1999 Mercury Cougar from North America - Comments

I myself have a '99 Cougar and although I haven't had near the problems some of you have had I still think it's a piece of junk. If anyone has a code reading that they engine is running lean or something to that effect, try dropping some gas line antifreeze into your fuel tank. It's done the trick for me on 2 occasions where the check engine light has come on. I'm not sure why, but my car seems pretty picky on the gas it gets and I have often even thrown in the highest grade gasoline. I'm hoping to have this car paid off in a year and then buy myself something much better!!!

Mine is a 2000 Cougar and bought it used 1 year ago with 84,400 miles on it

I have had a couple of problems with it, but they have been solved except 1 with a little digging!

The main issue was all lights were flickering while driving and dimming with the use of the brake lights!

Took it back to the dealer and the Mechanic found that both Wiring Harnesses to the Alternator were corroded inside the looms. They replaced one loom (Stator) and had to skin back the other one (Alternator) and cut out the bad wires and splice in some new ones, Problem has been solved.

Apparently, this has been an on going thing and will cause the burning out of the Alternator if not repaired!!

There is one other thing with the Electrical system and that is the routing of the Positive cable from the battery, and if not rerouted it will wear off the insulation and short out the battery or the Alternator, or worse still cause a fire!!,there is a service bulletin on this at any Ford or Mercury Dealer.

Also Regarding the rough idling, stalling, no getup and go, etc.there was a Recall (try this Number 04N02) on that one, which involved replacing...

1..Fuel Pump Delivery Module

2..Fuel sender and Pump Assembly

3..Fuel Filter

All done with no charge!!

Have not had the Engine Warning light thing yet, but it is most likely the Gas Cap, common thing with the Taurus also up to Model Year 2003..

My Sunroof is Toast now also, (Broken Rail) Right side, I found a service bulletin (TSP 99-19-3 Sept 99) on that also Which says If Sunroof makes squeaks Sqawck's and grinding noises when opening or closing it needs the "Slider Boots" replaced!! or it will cause a Failure!!

I hope this will help out someone with their problems.

"I myself have a '99 Cougar and although I haven't had near the problems some of you have had I still think it's a piece of junk. If anyone has a code reading that they engine is running lean or something to that effect, try dropping some gas line antifreeze into your fuel tank. It's done the trick for me on 2 occasions where the check engine light has come on. I'm not sure why, but my car seems pretty picky on the gas it gets and I have often even thrown in the highest grade gasoline. I'm hoping to have this car paid off in a year and then buy myself something much better!!!"

I don't understand. If this is the only problem you've had, it sounds like a pretty good car. Have you read the owner's manual? The highest grade isn't always best for a car. Most cars are designed to run on 87, and they don't want you putting 93 in. Seems like you may be blaming the car unfairly for something that is operator error (i.e. your fault).

You're correct regarding the octane of gasoline. A quick lesson in gasoline, higher octane SLOWS the burning process of gasoline, and is used in higher compression engines to eliminate pinging. As the gas / air mixture is compressed in the engine, if the octane is too low, the heat caused by the pressure in the cylinder will cause the gas / air mixture to pre-ignite. As the piston gets near "top dead center", that's when the engine sparks the spark plug and now you have 2 explosion fronts inside the cylinder going towards each other. When they meet, you get a knock. Using a higher octane fuel will stop the pressure ignition of the fuel in this higher compression engine. Some people see the Corvette using premium (93 octane) and think if they put that in their engine that requires regular (87 octane) that their car will go faster!

If you use high octane fuel in an engine that requires 87 octane, the burn is still slowed to the point that some unburned fuel goes out your exhaust, and lowering your power, mileage, and leaving deposits in your cylinders. After many years of using too high an octane, these deposits actually take up enough space in your cylinders that you now NEED premium fuel to stop the knock.

A good example of an engine that has "pressure / heat" ignited fuel is the diesel engine, which uses 40 octane fuel and doesn't need spark plugs to ignite the fuel mixture. It's the heat caused by the pressure of compression in the cylinder.

