| Year of manufacture | 1991 |
| Most recent year of ownership | 2005 |
| Engine and transmission | gaas Don't Know |
| Performance marks | 10 / 10 |
| Reliability marks | 10 / 10 |
| Comfort marks | 10 / 10 |
| Running Costs (higher is cheaper) | 10 / 10 |
| Overall marks (average of all marks) |
10.0 / 10
|
Summary:
It is really great!
Faults:
Nothing! It is a really good car and very comfortable!
General Comments:
I love this car! It is very comfortable and drives really great! I want to keep this car as long as possible! It is a great first car.
Would you buy another car from this manufacturer? Yes
Review Date: 22nd April, 2005
| Year of manufacture | 1991 |
| First year of ownership | 2004 |
| Most recent year of ownership | 2004 |
| Engine and transmission | 1.8 turbo Manual |
| Performance marks | 8 / 10 |
| Reliability marks | 9 / 10 |
| Comfort marks | 7 / 10 |
| Dealer Service marks | 6 / 10 |
| Running Costs (higher is cheaper) | 8 / 10 |
| Overall marks (average of all marks) |
7.6 / 10
|
| Distance when acquired | 152000 miles |
| Most recent distance | 155000 miles |
| Previous car | Citroen AX |
Summary:
Bargain of the century paid £150 for it at auction I took a chance on it and its been fine
Faults:
When I purchased it from the auction it had a sticky offside brake caliper, but was soon rectified by myself.
General Comments:
Well performance is very good it is not modified in anyway, but is good for 140mph (Private test track)
Would you buy another car from this manufacturer? No
Review Date: 1st July, 2004
| Year of manufacture | 1991 |
| First year of ownership | 2001 |
| Most recent year of ownership | 2004 |
| Engine and transmission | 1.8 turbo Manual |
| Performance marks | 9 / 10 |
| Reliability marks | 10 / 10 |
| Comfort marks | 10 / 10 |
| Dealer Service marks | 0 / 10 |
| Running Costs (higher is cheaper) | 7 / 10 |
| Overall marks (average of all marks) |
7.2 / 10
|
| Distance when acquired | 225000 kilometres |
| Most recent distance | 260000 kilometres |
| Previous car | Mitsubishi Eclipse |
Summary:
Great second vehicle
Faults:
200$ for the car
300$ for new back tires and replacing the under carriage
200$ for new clutch @ 260 km
400$ all new tires also @ 260 km.
The car is not meant for all weather driving, it's a sport car not good for your only vehicle.
I would have paid a lot more than 200$
General Comments:
I got the car used, and it was headed for the junk yard. The guy, who owned it before me got a divorce as he was leaving the country, left it with his soon to be ex wife and she put it in the ditch. The cheapest mechanic she took it to would not fix it for less than four grand. So I picked it up for two hundred, and fixed it myself. I ended up paying about 500$ including the price of the car, and now with the latest work I'm looking at about 1100$ not bad, and I love the car.
Would you buy another car from this manufacturer? Yes
Review Date: 4th May, 2004
Just bought my '93 200sx 5 days ago and loving it. 166000km on the clock, 233bhp and 173kw, bought from a perfectionist, this car is mint. Almost no turbo lag and pulls all the way to the top, makes boy racers look very very small in the rear view mirror. Nothing to date to complain about apart from a rattling exhaust silencer (bumping against the tow hook), a dash rattle on right hand side and a loose front right shock only audible on bumpy roads. Can get thirsty if pushed, 9.87km per liter if driven responsibly. Rear seating for two children up to 14 and a large dog, not together though, boot space adequate for two peoples luggage for a weekend, depending on your girlfriend. Like the shape of the seats, but the upholstery will sag if used too often. Parking really easy due to tight turning circle, but quite low so watch out for speed bumps and access to driveways. Imperative to leave idling for a minute after driving, but could be solved with a turbo protector. In the wet watch out for the rear stepping out, could catch you off guard, but in a controlled slide, what a pleasure. Change the oil every 10 000km and save your turbo. Performance to money ratio -nothing can touch a 200 SX.
| Year of manufacture | 1991 |
| First year of ownership | 2002 |
| Most recent year of ownership | 2003 |
| Engine and transmission | 1.8 turbo Manual |
| Performance marks | 8 / 10 |
| Reliability marks | 3 / 10 |
| Comfort marks | 6 / 10 |
| Dealer Service marks | 3 / 10 |
| Running Costs (higher is cheaper) | 2 / 10 |
| Overall marks (average of all marks) |
4.4 / 10
|
| Distance when acquired | 87000 miles |
| Most recent distance | 93000 miles |
Summary:
Great fun, but consider saving up for a series 14 instead
Faults:
For the previous owner, the turbo bearings went due to a block in the original, u-bended, turbo oil-feed pipe.
Big-end bearings subsequently went due to age and turbo bearing particles in oil.
For me...
The new turbo smoked and produced excessive lag for about a year before I replaced it.
The engine developed a rattle which turned out to be big-end bearings again.
The engine was replaced with a lower mileage Japanese engine. This engine also rattles, probably due to big-ends, hence car is currently off the road.
Clutch slave cylinder has burst, possibly contributing to the destruction of a new clutch within 40 miles.
Bodywork is corroding, although easily treatable. Rear chassis sub-frame will eventually need replacing due to rust.
4 Hydraulic tappets broken.
Drivers seat snapped internally - welding required.
When I bought this car, I hadn't even changed a tyre before. I can now remove and rebuild 200sx engines - the only cost-effective way to keep this car going.
General Comments:
Deceptively cheap. To keep a 12-year 200sx on the road for long will probably cost more than the initial outlay for the car.
Design flaw in the engine bearings causes frequent engine failure around 90,000 miles. Engine removal with a crankshaft regrind and new bearings will most likely be required, costing about £200 for parts. Add another £600 for a garage to do this procedure for you.
Modified/uprated engines are much more prone to failure.
Immense fun to drive, almost (but not) outweighing the time and money involved in keeping the car going. Engine roars and turbo-boost is too addictive. One of the best cars to go sideways in.
Turbo lag means the car will seem sluggish to most drivers up to 3500 rpm. This can be avoided with clutch-straining, high-rpm racing starts.
Dangerous in wet/icy conditions. Avoid using the turbo on roundabouts, never jerk the steering wheel round corners. Pre-'92 models have no ABS so locking the wheels in the wet is not difficult.
When inspecting, rev the engine to 2500 rpm and listen for knocking, rattling or thumping when holding or releasing the throttle. If this is OK, listen at idle particularly once the car is warmed up. Resonance 'rasping' and fuel-injector ticking are O.K., but any rattles - WALK AWAY.
Also have a thorough look underneath the car for rust - check the chassis, sills, jack points (on sills), wheel arches and underneath the rear spoiler.
Blue smoke indicates turbo failure (most likely), valve oil seal failure or piston ring failure.
Fuel economy passable - expect no more than 30mpg on long journeys and near 20 around town (make sure timing, thermostat, Fuel/Air and idling speed are set correctly or it will be worse)
Nothing can guarantee a car will survive long after purchase. Service history helps, but how do you know if the car hasn't been thrashed every day of its life? You may find a great example, most often you will not. Do NOT buy the first one you see. Good luck hunting.
Would you buy another car from this manufacturer? Yes
Review Date: 17th November, 2003