1999 Mazda Protege DX from North America - Comments

Wow, so I feel (kind of) better about my car now. I have a 99 Mazda Protege automatic transmission with about 145,000 miles on it. The check engine light's been on since I bought it a year ago, and after I was told that it wasn't a big deal I've been driving with it on without any problems. In the past two weeks however, my alternator belt broke off, my car started overheating and the "OD off" light has been blinking. I fixed the belt and overheating, but I don't know what to do about the blinking "OD off" light. It goes away if I just keep driving my car for awhile, but I doubt the problems fixed. If anyone has any idea whats going on (since a blinking "OD off" light isn't even mentioned in my owner's manual) and how to fix it I would love to know. Thanks a lot!

I own a 1999 Mazda Protege LX and it has about 160,000 miles on it. The only problem that I have had with it is that the check engine light has been on in it for some time now. There isn't anything wrong with it, it runs great! However in Texas in order to pass inspection the check engine light cannot be on. My dad says that it is just a bad sensor and it needs to be replaced. The cost at the dealer is $400. Does anyone know where I can find this part for a reasonable price?

I just bought a 1999 Protege LX 5-speed with 85,600 miles. When I did my checks under the hood, all of the sensors looked like they were recently replaced. Nothing leaks and all fluid levels were perfect! Car runs and looks great and gets excellent mileage! Only thing wrong with it is the cigarette lighter doesn't work. Not that I smoke but I can't charge my cell phone... Hoping the engine light doesn't come on but if it does, hope it is something I can handle.

I solved the blinking OD light by adding some kind of auto transmission renew stuff. I can't remember the name but it hasn't come back on in six months. My question is with anyone who has replaced the catalytic converter. Did it work?

Hello there!

I just received a 1999 LS and it has the following problem:

When you first start it up in the morning, the engine will rev from 0 - 2000 RPM and then start to stagger. The Check Engine Light will be on.

As it warms up, you can get it up to 3000 RPM then eventually 3500. After 3500 RPM it feels like it is running out of gas.

Once the engine is nice and hot, and at normal highway speed, getting to the top of the RPM range in 3rd gear causes the Check Engine Light to flash. Shifting to 4th makes it stop flashing.

NOTE: If car is parked nose down or nose up at say a 15 degree angle overnight, the Check Engine Light will be off, and will stay off unless you rev it up to where it starts to falter... then the light will come on.

HMMM?

1999 Protege LX Auto - 1.8 (some, not many LX's had 1.8's). Now 205 000 km. Been relatively good. Some lessons I learned:

- used Synthetic since 77 000... and now the seals are starting to leak (replaced the cam seals and front crank seal... rear is going to be a pain), next I will use high mileage oil

- CEL light has gone off a few times with different codes:

- O2 sensor (I seem to blow the heaters in them until I started using Bosch)

- intake manifold leak between 2 and 3 cylinders (caused all sorts of codes)

- I clean the Mass Airflow Sensor regularly (contact cleaner - cheaper than a new one!, if not I get a CEL)

- Once I hit 7000 rpm in first - and then started happening regularly then cold, until the TPS was replaced

- occasionally have had the sudden jerk/bump while driving along. Still no fix, doesn't seem to happen right after ECU resets though. Seems more often with temp changes (fall/spring)

- trans kickdown is sometimes slow... but doesn't appear to be having the fatal issues described here or on numerous other sites (use Synthetic ATF, and completely replace every 30-40k)

- replaced timing belt at 100km, and in each case, belt looked OK (at 200k, the tensioner spring was out of spec, idler and tensioner needed to be replaced too)

- Original exhaust, except for the 1 ft long pipe between the cat and the exhaust pipe (flange rusted).

- had constant brake vibration issues until I put OEM rotors and drums in - then all vibrations were gone (so much for the different brands of aftermarkets I tried).

- signs of rust perforation on the drivers side - bottom of drivers door and rear wheel well & gas tank shield.

- CD/radio started going crazy (changing stations on its own), took apart, cleaned with contact cleaner, now fine

- great in the winter with ice radials, amazing in the summer with UHP tires.

But... still happy, and parts reasonably priced if you go to the dealer (strangely enough, for stuff like spark plugs, belts, etc)

I've had my 99 Protege since purchased new. Overall a good car, with about 180k miles so far. Have had many of the same problems as other posters. Door lock issues, PO171 (fixed with new intake manifold gasket), broken electric window rails, other "engine light" issues. Current problems include PO401 and automatic transmission slipping going into drive while cold. This is my fourth Mazda, but have really notice a decrease in quality with this car and will probably move on to Honda or some other manufacture without any U.S. manufacturer influence.

I'm also having trouble shifting from park into drive. It started with just a 1/2 to 1 second wait for it to shift, now it can take 2 or 3 sec. and the OD light goes off/on a few times. Anyone know what's up?

Thanks.

Brian.

Had the delayed forward movement when cold - seemed to go away after replacing the trans. fluid, and hasn't come back in more than 100 000km's (but I didn't have the O/D light - at the time did a trans flush, and I continue to do them regularly - but wouldn't do a flush on a trans with lots of miles if it didn't have them before- that is supposed to cause issues).

