Comments: 1-15, 16
This car has had minor problems such as the back wiper not working unless it feels like it. The clutch and engine are original and still strong. Very quick and sporty, I have fun going around winding roads at 50 or 60. I have to pump the gas pedal to get it to start, which I've heard is a common problem with RX-7's. The suspension is weak, but just needs new rear struts, no big deal. It only gets 17/24 mpg on gas, which isn't great for its size, but isn't a big downfall.
This is a great little car! It is fast, not as fast as my Eclipse was, but pretty good for a 1.3 liter engine. I enjoy the overall performance of this car and I love the way it accelerates. I recommend you buy an RX-7 of any year or model.
I agree with you 100 percent. They aren't the fastest car, actually really not that fast at all, but when you accelerate and the engine makes a "whining" noise, and people look at me and think that I have put something into the car, like a turbo. But my car is actually in very good condition, and it is the GXL model, leather seats, sunroof, all that good stuff. But this year car has a lot of problems, like I have to pull out a fuse to my car and then try to start it and then put it back in and turn the key and it will start, imagine how embarassing when people see you doing this. Hope you enjoy your car.
What fuse do you pull? my car starts once usually in the morning, then if you shut it off right away, it won't start again for about an hour. It's an 1988 rx7. If anyone has any idea what could be gong on please let me know. PLEASE.. eyoung15@adelphia.net.
I am responding to last comment. The RX-7 's fuel system is sealed tightly and if you do not let it run for awhile it floods. As with my 1988 RX-7 once you start it plan to give it a little drive or it won't start for you immediately after. Especially when you are storing it for awhile take it for a good drive. The car definitely responds better when it is used more. Hope that helps. DDT.
I have a question, I have just recently bought a 1988 Rx-7 GXL, and I'm interested in knowing what would be the best looking body kit for that model?
Well I have a 1988 GXL too and I've been looking at some body kits, but its outrageously high prices. I haven't really seen many types of kits too. Theres one on ebay for like 600 or so... looks good, but a little too much for me. But you can check that out of you want.
Hey I just bought a 1988 rx7 and I need to restore some of it so can you guys give me some numbers to call for the car parts.
If you just bought the car you more than likely have a stock or near stock engine. Why waste your money on a body kit when your car isn't anywhere near a chance of properly using it? Make your car fast, don't just make it look fast.
I just bought a rx-7 tonight, with a rebuilt engine and pretty much new everything. Immaculate condition. It has been ported, has a new intake, upgraded suspension, high performance street tires, etc. And I would never put a body kit on it, unless I could run an analysis that showed that it would be signifigantly more aerodynamic.
Why are people so anxious to ruin the look of a beautiful car so that it will look faster?
I partly agree with the body kit comments, but then I have to disagree as well. I put a lot into my motor and engine bay from Racing beats New true dual exhaust, mild port on a New engine, fc jacobs ignition, cold air intake, upgraded secondaries, to an aluminum radiator. I have a lot under the hood probly to much to mention and a lot like the fc ignition was not getting cooled. I purchased the Erebuni shogun body kit about 4 or 5 years ago before people went crazy with them. This kit was new and no one in the states had it. I bought it because of the cooling and it lightened my car. I believe the kit not only made it so I could upgrade more, but also made my car more reliable (cooling wise). If you are not putting the money into making your ride faster please rethink the body kit and if felt the need to then buy the bumpers from a s5 for your s4 maybe some round tails and a gtu rear wing. Reminder to anyone buying a body kit a t11 swap runs you around 2800 and will make your ride faster and will go even faster with turbo, intercooler, and exhaust mods. A body kit, makes your car look fast, and unique from the rest, and offers better air flow, but a body kit is only a body kit without atleast some kind of wheels to back it up. Erebuni shogun body kit at the time ran me 1350 shipped from japan, Wheel package was around the same price. I have the know how to install the body kit do you? If not that kit will need to be dry fitted, reshaped, then painted, and finally put on your car running your check book to the ground. If this still does not convince people to have a need more than a want for a body kit then if you have no upgrades and little money go buy one, but do not choose high end companies goto ebay and buy one. I am not saying this because I don't think you are worthy of a erebuni or such body kits and by no means am I trying to be a d##k I say this because makers like erebuni do not fit there kits and they are fiberglass they are a pain to do to where ebay offers kits on there that are flexable and already fitted so its easier to bolt on and spray with some paint. If I were to buy a bodykit off ebay it would be DI Defender Drift Body Kit its supposed to be a good fit or anything urethane. I am all for anyone doing anything to there cars no matter what I just said or how I come across. I just want people to think about the work involved that's all. With all that said hopefully you make the choice that best fits you and not what other people tell you or want your ride to look. What do you want to do?
What would make you most like riding in your car? Thats all and is all just one persons opinion this was not written to critisize or run down anyone. In fact if anyone needs help or has questions or comments on what they are thinking feel free to email me at joshz@satx.rr.com
I have an 88 same problem with it not starting pull the EGI fuse, crank it over a few times and return the fuse it will clear the fuel by doing this. I have found true root cause yet for this I'd love to know. It's fuel injected do not pump the pedal. If you pump the pedal and it starts you have a leaking injector, weak fuel pump and or leaking fuel lines. Buy a repair manual for gosh sakes. This car is easy to work on. All the electrical problem are do to rust or dirt build up and loss of ground contact. I fixed a problem with the interior lights and security light NF by removing the door switch and cleaning the rust off. Unplug and replug connectors to electrical units sometime corrosion builds up and you loose ground. RX7's are fun, but remember they are a cheap sports car. You get what you paid for.
I'm going to get an '88 Rx-7, and I need to know, if any of you could help me, what a good replacement engine would be for the stock 13B. I've been looking at a 20B, but I'm not sure how that would hold up.
Also, it needs a new radiator. Can anyone point me in the right direction? Thanks much.
If needed, you can e-mail me at captainlasko@gmail.com
Thanks guys.
I have a 88' RX 7 Convertable... all original, except for a K&N Intake, the stock CD/Tape deck even plays burnt cd's. My only problem is that when I accelerate its fine up until 3.5 RPM - 4RPM its loses power then kicks back in... any ideas would be very helpful, it's really annoying. Thanks
I have a 1988 RX-7 non-turbo that hasn't run in 8 years. Does anyone know where I can get an engine or know a good engine rebuilder in Southern California?
I agree.
The 3800 hesitation can be caused by either bad grounds at the engine bay, and more important the ECU ground. The flooding issues typically happen to rotary engines with low compression. My engine has 20,000 miles and never floods, even if I start it, cut it off, and start it again. My compression is 125 psi on both rotors. A standard NA 13b can however become quite fast if you do a few things such as (from the engine back) Porting, street port, bridge port, etc. Carbs can create more power when combined with a air intake and header/ cat back.(although I would recommend keeping the fuel injection. Considering we all have GXL's here we all have the LSD, and 4 Piston front calipers. Also, with the cars being 20 years old its important to ensure the actuators that open the 5th and 6th ports are functional. BTW their function is to increase low end power while closed, and give you a 25 hp gain while open above 4000 or so. The S5 models 89-91 have an intake also equipped with VDI which is also an advantage over the S4's. (86-88)