Basically, it's best to use whatever octane the manufacturer recommends.

I have a 99 Cougar and its crap I have had a ton of front end problems I keep going through bearings, I have replaced an axle, brake rotors just a couple months ago, and guess what I have to change them again. I am told there is nothing wrong with the calipers, but like everyone else my check engine light has been on for over a year, I have replaced both oxygen sensors, now when I start it it revs very low and starts to act like it is going to die, but keeps running. While driving it runs fine. Also my drivers side window won't go down. When I took it to Auto Zone they can't even get the codes to come up at all. So my next guess is the egr, but who really knows I hate this car.

I have a 99 cougar, check engine light has been on for the past four years, sunroof does not open all the way, had alternator replaced four times, turn signals don't work the mercury dealership told me the part costs $190.00 at first I was disapointed with the car, but now I really hate it and can't wait to get rid of this stupid thing.

Wow. I have a 1999 Cougar V6 2.5L and have been happy with it as a car. I had a few service issues, and one lately that still has me and the mechanics baffled. Here they are:

1) 5 or 6 recalls that I know of, fixed for free at the dealer. Seems a lot to me, but it was my first NEW car where I received these recall notices... so maybe not?

2) Had to change the alternator TWICE... got about 3 years from each (original, and the one the dealer put in). After the last install (by small town mechanic) my dash lights and headlights dim/flicker/pulsate...not sure if it's poor replacement alternator or if it's something now wiring harness related (as another post here states problems with).

3) I had the P0171 and P0174 too lean codes on my car; 1st time I changed Mass Air Flow sensor myself, lasted 1 year, had it again with Rough idle/died at stop lights... took it in and changed UPPER AND LOWER INTAKE MANIFOLD GASKETS (about 115000 miles, 7 years old)...seemed to do the trick.

4) I had my sun/moon roof rails bind up and break... was still under warranty. It bound up tight and they had a heck of a time getting it popped open. Replaced rails, instructed me to use a WHITE GREASE to lube the rails (generously) and check it periodically and reapply. My suggestion: if you hear any grunting/grinding noises, however low (other than motor sound to open) then you NEED TO LUBE YOUR TRACKS... or it will eventually bind up/break.

5) TIRES, seem to wear a lot on the rear. On this car you either need to rotate tires REGULARLY or NOT AT ALL (because if you don't do it for awhile then you rotate, I got a flat spot/thumping which caused vibration... kind of a pain. I didn't notice any vibration issues until I did the first tire rotate 10's of thousands of miles in to them...oops!)

6) The current issue: Car was running fine, visiting folks, tried to start after sitting for two days and THE CAR WOULD CRANK AND TURN OVER, but NOT START (never would get up to idle). Mech said the spark plugs were 'fuel soaked'...duh, I tried it several times... but that means we WERE GETTING FUEL, eh? They changed plugs and even spark plug wires, magically it started just fine...3 weeks later it WOULD NOT START with same symptoms (after driving it to work just fine, would not start at lunch time). A different group looked at it, but it STARTED JUST FINE FOR THEM AFTER SITTING ON THEIR LOT (was towed) FOR THE WEEKEND. One more week went by, IT WOULD NOT START... ALWAYS THE SAME SYMPTOMS (cranks, turns over, just doesn't seems to combust and get up to idle...I'm thinking ELECTRICAL PROBLEM)... HOWEVER... I let it sit for 2 days and IT STARTED JUST FINE. Bad thing is I can't trust the car to take it far from home anymore since I don't know if it will magically 'not start' on me. HAS ANYONE HAD THIS EXPERIENCE OR can you suggest what to look for?

I had a shop run full diagnostics on it, but since it ran for them just fine everything showed GOOD and passed. They found something about some C120 connector or something online and cleaned up it and some other connectors (but it failed to start 1 week later as mentioned above).

Really, overall for 7+ years my problems have been MINOR save what's happening now (it's affecting my lifestyle/where I feel I can drive to).

Anyway, there are my comments for the review/survey. If anyone has more details about the mysterious NO-START problem please email me: blademan33@insightbb.com.

