Comments: 1-15, 16-30, 31-45, 46-60, 61-75, 76-90, 91-93
I own a 2001 Mazda Millenia and which I still have the factory rims on... The problem is... one of them is bent (thanks to the Bank of America parking lot) and I am having lots of trouble finding the replacements. If anyone has any available or know where I can get them at a reasonable price PLEASE call me ASAP. 845-346-1231 (my name is Melissa. Please leave a message if no one answers.)
I have a Milly 96 S. Everything was running fine until I took it to a garage that specializes in Japanese engines, etc. Got it back idling rough, almost like it would stall and the check engine light was blinking and the TCS light stayed on. Took it to dealer and was told the check engine light has to do with the vacuum hoses being replaced incorrectly. TCS has to do with transmission. Your thoughts?
I have an 01 type s. It has like 115K and I have been through all the hoops with warranty and such. replaced two cats, 4 coils, all plugs twice, and timing belt. Turns out there is a vacuum "t" below the intake plenum that is sensitive to heat and becomes very brittle. When it breaks, you will get misfires, rough running, fouled plugs=bad coils, etc... I was handy enough to remove the intake myself (saving $700) and replacing the "t" myself ($1.50). Check engine light went out for a while. Now I have an issue with moisture. Everytime it rains, the engine misses. Same thing with heavy condensation. Do not buy this car unless you are handy enough to do a great deal of work yourself or be prepared to spend a great deal of $$$ at dealerships. Most shops don't like to even toch the Miller-Cycle and will price you out to the dealership anyway.
Damn, I'm scared to keep this car, I've had this car for 3 years, now had 54k when I first got it, now it's going on 97k... the check engine light was blinking but we took it to some dude and all he did was clear it (still don't know the reason to that)... now the airbag light keeps blinking all the time.. and I get horrible gas mileage... are the problems just gonna get worse when I get past 100k?
I have a 2002 Mazda Millenia, that I have had nothing but problems with.
At 70,000 miles the transmission was replaced. It cost me 3600.00 at the dealership. Had to have it replaced 2 times.
At 72,000 miles the catalytic converter had to be changed.
It's had 3 O2 sensors, check engine light never goes off, no matter what I do. A lot of other things had to be replaced as well.
The tilt steering wheel quit working at 60,000 miles.
The gas door doesn't open with remote and hasn't since 50,000 miles when I bought it; already didn't work. Now I cranked it up one morning 5 weeks ago now, and it stalled, and it hasn't cranked since. We have done a tune up, distributor cap, crank shaft sensor, nothing will make it crank. Also changed starter, still won't crank.
Please if anyone can help, please email me at angeleyes642004@gmail.com. I'm about to lose my mind over this car.
I will never ever buy another Mazda. I wouldn't take a free one, way too expensive to maintain. The sad thing is I still make payments on it and can't even find out what is wrong with it. Thanks for any help that I can get. Please if you don't own one, don't ever buy one.
IF you bought this car, be afraid, be VERY AFRAID.
I bought this car in 06. Dec. Or was it 07 Dec?
Anyways, was good for 1 year.
Now at 68K miles. I figured I get a timing belt done. On the 2.3 Liter I found out in Calif, timing belt should be replaced at 105K, not 60. It says that in the manual. This is in August of 2008.
Cost 500 bucks. Timing belt = 80 bucks. Two additional belts replaced at the same time 45$ each. Total 500.
Week later Engine light comes on. @$#$# I might as well change the sparks plugs.
Cost = 300 dollars!!!
Engine light still on, so I check it and it's a cylinder 3 misfire. Replace ignition coil at 250 bucks.
Lets see.
500 + 300 + 250 = 1050 in 2 months. Piece of crap.
So now in November. Engine light on again. Geeeesus. What now? I don't know yet but I drop over a 1000 in less than 3 months. I don't mind spending money on repairs but #$# spread the repairs out a little.
Piece of crap. I owned a 89 626 too. Not much better.
Mazda might not be the best car to get.
Hi everyone.
I have been reading through your posts, and wished I had found this site before buying my 2000 Millenia S four years ago.
I have had the ignition coil replaced twice, the 02 sensors replaced, an $8.00 hose replaced that cost me $250.00 because of where it is located.
My check engine light has been on for years. When it first came on I had it diagnosed and the codes indicated that the 02 sensors needed to be replaced. Did that for about $400. To my horror a week later the engine light came back on. Take it back to the mechanic and now the code is indicating that the catalytic converter needs to be replaced at $2500. I still haven't gotten it replaced, but managed to get my car through inspection by resetting the computer and having it inspected before the light came back on. That trick isn't working anymore since the light comes on immediately now after resetting the computer.
Had work done on it this past weekend to have the starter replaced ($275, done by a friend), just to start driving home from picking it up and have the hold light start flashing. I asked my mechanic friend what that was about and was told it had to do with the transmission.
I am so through with this car, I don't know what to do, but I can't get rid of it because I'm still paying on it and it has over 191,000 miles. (I drive 500 miles per week to back & forth to work). Does anyone know what the problem is with the hold light and the approx. cost for repair? Please email me at niecec01@gmail.com.
I don't think my mechanic friend want to do any repairs on my car, other than minor ones because of the difficulty getting past the supercharger, and practically having to take everything apart to get to a minor problem.
Thanks for letting me vent!
I just bought my Mazda Millenia 2001 S 2.3 Miller cycle engine 89k in September. The car was running OK till I felt this rumbling vibration coming from the front of the car. I decided to take it to the dealership.
