraying your backyard barbeque with a small amount of water when it flares-up.

On a Mazda B2200, according to the owner's manual, the EGR valve should be replaced every 96 000 km. It is quite simple to replace yourself; this process should take no more than 10 minutes of your time, although the dealer would charge for one flat-rate hour of labour. However, this part is not cheap. According to the Mazda price list, a new EGR valve for this vehicle is CD$228.57 + applicable taxes; the aluminum gasket that goes with it is another $2.53 (you should always order one when replacing it). The procedure for replacing it is as follows:

1. Make sure that the engine is off before proceeding.

2. Locate the old EGR valve; it is located under the hood on the passenger side under the air cleaner assembly (You do not need to remove this assembly to find it! Look to the left side of the engine block.). It is mounted to the engine block over the gasket, and is secured with three bolts.

3. Disconnect the vacuum line that connects to the EGR valve.

4. Loosen each of the bolts, and it should come right off. Remember the orientation of the gasket before taking the bolts out.

5. Unplug the EGR valve.

6. Mount the new EGR valve over the new gasket, making sure the gasket is in the correct orientation. Do not overtighten the bolts.

7. Plug-in the EGR valve.

8. Reconnect the vacuum line.

31st May 2001, 07:33

I just wish I could expect ANY vehicle to go 175 thousand miles and over a decade with out needing a completely new engine. And for half the price of a comparable Chevy or Ford.

My 91 has 107,000 miles on it and I have worked on the brakes three times (fairly inexpensive), and the exhaust once (although is currently in need again).

My opinion, not worth complaining about.

Average review marks: 7.3 / 10, based on 23 reviews