3rd Dec 2008, 19:32
OMG you revved a b2200 to 5k rpms? These motors sound like they are going to blow at 3k! Maybe I'm just used to driving rotary engines... hah.
16th Dec 2008, 05:25
I have a 89 Mazda B2200, which is my first truck, and it runs fine on flat roads, but when I drive on one of our highways going up hill, it has a hard time even hitting 35 mph, whilst flooring it on a 55 mph highway. My truck holds up a lot of cars on the highway, and it's really a shame watching cars passing by, especially when I have a bunch of friends in the back.
I was thinking about about putting a Weber carb and some headers, but don't know what brand should I go for. Also if there's anything else I can do to make it faster or at least keep up with some cars going up hill, PLEASE LET ME KNOW...
25th Dec 2008, 19:25
I have a '92 B2200 2.2bl MT. It was given to me with a blown head gasket. A friend of mine and myself replaced the head gasket. He noticed that most of the vacuum lines were not routed correctly; he hooked them up as best as he could to where it ran again. I found a vacuum diagram, and hooked it up as close to the drawing as possible. I cannot find the mixture control valve that shows a vacuum line to it, and also a vacuum line that goes from the duty solenoid valve to the air cleaner.
Also, I have been trying to adjust the dwell, but my dwell meter does not swing varying from 20-70 deg. It will swing if I rev up the engine, but does not swing while idle. The truck runs good, but I'm only getting like 15 MPG. I should not nag about it, since it was a gift, but I enjoy tinkering with it, and am trying to get it to run its best.
6th Mar 2009, 22:46
I have a 1990 B2200 pickup. I have the same problem as a couple of people I've read about. It will start and idle, but as soon as I push the gas pedal it acts as if it is out of gas. It only does this occasionally though. Sometimes right after I start it, then it will stop or sometimes not. Or it will start and run good, then 5 miles down the road it's dying on me, and I idle home in second gear going 15 mph. I've read that it could be the fuel pump (it's fuel injected, with an in-tank pump), the vacuum lines, or the distributor giving bad signals. How do I test each one to narrow down the problem? Many thanks.
14th Apr 2009, 18:13
Hey, I have power to my coil, but I'm getting no spark. I have a 92 b2200 Mazda truck with fuel injection.
Does any one have a wiring diagram of the coil and the ECU? I think I have some wires crossed... I really have been hunting for a week and nothing.
layinsparxx@aol.com
29th Apr 2009, 00:16
I am currently trying to find a transmission for my 89 b2200. Anyone know were I might be able to find one?
11th Jul 2009, 06:17
I have a 89 b2200,paid $300.00 for it about 6 years ago.
Has nearly 275,000 miles. Best little truck I ever had. Over the years just did normal things, plugs,wires battery etc. put 1 clutch in.
The a.c. will freeze you. starts every day.. keeps on going.
13th Feb 2010, 11:04
February 13, 2010.
I find comments helpful. Thanks to everyone who participates. I just purchased a cab plus B2200. It has oil leaks and suffers power lost. Oh yeah, I get poor gas mileage too (approx. 12-14 mpg). I am tinkering with it seeking to close off the leaks. I'm no mechanic but I fix what I can to save. I wish to know what can be done to undue the oil pan from engine block. I've removed all screws. The oil pan is baked to the block. Any advice? Thanks.
3rd Mar 2010, 21:03
Hi, working on a 89 B2200, front crank seal is leaking bad. Pulled timing belt off, and now do you have to use a puller to get the crank pulley off, and then do you have to remove the lower casting that attaches to pan, or can you get the seal out once you get the crank pulley off?
30th Mar 2010, 06:02
Use a general pulley puller (can be rented ($40+) at your local parts store). I am curious though. How were you able to remove the timing belt without removing the pulley???
7th Apr 2010, 12:41
I just rebuilt my B2200. When I cranked it for the first time, it ran very good for about 5 minutes, and then a knock came from the valve cover and not a lifter tapping. It sounded like a rocker was hitting the V/C. I took the V/C off and cranked it, and there was no sound with plenty of oil pressure. Put it back on and the same thing, knocking. Took the V/C off and coated it with grease, and put it back on and no imprint in the grease. I had to put Val. 20w50 racing oil to break it in because of the removal of zinc from other oils. Could this be coming from the weight of the oil and over extending the crappy lifters?
Thanks for any help. bhtrod@aol.com
22nd Jun 2011, 12:38
I've got the same problem. My fuel pump is pumping out fuel and oil, not into the engine either. On the side of the pump closest to the firewall, there is a little hole where it should all be coming from, at least that is where mine was. It means that the diaphragm in the pump is blown, try replacing the pump. That's what I need to do, because I'm getting bad gas mileage.
21st Dec 2012, 01:13
I would really appreciate reading answers to the Feb 14 2007 question regarding water in the gas tank -- WAS a solution to this problem ever identified?
9th Mar 2013, 14:39
Have you tried replacing the in-tank sock filter and the under the hood fuel filter? Mine would get low fuel before I got out of first gear... and would run out of fuel going down freeway in fifth gear driving fast... Maybe I caught mine earlier. Hope this helps.
29th Apr 2013, 20:02
Why do you think this solved the problem? I'm just curious because I'm running 10w30 in it and it got louder. Is the difference in oil affecting the lifters that much?? I'm just curious because I bought an 89 B2200 and it's done nothing but drain my wallet. Thank you, though I'm gonna try switching the oil to 5w30 and see what happens.
12th Mar 2014, 12:55
Is it expensive for a front wheel alignment on a Mazda B2200, 1989 2 wheel drive?
How do I hollow out the catalytic converter by the motor?
31st Aug 2014, 15:48
There's 2 cats; 1 in the back that you can replace with a straight pipe. The other one is bolted to the motor's header, 3 bolts below and above, and a lot of little stuff to remove. Once you get it out, hollow it out with a hammer and pipe and put it back together.
30th Sep 2014, 20:16
If you check inside of your distributor, you will find the E.C.M. Electronic Control Module. There will be (2) screws and it slides out. The part is approximately $85-90 to buy new. This should fix your problem.
13th Jun 2015, 02:38
You should use 5-30w and put some Marvel Mystery Oil in. It's going to burn a little oil, but that's normal. I have 210k miles on my B2200 and mine knocks only if I haven't changed the oil in 4k miles.
25th Jun 2015, 23:02
There's a rubber cap that goes there to seal in the camshaft. You have to pull the cam journal caps to replace it. Clean it up real good and apply sealant to the outside edge of the cap.
23rd Jul 2015, 03:09
You will have to remove the intake and exhaust manifold for better clearance. Remove the timing chain, as we'll mark the pulleys and line them up before removing for an easier reinstall. It works for me that way; just make sure you don't rotate the motor once you remove head at all. Good luck.
20th Nov 2008, 12:15
I've seen several comments and questions about stalling engines, and no spark. I had the same problem with mine very intermittent. Had power at the coil, but it would stall. Sometimes restart sometimes just crank. Anyways it was the electronic control modual in the distributor. Replaced it for about $125 and the problem was gone!!!