99 cougar rio red. Manual trans, 2nd and 3rd will not get in at 3k+ RPM I just need to wait for a half second so the rpm slow down a little bit and then it will get in just fine. Haven't repair it yet They said it was 200 to fix some of the internal parts + installation. I will go back to the shop when it gets to a real problem, it has been the same problem since it started, had not got bigger. not a big problem. Alternator has start to show symthomps of dying. Panel lights pulsing when stopped at street red lights. 90 to do a reconstruction of my damaged alternator+ installation. Not a big problem, have not replaced it yet. check engine light won't go off. A slight smell of burned fuel from the muffler. They said it was the cathalyc converter. Replaced it. light went off. smell went away as well. Still getting a low coolant light on. I've checked on the internet and found something about a bad coolant deposit. Have not replaced it. IS not a big deal for me to have a light turned on in the panel as long the car starts fine idles fine and runs fine.

The only big problems I really had to fix was the water pump base was cracked and leaking coolant. Who knows what could cause that. they said it was cause because of the high temps and low temps changes this part is exposed to.

The car has been overall a good nice looking car. Cost me 3000dlls. Last year. And if a could make a suggestion here is, if you can repair it your self, do it, and you could save your self some hundreds. Research over the internet for the best priced part from a known brand instead of just getting what the mechanic gives you. Buy you own parts. Branded parts last longer that means less time in the shop. It not really a bad car it just needs more frequent periodical checks than the other more expensive cars.

I have recently bought a Mercury 2000 cougar V6 and suddenly it's check engine light came on. I have read reviews, but there seems no sure shot solution to this problem. I am sick of seeing this light. Does any one have an idea how to unplug that light because I know it's going to stay forever.

For those of you having alternator problems, try running a jumper wire from the red wire on the alternator plug to the output terminal on the alternator. The dealer said there was suposed to be a recall on this, and that's the same thing the dealer I took my car to did to fix my problem.

Wow, I'm glad to see I'm not the only one with problems with this car (99 cougar). love driving it (it's my first manual transmission car!), but I almost wish i'd never bought it. I've had to completely replace the parking brake, get new wheel bearings, and now I am experiencing the engine light being on -- apparently it's the catalytic converter, or so says mr mechanic. the oil pan is also leaking. I really need a car to get to school (30 miles away from my work) and I don't want to go through the process of buying another vehicle (which could just as well have as many problem as this one), but boyyy has this car been a pain -- and I haven't even had it a whole year. sigh. : (any thoughts on the resale value or reselling process for this vehicle? I have poured so much money into it that i'll never get back out... ugh.

"And the issues continue...1999 V-6, automatic, 95K miles and here's the latest problems with it:

1. Service Code P1744: Torque converter clutch stuck in off position (rebuild tranny = $ 2300 +/-) "

Whoa! That sounds like a "chain store" price. Shop around at the independent shops. I had my transmission rebuilt at a private shop for $591, including a new torque converter, after Aamco quoted me $1,200.

I have replaced the engine, the battery, wiring, alternator, O2 snesors, reprogramed the computer twice in it, and still the check engine light is on. I have put too much money into this thing. I do not recommend this car to anyone that lives in a state where there are emissions tests or any type of tests that need to be done to the car to get plates. This is a very bad love/hate relationship right now...

I have a 1999 v6 cougar. ir is is great shape i.e. no mechanical problems... however the check engine light won't turn off. in the manual it suggests getting better fuel, gas cap was left off... all problems relating to the gas. I have got higher quality fuel and I know I always put the gas cap on. what could the problem be?!?

I've got a 2000 cougar, I'm having problems with the lights flickering/pulsating... the lights only flicker while the engine is running... I had the main battery harness replaced, alternator replaced, anbd battery replaced less than a year ago... the emissions light is on also, inspections up, affaid to bring it in cuz they will scrape my existing sticker off and ask for 1,000 bucks to replace what ever is wrong with the vehicle.. I love the car to death, but it seems like theres always some small problem... also... is there any easy way to change the spark plugs on this thing???