29th Aug 2002, 07:23

What screw in the oil pump are you referring to?

Are you saying remove the pressure regulator and it's spring?

How do you know you're doing 125-130mph, when the speedo only goes to 110?

...also, hopefully you don't have to go through any emissions tests where you live.

The PCV fix you described is called a "Road Draft Tube". This was common on all vehicles before the 1968 emissions laws took effect.

If you go for an Emissions test and they see that tube, you'll flunk, RIGHT NOW.

They're not "environmentally friendly", and that's why you don't see them anymore (except on OTR vehicles).

Hope to hear a reply soon,

Dean Seaman.

22nd Sep 2002, 21:44

Hi, I drive a 1987 Mazda B2000 Se-5, I was reading about the engine mods someone said you can do to improve speed. I was wondering if you could tip me in on how to do these or anything like that? Thanks.

6th Oct 2002, 17:20

I would be highly suspect of the performance claims you read about in the earlier reply.

As I stated in response, how does this person know they're doing 125-130 mph when the speedo only goes to 110.


Also, I've done some looking around in the 10 years I've owned my truck and there aren't a whole lot of "speed parts" available for that engine.

This isn't a small block Chevy.

Crane MAY make a performance cam for that engine.

Headers? I've never seen a manufacturer list one. Possibly Clifford, as they do make some 4-cylinder stuff, but I'm pretty sure it would be for the older engine.

Even from reading that person's description of the "headers" they put on their engine, it doesn't sound to me like they've actually placed headers on it, but rather a "straight pipe", which would simply have a flange that mates to the stock exhaust manifold and connects to the stock pipe, replacing the first stage, or "pre-cat" Catalytic converter.

This still leaves another catalytic converter downstream, in the traditional location (about 2 feet in front of the muffler).

By definition, this is not a "header".

A Header is a replacement piece for the entire exhaust manifold (or manifold assy.) consisting of a flange (or flanges) which bolts to and seals against the exhaust ports on the cylinder head, then uses a series of individual pipes that all lead down to either a single or multiple collect (s). The exhaust pipe then connects to this (these) collector (s) and continues on down from there.

Also, 6-7 second 0-60 times?

Those times are indicative of a vehicle which would be able to cover a 1/4 mile in around 15 seconds.

This means one would be traveling at approx. 90-95 mph at the end of a 1/4 mile.

I've driven my truck flat out, at a time when it was still fairly new, and the speedo only got up to 93 mph.

It took a lot longer than 1/4 mile to reach that speed.

Considering the "improvements" that person listed doing to their truck, the numbers they boast just don't seem realistic.

The hotter coil idea does have merit though and I've been thinking of doing something similar to my own truck.

The hotter spark would aid more in drivability and fuel efficiency than any real "seat-of-the-pants" power gains, but like all things, should be part of a "collective" of improvements.

In this case, I would accessorize the hotter coil with larger diameter plug wires (such a set of 8.8mm wires) and open the spark plug gap a little, increasing from a.32" plug gap (stock) to maybe a.40" spark plug gap.

I was once told that electricity flows like water.

For the same amount of water to flow, it will take longer for the water to flow through a small pipe, compared to a larger one, and it'll be harder to get that water to flow through the smaller pipe at the same speed than through the larger one, which will be indicated by a higher water pressure reading in the small pipe.

Same with electricity.

Every time that coil goes off, there a certain amount of electricity that flows through any of the wires.

It's going to be harder to get that electricity to get to the plug if you use a small wire.

This can cause the wires to wear out prematurely, since that greater amount of electricity has to "force" it's way through the smaller wire.

The electricity will flow through the larger wire easier, ensuring better reliability and ensuring the plug sees all of that juice quicker (or all at the same time), allowing for a larger spark.

It's the larger, hotter spark that'll ensure you burn all of that air/fuel mixture and THAT'S what makes the difference in this particular case.

My B2200 uses a traditional style coil and I've been seeing ads for a coil made by MSD called a "Blaster 2".

It's reported that the output is 45KV, which is approx. double the output of the stock coil.

If this coil is to be put into the system, then would be to also...

...Use only the HIGHEST quality cap and rotor, as the hotter electrical charge is going to harder on that equipment as well.

Borg/Warner and Beck/Arnley make some very nice pieces, high quality that are priced competitively.

...Use a good quality wire. However it will have to be custom made, as no one makes a set of wire for the B2200 in anything other than a stock size (7mm. Making up spark plug wires is not really that complicated).

...Use good quality plugs. For plugs, I've had the best luck with AC's, regardless of vehicle.

Others will probably state another brand, but I've tried them all (Champion, Autolite, NGK, etc.) and have always had the best luck with AC.

Hope this helped.

Dean Seaman.

31st Oct 2002, 02:52

This is a response made to a response I made.

Look fellas, not everyone works under a shade tree. I said 125-130 and that's what I meant. Just because you haven't figured it out yet don't mean I haven't.

I had to come up with and make everything I did to my truck. Including the headers. And to answer any questions you may have, nope, no smog laws other than converters. And if I'm not mistaken, Flowmaster makes them. But I don't run any. Camshaft was made by an engine builder near me.

But! What I did, you can do also! I learn from my mistakes. And couldnt be happier.

I won't try to argue with anyone about my abilities or knowledge. So, let me just say. MEET ME AT THE DRAG STRIP!!!

16th Feb 2003, 15:37

I realize this "thread" was started a year ago, but I have a question for you. The timing belt broke on my Mazda, at about 270,000 km. I need to take the bolt off of the crankshaft, and wondered if the thread is reversed. I don't want to reef on it one way, and strip it. Also, are there any good on-line manuals for this type of thing, in case I need reference? (changing a timing belt)

Thanks a bunch,


20th Feb 2003, 13:36

Hi my name is George and I am the second owner of a Mazda B2200 that my father gave me. Its been properly maintained and is still running at 200,000+ miles. We recently replaced the carburetor, and engine sensors, and the muffler.

Right now I have a critical problem and don't know what it is. I was driving for about 80 miles on the freeway and it was dark so I had my lights on, and all of the sudden my stereo goes out and my lights start to slowly dim away. As I apply pressure to the brakes, the lights go out completely. I almost reached my destination, it was 5 miles away. I continued to drive with very dim lights. I made it through the night, but I parked it in a parking structure. The following day, it would not start. I tried to start it by pushing it down the parking structure and releasing the clutch in second gear. That didn't work. I also tried getting it to start by jumper cables, that too didn't help.

I then decided to check the fuse box under the steering wheel. All of the fuses seemed to be OK, and I also checked the ones under the hood. They are in a black box and there are 3 of them. (80A, 30A, 30A) Those were OK as well.

Another thing that I noticed was that the engine lights would not turn on as I turned the key. They are suppose to turn on at the ON Position.

I know it could not be the battery, the lights were super bright and the horn was very loud. All the electrical seemed to work, but not the cigarette lighter, stereo, or the engine lights (check engine, brake, oil, seat belts)

I don't know if it could be the alternator or starter or even both. There is no sound when I turn the key, and it won't start on a rolling start or jump start.


There is another problem, when my truck is cold, it backfires. Like a gun shot when I release the gas pedal after doing anything over 25mph. This noise is very loud, but as it warms up it disappears. I had to buy a new muffler because of this, and had my carburetor fixed. Yet it still didn't help. My guess is that its the catalytic converter under the manifold. I'm not quiet sure if its that, or if its something else. I know its not the catalytic converter that's on the muffler, because it still explodes before that.


You help is greatly appreciated.