6th Oct 2009, 14:45

I had the dome light issue, took the dome light off, cleaned the contacts, replaced the fuse and put it back together. Have not had any issues with it again. Sounds like it is possibly connection issues since another poster stated something about spraying the door switch.

Engine is strong, though under powered (Toyota plays this game with many cars as well, govern them way back and they last forever). For my purposes though, it is exactly what I was looking for, reliable and economical.

12th Sep 2010, 16:04

I just brought a Mazda B2300 97 with 138,000 miles.

I had to replace all shocks and remove the alarm system, because it was draining my battery. So far I've had the car 2 months, and it has a lot of power. So far I'm happy with this truck.

22nd Dec 2010, 14:13

I have a 1997 B2300. The fuel gauge was acting up so I replaced the fuel pump. This is very easy to do.

Simply take the bed of the truck off by removing the 4 bolts, the 3 screws around the fuel inlet pipe, and a single pig tail wire connector at the back of the bed for the tail lights. Remove the fuel cap prior to lifting the bed off. "Push" the fuel filler pipe gently with your hand so that it goes out of its normal position. This will free the bed completely. Then, simply get a friend to move the bed back about 2 feet or lift it off completely. Place the fuel cap back on the fuel filler pipe to keep fumes from exploding. Fuel pump is staring you right in the face! So easy! From start to finish, it took me 2.5 hours to do this. No jack needed, no lift.

28th Jan 2011, 17:34

Does anybody know where I can get a new fuel/gas tank for a 1997 Mazda B2300? Can I use a Ford Ranger tank?

13th Mar 2011, 20:26

97 Mazda clutch.

You let off the clutch and it won't move, then all of a sudden it pops in and you go. LOL.

It's the slave cylinder inside the bell housing. Replace it and problem solved, I just did this myself.


20th Nov 2011, 22:25

I had a problem with the door ajar light staying on. Another fellow told me to spray a little WD40 in the door latch. It went out immediately, and I haven't had a problem with it since. I also did the same thing to my 2000 Ford Super Duty, and fixed it also. I think it is just a dry switch that needs some lube.

20th Jan 2012, 13:56

I have a 1995 Mazda B2300 that used to have a problem with the door ajar light and a "ding, ding, ding" problem, and the inside light would stay on.

What I did was got inside the driver's door by removing panel, etc. Removed 2 switches from door latch area and cleaned them real good. Wasn't that hard, and never again had the problem come back.

T.K Bemidji, MN.

12th Apr 2012, 18:58

The problem with your truck is the slave cylinder went out. I had the same problem.

9th Feb 2014, 09:03

Could be your slave cylinder; it is in the transmission. But if you go that far, you might as well change the clutch pressure plate also while you have it out.

9th Oct 2014, 20:07

My 97 Mazda is doing same thing. What did you do to fix it?

18th Mar 2015, 01:03

My 97 B 23 has 280 thousand and the door ajar light is the only problem.

3rd Mar 2017, 14:18

Thank you, the ding ding is gone but the light won't go off.

12th Sep 2017, 02:36

I have to agree with you. The Ford Lima engine is nothing but crap. I have 284,000 miles on my B2300. It continually overheats and burns valves. It has no HP either. In all of these miles it has burned up 4 heads and I am on number 5. I wished I had bought the 6 cylinder.

12th Sep 2017, 14:55

The 2.3 in my '96 Ranger was at 246,000 miles when I sold it, and the current owner is closing in on 300K miles, with no problems. Engines do not overheat for no reason. "It has no HP either." = hard driving and probably not paying attention to the engine temperature gauge.

26th Sep 2017, 19:17

I have a '97 B2300 pickup and bought it from a private seller about three months ago, with random problems here and there, but all have been fixed. Just this past week, I have had major problems shifting gears. The clutch will be all the way in, but I have to seriously yank or pull with both hands to move it into second or third. And moving it from neutral to 1st at a stop light is getting near to impossible. Any ideas about what it could be/how much it would cost to fix it?