25th May 2004, 15:25
I am responding to last comment. The RX-7 's fuel system is sealed tightly and if you do not let it run for awhile it floods. As with my 1988 RX-7 once you start it plan to give it a little drive or it won't start for you immediately after. Especially when you are storing it for awhile take it for a good drive. The car definitely responds better when it is used more. Hope that helps. DDT.
23rd Jul 2004, 13:07
I have a question, I have just recently bought a 1988 Rx-7 GXL, and I'm interested in knowing what would be the best looking body kit for that model?
24th Jul 2004, 13:01
Well I have a 1988 GXL too and I've been looking at some body kits, but its outrageously high prices. I haven't really seen many types of kits too. Theres one on ebay for like 600 or so... looks good, but a little too much for me. But you can check that out of you want.
12th May 2005, 16:56
If you just bought the car you more than likely have a stock or near stock engine. Why waste your money on a body kit when your car isn't anywhere near a chance of properly using it? Make your car fast, don't just make it look fast.
15th Apr 2006, 00:15
I just bought a rx-7 tonight, with a rebuilt engine and pretty much new everything. Immaculate condition. It has been ported, has a new intake, upgraded suspension, high performance street tires, etc. And I would never put a body kit on it, unless I could run an analysis that showed that it would be signifigantly more aerodynamic.
Why are people so anxious to ruin the look of a beautiful car so that it will look faster?
25th Aug 2006, 21:59
I have an 88 same problem with it not starting pull the EGI fuse, crank it over a few times and return the fuse it will clear the fuel by doing this. I have found true root cause yet for this I'd love to know. It's fuel injected do not pump the pedal. If you pump the pedal and it starts you have a leaking injector, weak fuel pump and or leaking fuel lines. Buy a repair manual for gosh sakes. This car is easy to work on. All the electrical problem are do to rust or dirt build up and loss of ground contact. I fixed a problem with the interior lights and security light NF by removing the door switch and cleaning the rust off. Unplug and replug connectors to electrical units sometime corrosion builds up and you loose ground. RX7's are fun, but remember they are a cheap sports car. You get what you paid for.
4th Sep 2006, 13:59
I'm going to get an '88 Rx-7, and I need to know, if any of you could help me, what a good replacement engine would be for the stock 13B. I've been looking at a 20B, but I'm not sure how that would hold up.
Also, it needs a new radiator. Can anyone point me in the right direction? Thanks much.
If needed, you can e-mail me at firstname.lastname@example.org
2nd Oct 2006, 10:56
I have a 88' RX 7 Convertable... all original, except for a K&N Intake, the stock CD/Tape deck even plays burnt cd's. My only problem is that when I accelerate its fine up until 3.5 RPM - 4RPM its loses power then kicks back in... any ideas would be very helpful, it's really annoying. Thanks
3rd Mar 2007, 20:51
I have a 1988 RX-7 non-turbo that hasn't run in 8 years. Does anyone know where I can get an engine or know a good engine rebuilder in Southern California?
12th Feb 2008, 00:12
The 3800 hesitation can be caused by either bad grounds at the engine bay, and more important the ECU ground. The flooding issues typically happen to rotary engines with low compression. My engine has 20,000 miles and never floods, even if I start it, cut it off, and start it again. My compression is 125 psi on both rotors. A standard NA 13b can however become quite fast if you do a few things such as (from the engine back) Porting, street port, bridge port, etc. Carbs can create more power when combined with a air intake and header/ cat back.(although I would recommend keeping the fuel injection. Considering we all have GXL's here we all have the LSD, and 4 Piston front calipers. Also, with the cars being 20 years old its important to ensure the actuators that open the 5th and 6th ports are functional. BTW their function is to increase low end power while closed, and give you a 25 hp gain while open above 4000 or so. The S5 models 89-91 have an intake also equipped with VDI which is also an advantage over the S4's. (86-88)
9th Mar 2008, 16:23
I introduce myself.
I'm from Belgium, Europe (you know us from the Belgium waffles, Brussel sprouts and pralines :-) ), And I bought last year an import RX-7 from Rhode Island.
A great car, GLX, red interior, NA of '86 with 156000 miles!!! and original motor. Perfect condition and a compression over the 7.
In Europe there's a similar RX-7, but without the 6-Th port.
Can somebody help me with following problem. How does it work, and how can I let it work again? Both are stuck and not working. Is there an electronic system active also?
Do you have an original manual that I can consult? It's not available, here in Belgium.
6th May 2012, 16:53
The actuators are vacuum operated, and usually the front sticks (not sure why). What I did was apply a bit of high temperature grease on the actuator shaft, and work it till it frees up. Sometimes the inner valve seizes, so what I did was remove the actuator; behind the actuator, there are 2 Philips screws. Remove those and the bracket, be sure not to lose the washer and horseshoe washer. Carefully remove the lever assembly, twisting back and forth as you remove it (remember the position). Once out, spray WD40 into the hole and reinstall the flexshaft/lever assembly. Work the inner valve back and forth until loose. Reassemble, noting the position of inner valve and lever prior to removal (take a photo). Worked for me...