I have been reading through your posts, and wished I had found this site before buying my 2000 Millenia S four years ago.
I have had the ignition coil replaced twice, the 02 sensors replaced, an $8.00 hose replaced that cost me $250.00 because of where it is located.
My check engine light has been on for years. When it first came on I had it diagnosed and the codes indicated that the 02 sensors needed to be replaced. Did that for about $400. To my horror a week later the engine light came back on. Take it back to the mechanic and now the code is indicating that the catalytic converter needs to be replaced at $2500. I still haven't gotten it replaced, but managed to get my car through inspection by resetting the computer and having it inspected before the light came back on. That trick isn't working anymore since the light comes on immediately now after resetting the computer.
Had work done on it this past weekend to have the starter replaced ($275, done by a friend), just to start driving home from picking it up and have the hold light start flashing. I asked my mechanic friend what that was about and was told it had to do with the transmission.
I am so through with this car, I don't know what to do, but I can't get rid of it because I'm still paying on it and it has over 191,000 miles. (I drive 500 miles per week to back & forth to work). Does anyone know what the problem is with the hold light and the approx. cost for repair? Please email me at email@example.com.
I don't think my mechanic friend want to do any repairs on my car, other than minor ones because of the difficulty getting past the supercharger, and practically having to take everything apart to get to a minor problem.
Thanks for letting me vent!
I just bought my Mazda Millenia 2001 S 2.3 Miller cycle engine 89k in September. The car was running OK till I felt this rumbling vibration coming from the front of the car. I decided to take it to the dealership.
As soon as I pulled up, the service adviser told me it was an expensive car to repair. Well, that being said, the timing belt, new spark plugs, the axles and the inspection of the car cost me $3,500.00 and still they didn't figure out what the vibration was.
Then I brought it back, the mechanic said it might be the transmission since it's a known issue with this cars, but recommended not to change it yet.
The check engine light came up like two weeks ago; from what I´ve read on this website, the O2 sensors and the cats would be the most likely stuff to change.
I love the car and I´ve always wanted it, but I believe I am not going to keep it for too long. I still need a good mechanic to fix my rattling vibration from somewhere in my car, anybody email me to firstname.lastname@example.org.
I own a 2002 Mazda Millenia but no the Miller version. Lately when I turn the key to start the car the dash lights come on but the car will not crank. I remove the key and reinsert once or more and seemingly at random it will finally crank and start. Anyone know what is going on? Is there a replaceable relay that is going out of what? So far it has started after one to five key removals/reinsertion, but of course I am nervous that one day it just will not start at all. To save precious time, if you have a solution please send it to email@example.com. Thanks.
I bought an '01 Millenia four years ago. It had 67K miles and the check engine light was on. Drove it a while until I had to go through emissions check for registration. Replaced all O2 sensors and both cat's. Light was out for about 500 miles then came back on.
Started noticing a vibration in the right front tire. Had to replace the CV half shaft. Engine light still on. Tuned it up myself (plugs, wires, cap, rotor, coil, etc) to the tune of $500 and the stupid light was still on.
Driving down the interstate one evening in Nov of 07 the car died. Timing belt was broken. Replaced to the tune of $1,000.
I took it to an oil-change shop and the idiot there put too much oil in it and blew out my valve cover seals. Then the car started idling rough and loping on the road. Took it to an OE dealership service department and the mechanic said it needed a tune up. After another $800 the light was out for 20,000 miles and then back on.
In November I took it to a different Mazda dealership service department and they said "needs a tuneup" since the oil had soaked the plug wires. After $1,800 for tune up, valve cover gasket replacement, timing belt replacement, serpentine belt, and battery cable replacement the check engine light is still on. Apparently, the front O2 sensors or the cat's or the rear O2 sensors are bad. O2 sensors are $200 OE, Cats are $800 OE so I'm driving it with the light on until I can get rid of it.
I like the car because my wife hates it and won't drive it. It looks like new on the inside and I know it will run 145 MPH on the interstate. But like so many of the other posts on this site, the maintenance on the vehicle just isn't worth the trouble of owning it. I think I'll buy a horse...
I drive a 1999 Mazda Millenia S. Currently the car has about 95,000 miles on it. I'm the second owner of the vehicle.
Just last summer the check engine light turned on. The codes indicated it was either an O2 sensor or a bad MAP sensor. As I was listening to the engine I kept hearing a rushing sound of air and realized that one of my vacuum lines had gone bad.
Apparently this particular vacuum line is the reason for the check engine light, because it has something to do with the fuel/air ratio mixture. Only problem is to replace this 3 inch piece of tubing, I have to take off the SC intake and throttle body, which means I also have to replace the throttle body gaskets.
Talked to a Mazda dealership and they said it's a common thing with all Millenia's and that while the tubing isn't hard to replace, the labor to do so is intensive. They quoted me around $500.00. They acted surprised because a lot of owners replace the sensors before finding out it's just a simple vacuum line.
Also had to replace the radiator for $300.00. At times I could also smell gas inside the car, which I later found out was a small 4 inch fuel line that started to leak at the metal crimps, also just under the SC intake tubing.
I assume this is all part of normal wear and tear and maintenance care. The only real problem I have with this car is that, unlike Honda or Toyota, nothing is easy to fix on this car. Everything is packed incredibly tight. Too tight!
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