As soon as I pulled up, the service adviser told me it was an expensive car to repair. Well, that being said, the timing belt, new spark plugs, the axles and the inspection of the car cost me $3,500.00 and still they didn't figure out what the vibration was.
Then I brought it back, the mechanic said it might be the transmission since it's a known issue with this cars, but recommended not to change it yet.
The check engine light came up like two weeks ago; from what I´ve read on this website, the O2 sensors and the cats would be the most likely stuff to change.
I love the car and I´ve always wanted it, but I believe I am not going to keep it for too long. I still need a good mechanic to fix my rattling vibration from somewhere in my car, anybody email me to javinova@hotmail.com.
I own a 2002 Mazda Millenia but no the Miller version. Lately when I turn the key to start the car the dash lights come on but the car will not crank. I remove the key and reinsert once or more and seemingly at random it will finally crank and start. Anyone know what is going on? Is there a replaceable relay that is going out of what? So far it has started after one to five key removals/reinsertion, but of course I am nervous that one day it just will not start at all. To save precious time, if you have a solution please send it to dmcv2008@yahoo.com. Thanks.
I bought an '01 Millenia four years ago. It had 67K miles and the check engine light was on. Drove it a while until I had to go through emissions check for registration. Replaced all O2 sensors and both cat's. Light was out for about 500 miles then came back on.
Started noticing a vibration in the right front tire. Had to replace the CV half shaft. Engine light still on. Tuned it up myself (plugs, wires, cap, rotor, coil, etc) to the tune of $500 and the stupid light was still on.
Driving down the interstate one evening in Nov of 07 the car died. Timing belt was broken. Replaced to the tune of $1,000.
I took it to an oil-change shop and the idiot there put too much oil in it and blew out my valve cover seals. Then the car started idling rough and loping on the road. Took it to an OE dealership service department and the mechanic said it needed a tune up. After another $800 the light was out for 20,000 miles and then back on.
In November I took it to a different Mazda dealership service department and they said "needs a tuneup" since the oil had soaked the plug wires. After $1,800 for tune up, valve cover gasket replacement, timing belt replacement, serpentine belt, and battery cable replacement the check engine light is still on. Apparently, the front O2 sensors or the cat's or the rear O2 sensors are bad. O2 sensors are $200 OE, Cats are $800 OE so I'm driving it with the light on until I can get rid of it.
I like the car because my wife hates it and won't drive it. It looks like new on the inside and I know it will run 145 MPH on the interstate. But like so many of the other posts on this site, the maintenance on the vehicle just isn't worth the trouble of owning it. I think I'll buy a horse...
I drive a 1999 Mazda Millenia S. Currently the car has about 95,000 miles on it. I'm the second owner of the vehicle.
Just last summer the check engine light turned on. The codes indicated it was either an O2 sensor or a bad MAP sensor. As I was listening to the engine I kept hearing a rushing sound of air and realized that one of my vacuum lines had gone bad.
Apparently this particular vacuum line is the reason for the check engine light, because it has something to do with the fuel/air ratio mixture. Only problem is to replace this 3 inch piece of tubing, I have to take off the SC intake and throttle body, which means I also have to replace the throttle body gaskets.
Talked to a Mazda dealership and they said it's a common thing with all Millenia's and that while the tubing isn't hard to replace, the labor to do so is intensive. They quoted me around $500.00. They acted surprised because a lot of owners replace the sensors before finding out it's just a simple vacuum line.
Also had to replace the radiator for $300.00. At times I could also smell gas inside the car, which I later found out was a small 4 inch fuel line that started to leak at the metal crimps, also just under the SC intake tubing.
I assume this is all part of normal wear and tear and maintenance care. The only real problem I have with this car is that, unlike Honda or Toyota, nothing is easy to fix on this car. Everything is packed incredibly tight. Too tight!
I own a 1999 Mazda Millenia S. This car is horrible. I recommend that you never buy a Mazda.
The check engine light keeps coming on. I took it to a mechanic and he said I needed a new timing belt, a new turbo pulley and a new catalyst.
Loved it when I bought it a month ago... was a cherry. Hate it now, it's a lemon. Run away fast.
I own a 2001 Mazda Millenia P (not the supercharged). I have 143,000 miles and have had very little in the way of major repairs.
I change the oil every 3000 miles. I have small oil leaks from various gaskets, but recently I am having the violent vibration and shaking from the engine when my foot is on the gas above 60 mph. As soon as I take my foot off the gas the shaking stops. It sounds like a bunch of owners have had this issue. What is it?
Based upon the prior posts, I might be better off just getting rid of the car before I get into all those expensive repairs, but I do love this car.
Please send help email to fischsite@bellsouth.net
Bought my 2001 Millenia P (non-Miller) new in Aug 01 and have 95k miles. Got it for $20k plus sales tax as they were being discontinued. No major problems-
Hinged lid to storage on driver's door broke when the car was fairly new. Dealer replaced it under warranty. Now it's starting to come loose again.
O2 sensor replaced early under warranty. Check engine light came on again at 70k miles, and got that fixed (I think it was in the exhaust manifold) and got the 60k service package (timing belt and lots of other stuff) for $1,300. That included a hydraulic pulley for the timing belt ($250) and a waterpump.
Check engine light has just come on again, and the auto-tilt in the steering wheel just quit recently.
A couple of pieces of interior trim have come loose.
I noticed a CV boot was torn several thousand miles ago. I'll replace that myself eventually. I was looking for a repair manual online to do that when I came across this forum.
Love the car, it's still in great shape, but after reading this thread, I'm considering moving on.
Note to people who say their trunk release doesn't work - make sure the valet switch isn't activated in the glove box.