25th May 2004, 11:50

The door ajar light problem is computer based and too expensive to fix, just undo the cain bulbs.

9th Jun 2005, 09:49

For the door ajar light and constant bell sounding problem, spray WD40 (with straw) liberally on the door lock. Then open and close door about ten times.

I just did this on my 95 Mazda B2300 and it worked like a charm! No more Ding Ding Ding!

28th Jul 2006, 19:29

Brothers! (or sisters!) My 1997 model no longer has a functioning gas gauge (finally went completely out in Feb. 2005) and the interior light has stuck since March 2000. I just use the tackometer for gas (over 200, start looking for a gas station) and would tell my wife when the light stuck at night to bring something to read. It only sticks, however, when the doors are opened repeatedly.

Other than that, the truck has been great. I'm at 196,000 and still going. Has anyone experienced problems with the cooling system? That's been the only nagging problem. But only twice has it not started in eight years - both due to dead battery.

30th Apr 2008, 14:49

I have a 97 B2300 with 85,000 miles. Since the warranty ran out, it has had four trips for Check Engine and each one cost $100-200, except the one last week. It cost $350 to replace the EIGHT spark plugs and EIGHT wires on a 4 cylinder engine.

It cost $300 three months ago to replace the fuel pump which quit working.

Now the gas gauge is not working and that is $300.

Also, the rubber tube connecting the tank to the filler tube is cracked and leaking and that is $440. Tube alone is $300.

Two different garages all say none of these are related - just aging.

IT'S A FORD! Don't buy one.

2nd Jun 2008, 13:19

Just bought a new Mazda B2300, and noticed that the mud guard that seals the left side of the engine from the drivers side wheel well is missing. It is just a flexible piece of rubber that stops dirt, sand, and salt from covering the motor from the spinning tire. The dealer tells me Mazda and Ford are leaving these off for a reason, but are not telling why. Can owners of the same truck say 2007, 2006, 2005, 2004, 2003, B series 2300, or Rangers, check and see if their truck has one, and if anyone could explain why it is left off please let me know.

Thanks Rick.

9th Jul 2008, 23:12

My Mazda B2300 1995 truck stopped running when driving it at 60kms. I've located that it is a fuel issue. When the engine tried to start there is no smell of gasoline. The pump does click revealing activation...

Could this simply be the filter that's clogged? I checked my fuel reset under the passenger dash and it seems fine.

If anyone can offer any advice I would appreciate the help.

13th Jul 2008, 08:48

Okay... I changed the fuel filter and found that it is my timing belt. Hopefully I'm back on the road today!

4th Apr 2009, 16:15

I have Mazda 2300B 1997. It has spark knock and I went to "scan" my truck, they told me low fuel pressure, it is the fuel pump, but I put in a few months ago a new pump. Does anybody know what else can go wrong. Please e-mail me cleannco@aol.com

8th May 2009, 12:06

My 1997 Mazda truck will sometimes lose the clutch. I will be setting at a red light, and when I let the clutch out, nothing happens. The truck acts like it's in neutral. Then all of a sudden the clutch will engage and jerk forward as if I popped the clutch.

15th Jul 2009, 08:36

I have a 95 B2300 that has a current drain issue when the truck is turned off. I have traced it to the no. 8 fuse in the box under the hood. It draws approx. 1.3A when off - I don't have the manual for it - does anyone know what circuit this is?

Thanks.

18th Jul 2009, 17:54

An update from my post two years ago: cooling system is repaired. Just cracked hoses and clogged radiator. I'm up to 213,700 miles and still rolling. Recently replaced the belts as well. The catalytic converter is wearing down and must be replaced soon. A guy at the shop told me to call him when I'm ready to sell it - another guy there was bragging that his Mazda B23 has 275,000 and is still rolling strong.

I didn't ask about his gas gauge or interior light, though.

25th Jul 2009, 00:39

1995 Mazda B2300. This is a great truck. I have had no serious problems with it. I have 144,000 miles on it. But then the other day my clutch started acting up. Ever since I got it back in 2000 the clutch has always been really easy to push to the floor. Never had any problems with the clutch. Then all of a sudden are heard like a dropping noise when I tried to shift into first gear. At first it would not go into first gear. Finally went in. Then after I stopped again, I could not shift at all when the truck was running. But when I shut the truck off I could shift through all the gears fine.

Had a mechanic look at it and it ran totally fine for him and shifted just fine. He said the clutch is a little worn and does not engage until the clutch is almost out.

Anyone have any ideas of what could be wrong? It is looking like a new clutch. Or could it be something simple like adding more fluid or air in the line?

Thanks.

17th Aug 2009, 16:59

Yeah, probably check the masters of the clutch, and I do own a 1997 B2300, and it always runs good. Some electronics problems of course, because this is a Ford (like gas gauge goes down and up for no reason at winter), clutch is still running good at 150,000 km. Had to change steering box cuz it was leaking, and bearings, but these are normal when you go in pits :P

I like it, the motor is indestructible! Rust will kill the pickup in some years, that b2300 has a way more to go! Good truck !

17th Aug 2009, 17:05

Oh and I forgot, if the service engine light opens, don't go repair it in a garage for 200 bucks like the other person said, just leave it, it is totally normal, it's a Ford truck you know, keep it as long as it is running!

20th Aug 2009, 16:33

"like gas gauge goes down and up for no reason at winter"

I kind of get a kick out of it when people state "... for no reason." They should say : "...for reasons I don't understand."

This is technical stuff and there are always reasons why things go or don't go. I once had a beetle and I thought I lost all my gas driving on the Autobahn. I went to a mechanic to look at it and there was no apparent reason for the gauge to drop. At some point I disconnected the electrical connector and put it back on. I never had problems with that gauge again. The reason for malfunction: corrosion increased the resistance which dropped the gauge's needle right in front of my eyes.