20th Mar 2008, 06:48
I just purchased a 95' Protege and changed the rear drum brakes and wheel cylinders. I have bled the brake lines and I have pedal pressure when the car is turned off. When I start the car the pedal goes to the floor. I have checked the booster vac line and I have good vac pressure. How do I adjust the brakes?
22nd Mar 2008, 20:52
Wow, so I feel (kind of) better about my car now. I have a 99 Mazda Protege automatic transmission with about 145,000 miles on it. The check engine light's been on since I bought it a year ago, and after I was told that it wasn't a big deal I've been driving with it on without any problems. In the past two weeks however, my alternator belt broke off, my car started overheating and the "OD off" light has been blinking. I fixed the belt and overheating, but I don't know what to do about the blinking "OD off" light. It goes away if I just keep driving my car for awhile, but I doubt the problems fixed. If anyone has any idea whats going on (since a blinking "OD off" light isn't even mentioned in my owner's manual) and how to fix it I would love to know. Thanks a lot!
27th Mar 2008, 09:51
I own a 1999 Mazda Protege LX and it has about 160,000 miles on it. The only problem that I have had with it is that the check engine light has been on in it for some time now. There isn't anything wrong with it, it runs great! However in Texas in order to pass inspection the check engine light cannot be on. My dad says that it is just a bad sensor and it needs to be replaced. The cost at the dealer is $400. Does anyone know where I can find this part for a reasonable price?
2nd Apr 2008, 21:33
I just bought a 1999 Protege LX 5-speed with 85,600 miles. When I did my checks under the hood, all of the sensors looked like they were recently replaced. Nothing leaks and all fluid levels were perfect! Car runs and looks great and gets excellent mileage! Only thing wrong with it is the cigarette lighter doesn't work. Not that I smoke but I can't charge my cell phone... Hoping the engine light doesn't come on but if it does, hope it is something I can handle.
17th Apr 2008, 16:25
I solved the blinking OD light by adding some kind of auto transmission renew stuff. I can't remember the name but it hasn't come back on in six months. My question is with anyone who has replaced the catalytic converter. Did it work?
13th May 2008, 04:04
I just received a 1999 LS and it has the following problem:
When you first start it up in the morning, the engine will rev from 0 - 2000 RPM and then start to stagger. The Check Engine Light will be on.
As it warms up, you can get it up to 3000 RPM then eventually 3500. After 3500 RPM it feels like it is running out of gas.
Once the engine is nice and hot, and at normal highway speed, getting to the top of the RPM range in 3rd gear causes the Check Engine Light to flash. Shifting to 4th makes it stop flashing.
NOTE: If car is parked nose down or nose up at say a 15 degree angle overnight, the Check Engine Light will be off, and will stay off unless you rev it up to where it starts to falter... then the light will come on.
5th Jun 2008, 20:30
1999 Protege LX Auto - 1.8 (some, not many LX's had 1.8's). Now 205 000 km. Been relatively good. Some lessons I learned:
- used Synthetic since 77 000... and now the seals are starting to leak (replaced the cam seals and front crank seal... rear is going to be a pain), next I will use high mileage oil
- CEL light has gone off a few times with different codes:
- O2 sensor (I seem to blow the heaters in them until I started using Bosch)
- intake manifold leak between 2 and 3 cylinders (caused all sorts of codes)
- I clean the Mass Airflow Sensor regularly (contact cleaner - cheaper than a new one!, if not I get a CEL)
- Once I hit 7000 rpm in first - and then started happening regularly then cold, until the TPS was replaced
- occasionally have had the sudden jerk/bump while driving along. Still no fix, doesn't seem to happen right after ECU resets though. Seems more often with temp changes (fall/spring)
- trans kickdown is sometimes slow... but doesn't appear to be having the fatal issues described here or on numerous other sites (use Synthetic ATF, and completely replace every 30-40k)
- replaced timing belt at 100km, and in each case, belt looked OK (at 200k, the tensioner spring was out of spec, idler and tensioner needed to be replaced too)
- Original exhaust, except for the 1 ft long pipe between the cat and the exhaust pipe (flange rusted).
- had constant brake vibration issues until I put OEM rotors and drums in - then all vibrations were gone (so much for the different brands of aftermarkets I tried).
- signs of rust perforation on the drivers side - bottom of drivers door and rear wheel well & gas tank shield.
- CD/radio started going crazy (changing stations on its own), took apart, cleaned with contact cleaner, now fine
- great in the winter with ice radials, amazing in the summer with UHP tires.
But... still happy, and parts reasonably priced if you go to the dealer (strangely enough, for stuff like spark plugs, belts, etc)
6th Jun 2008, 17:31
I've had my 99 Protege since purchased new. Overall a good car, with about 180k miles so far. Have had many of the same problems as other posters. Door lock issues, PO171 (fixed with new intake manifold gasket), broken electric window rails, other "engine light" issues. Current problems include PO401 and automatic transmission slipping going into drive while cold. This is my fourth Mazda, but have really notice a decrease in quality with this car and will probably move on to Honda or some other manufacture without any U.S. manufacturer influence.
27th Jun 2008, 08:08
I'm also having trouble shifting from park into drive. It started with just a 1/2 to 1 second wait for it to shift, now it can take 2 or 3 sec. and the OD light goes off/on a few times. Anyone know what's up?
3rd Jul 2008, 12:00
Had the delayed forward movement when cold - seemed to go away after replacing the trans. fluid, and hasn't come back in more than 100 000km's (but I didn't have the O/D light - at the time did a trans flush, and I continue to do them regularly - but wouldn't do a flush on a trans with lots of miles if it didn't have them before- that is supposed to cause issues).
One thing I did for the random sudden bump/jerk at cruising speed - as noted way earlier on this website replaced the "Pulse Generator"/ transmission turbine speed sensor (right on the top of the trans, about 10 minutes to replace, part was $47 from mazda, but it is tough not to get dirt dropping into the trans when you pull out the old one - used a vacuum cleaner with a straw on the end to pull out the dirt I dropped), and at least for me, it shifts much better now - and jerk seems to be gone (hasn't come back yet in a month - I was getting this issue about 2 times a month). Also that fixed the kickdown delay issue at 40km/h (used to shift from 3 to 2 very slowly, and then from 2 back to 3 slowly - with the car jerking with each shift) - shifting seems much more precise/quicker now. Now if I only had the time to attack the rust spots that are attacking the underneath of the car, and some spots on the paint...