One thing I did for the random sudden bump/jerk at cruising speed - as noted way earlier on this website replaced the "Pulse Generator"/ transmission turbine speed sensor (right on the top of the trans, about 10 minutes to replace, part was $47 from mazda, but it is tough not to get dirt dropping into the trans when you pull out the old one - used a vacuum cleaner with a straw on the end to pull out the dirt I dropped), and at least for me, it shifts much better now - and jerk seems to be gone (hasn't come back yet in a month - I was getting this issue about 2 times a month). Also that fixed the kickdown delay issue at 40km/h (used to shift from 3 to 2 very slowly, and then from 2 back to 3 slowly - with the car jerking with each shift) - shifting seems much more precise/quicker now. Now if I only had the time to attack the rust spots that are attacking the underneath of the car, and some spots on the paint...

We drove our '98 Mazda Protege LX off the lot with 15 miles on it, and have had extremely good luck with it. It was originally my wife's car, but when the kids came and the gas prices went up, we got a larger vehicle for her, and I gave up my truck and used the Protege to commute to work.

Just turned 200K miles today!

The CEL has been on due to the O2 sensor for over a year, but the car still runs great and I still average more than 31 MPG all highway. I'll replace the O2 sensor so the code clears, and it will pass inspection, but from past experience I know the CEL will be back by the end of the month.

Oh well, I can live with it for another year... hopefully!

I have a 99 LX Protege. It failed emission because the check engine light was one. I had the manifold gasket replaced and the light continued to stay on. The Oxygen Sensor was replaced and the light came on again. The emissions place rechecked it and the engine was still too lean. They told me it was the Mass Air Flow Sensor. They gave me paperwork about an extended warranty.

I called the dealer and they told me they would fix it free of charge as I was never notified. Well, the dealership changed their tune when they got my car and told me to call corporate Mazda where I was met with a rude gentleman over the phone. He was very unsympathetic and blamed me for not letting Mazda know that I moved-they supposed could not get the information to me. They refused to replace the part.

The oxygen sensor cost me $300.00 with labor; the dealership want $800 to fix the MAS and the manifold gasket cost me around $700.00. My car is not even worth what I have or need to put into it.

Unfortunately, those of us with 99 Mazda Protege cars are experiencing the problems and Mazda is not standing behind their product to rectify the problem and the personnel at corporate need customer service training. I guess I won't have to think too hard about deciding NOT to buy another Mazda in the future.

I own a 99 Protege with 100K miles. The car works well and I have been driving it with the check engine light on for a couple years now. The real problem came around 80K, I had to replace the cat converter after the car was struggling to accelerate between 3-4 RPMs. also changed a belt that broke. The light then remained on from then on.

Now, this might sound crazy but my mechanic does it and it works for me.. I live in NY and its the same you can't pass inspection if the light is on.. my mechanic resets the light, (ask your mechanic?) and it stays off for about 150 miles, but before you take it for inspection you must drive the car at least 41 miles., The light does come back on eventually but this has been my method for the last 2 years!

One time I only drove it 39 miles thinking it was no big deal and I failed inspection! I drove it around the block a few times and went back and it passed.. the dudes inspecting were laughing and only made me pay $12 bucks for the 2nd time instead of paying another $37.. weird but this works!

I have a 2000 Protege with about 101,000 miles on it, and the only problem with it is that it either struggles to shift into 3rd and 4th gear, or it will just stay in 2nd, and I don't know what it is... can someone help me with this?

I just bought a Mazda Protege year 99... everything is great but my radio does not seem to work... my uncle suggested that it needs a code to work? Do any of ya know this code?

I have had a 2000 Mazda Protege DX 5 speed since it was brand new. During my drive off the lot at mile number 2 on the car, the check engine light came on and has been on ever since. I had it checked and they said it was a mass air flow sensor, but the real problem wasn't the MAP sensor, it was a pin hole in the exhaust.

I have 156,000 miles on the car now, and have only had to replace the alternator belt and the radio since it was new. I hope the check engine light doesn't ever need to warn me of something important, because it doesn't ever go off.

But now I am having issues with an oil leak. I had the car in to a shop and they told me it was leaking from the seals, and they would have to replace the timing belt and seals in order to fix the leak. Total estimated cost is $1200 far more than the car is valued at. I had it checked at about a 130k and I have been putting 2 quarts of oil in every 500-800 miles since. The rear end of the car is covered in oil and is sure to ruin anyones clothes that gets within feet or the car. I'm curious what will happen if I just keep pumping oil in to it every time the oil light comes on. Surely at some point all that oil pouring out of the timing belt cover is going to cause timing belt issues. I am aware that I should have replaced the timing belt by now already, but at this point I am having trouble justifying spending the $1200 to fix a car worth no more than a $1k. Does this seem like a reasonable amount of money to replace the seals and timing belt on this car?

I would sure love to take this car past 250k miles but I am afraid its days are numbered if I don't fix the leak and replace the belt. Also, is this an interference engine? Will I bend the valves if I run it till the belt breaks? If anyone has any suggestions my email is justin.palesotti@clubmarketing.com