17th Jan 2007, 08:52
The EGR code you're getting could be related to the EGR Pressure Feedback Sensor... commonly known as the EFP sensor. On a lot of Ford made vehicles it will throw the EGR code because it has no code named for the EFP sensor. The part will cost around $60.00 and it is really a trial and error replacement. Do some research and check out your options to spend the $60 or have the little light on in the left corner.
30th Jan 2007, 11:38
I am amazed at all the problems with the 1999 cougar. I also have one, I've had it for seven years, brand new.
I have replaced the tires, the battery and the brakes once.
My car has not been that much of a problem, but here is what I have experienced.
The sunroof is off track, tilts a little when I close it.
My main problem at this time is that on a cold day this week when I turn the ignition the car began idling really fast, then it would die down and kept fluctuating from high to low then it cut off. While I was driving it started idling very fast again and when I pressed on the brakes the car did not stop immediately. I have parked it until I can take it to the shop and I am so afraid it will cost and arm and a leg.
I just had my car serviced and inspected in November. The mechanic said the car has an oil leak, but I would think an oil leak would leave oil spots in my drivway or wherever I park and that is not the case. I check the oil frequently since then and it seems to be fine. Could the mechanic have been seeing another oil leak of some sort, I'm paranoid about car repairs because sometimes you take your car in for one thing and they discover several others and there goes your checkbook.
Anyone experiencing these problems or have a solution please let me know.
31st Jan 2007, 20:22
I myself have a '99 Cougar and although I haven't had near the problems some of you have had I still think it's a piece of junk. If anyone has a code reading that they engine is running lean or something to that effect, try dropping some gas line antifreeze into your fuel tank. It's done the trick for me on 2 occasions where the check engine light has come on. I'm not sure why, but my car seems pretty picky on the gas it gets and I have often even thrown in the highest grade gasoline. I'm hoping to have this car paid off in a year and then buy myself something much better!!!
2nd Feb 2007, 19:28
Mine is a 2000 Cougar and bought it used 1 year ago with 84,400 miles on it
I have had a couple of problems with it, but they have been solved except 1 with a little digging!
The main issue was all lights were flickering while driving and dimming with the use of the brake lights!
Took it back to the dealer and the Mechanic found that both Wiring Harnesses to the Alternator were corroded inside the looms. They replaced one loom (Stator) and had to skin back the other one (Alternator) and cut out the bad wires and splice in some new ones, Problem has been solved.
Apparently, this has been an on going thing and will cause the burning out of the Alternator if not repaired!!
There is one other thing with the Electrical system and that is the routing of the Positive cable from the battery, and if not rerouted it will wear off the insulation and short out the battery or the Alternator, or worse still cause a fire!!,there is a service bulletin on this at any Ford or Mercury Dealer.
Also Regarding the rough idling, stalling, no getup and go, etc.there was a Recall (try this Number 04N02) on that one, which involved replacing...
1..Fuel Pump Delivery Module
2..Fuel sender and Pump Assembly
All done with no charge!!
Have not had the Engine Warning light thing yet, but it is most likely the Gas Cap, common thing with the Taurus also up to Model Year 2003..
My Sunroof is Toast now also, (Broken Rail) Right side, I found a service bulletin (TSP 99-19-3 Sept 99) on that also Which says If Sunroof makes squeaks Sqawck's and grinding noises when opening or closing it needs the "Slider Boots" replaced!! or it will cause a Failure!!
I hope this will help out someone with their problems.
3rd Feb 2007, 14:23
I don't understand. If this is the only problem you've had, it sounds like a pretty good car. Have you read the owner's manual? The highest grade isn't always best for a car. Most cars are designed to run on 87, and they don't want you putting 93 in. Seems like you may be blaming the car unfairly for something that is operator error (i.e. your fault).
10th Feb 2007, 20:38
You're correct regarding the octane of gasoline. A quick lesson in gasoline, higher octane SLOWS the burning process of gasoline, and is used in higher compression engines to eliminate pinging. As the gas / air mixture is compressed in the engine, if the octane is too low, the heat caused by the pressure in the cylinder will cause the gas / air mixture to pre-ignite. As the piston gets near "top dead center", that's when the engine sparks the spark plug and now you have 2 explosion fronts inside the cylinder going towards each other. When they meet, you get a knock. Using a higher octane fuel will stop the pressure ignition of the fuel in this higher compression engine. Some people see the Corvette using premium (93 octane) and think if they put that in their engine that requires regular (87 octane) that their car will go faster!
If you use high octane fuel in an engine that requires 87 octane, the burn is still slowed to the point that some unburned fuel goes out your exhaust, and lowering your power, mileage, and leaving deposits in your cylinders. After many years of using too high an octane, these deposits actually take up enough space in your cylinders that you now NEED premium fuel to stop the knock.
A good example of an engine that has "pressure / heat" ignited fuel is the diesel engine, which uses 40 octane fuel and doesn't need spark plugs to ignite the fuel mixture. It's the heat caused by the pressure of compression in the cylinder.
Basically, it's best to use whatever octane the manufacturer recommends.
12th Feb 2007, 16:37
I have a 99 Cougar and its crap I have had a ton of front end problems I keep going through bearings, I have replaced an axle, brake rotors just a couple months ago, and guess what I have to change them again. I am told there is nothing wrong with the calipers, but like everyone else my check engine light has been on for over a year, I have replaced both oxygen sensors, now when I start it it revs very low and starts to act like it is going to die, but keeps running. While driving it runs fine. Also my drivers side window won't go down. When I took it to Auto Zone they can't even get the codes to come up at all. So my next guess is the egr, but who really knows I hate this car.