30th Apr 2007, 17:21
Own a 2001 GLE that has ~114k. Have replaced the Mass Airflow Sensor, drivers side front wheel bearing, and am now having a mechanic replace a coil on the 6th cylinder. After reading all the posts I've learned that: A) I could've replaced the coil myself, and B) Need to think about trading it off! Thanks for all the info though.
31st May 2007, 23:44
I have a 2000 Maxima SE, and I don't worry about the check engine light at all. My light has been on for about oh 1.5 years/40,000 miles or so, and in that time span I have driven from SE North Carolina to Boston and back, three times in 14 hour increments without any issue at all.
Prior to this I drove to Baltimore MD every other weekend from NC and back without issue. This has been in addition to my daily driving which, until recently, has been 2+ hours a day on highway at speeds of 85-100 mph. I have been asleep twice and woken up to my friend driving at 134mph and 117mph. I have pushed and pushed this car, and at 110,000 miles it is still running strong. Quite frankly a little light that has been there for this long without causing any problems doesn't concern me. I just need to figure out how to pass my emissions... I think I'll try that GTP stuff.
The only other issue is the car bucking on start up (mine has for a year plus now). I just let it warm up prior to driving.
Overall this car has given me really no major issues, and has been very reliable.
Oh, and I've also been in two front end fender benders, and smashed a curb on the front right tire at 30 mph. Even after that, no major problems. This car is sweet.
4th Jun 2007, 15:55
Have a 2000 Maxima SE, at 114,000KM. The car runs well (yes, I had my share of check engine light, ignition coil gone bad; hiccup on cold start, etc. experiences) and I have not noticed any significant noises from the front end. Dealer tells me that the front end control arm ball joints are worn and need to be replaced, at $800. I don't drive aggressively, and most of the mileage is driven in the city on good pavement. Can this be possible? Any similar experiences from anyone out there?
16th Jun 2007, 15:18
2001 Nissan Maxima in Massachusetts cannot pass insp with SES light. I went to mechanic, he reads codes, says it is the two back O2 sensors. Replace those. Pay $500. Get a rejection insp sticker. Within 12 hours, light is back on. I cannot afford to get into a spiral of repairs and costs. What is my likely future in repairs...anyone?
1st Jul 2007, 17:18
I also was having problem with service engine light
I replaced the mass air flow sensor after dealer told me it would be around 400 for them to do job. I picked one up from junk yard for 100. 10 min fix... car is running great.
13th Jul 2007, 12:44
I had the same issue with my 2000 SE Maxima a cpl years ago. I had to replace the coils, luckily it was under warranty, but now I'm noticing the same problems this past winter. Fine during the summer though. Anyway anyone have problems with a rattling under the car near the front. I can feel it near the floor when I'm driving. It started occurring when I went over uneven/bumpy road. I had it checked out and was told nothing was wrong. Well now it's starting to become more prevalent. Any ideas?
17th Jul 2007, 22:50
I just purchased my first car, a 2000 Maxima SE with 114,000 miles. When I hit the throttle it bogs and won't accelerate. If you ease off the throttle, it will get to a point that it will pick up and go. (stays around 4000 and bogs there). I think it's not fuel pump, but I'm not sure, can anyone help me with this...
24th Jul 2007, 06:31
I have a 1999 Maxima SE, with 121,000 miles on it. I took the car in for a oil change, tune up, and a full transmission flush, The car was running fine before work was done, now it is kinda hiccuping when I idle at a light or a stop sign. Took it back to shop and was told that it may be the throttle position sensor causing it to run like this. Anyone else had this problem?
31st Jul 2007, 20:13
If your 2000+ maxima runs like crap when cold give it gas shakes hiccups, but is fine when it warms up, you scan and get O2 or cat don't replace any of these. save your time and money just put on a maf (mass airflow sensor), guaranteed to have a max life of 80,000 no more. problems will be solved. Thank me later!!!
8th Aug 2007, 18:14
I have a 2002 Nissan Maxima GLE with 83,400 miles on it with a "Service Engine Soon" issue. The light first came on at the end of Jan. 07 with 78,986 miles. I read the manual, tried tightening the gas cap as the manual recommended, but ended having to take it to the dealer because the light wouldn't go off. I was told the oxygen sensor was bad ($298.53 later.) The invoice says codes: P0139 & P1147 - showing defective rear 02 sensor bank 1. Well, now it's Aug. 07 with 83,400 miles and the light is back on. I was told that I needed a new vent control valve which affects the emission system. The service rep said best case scenario was replacing this for $262 (P+L). He also said worst case scenario was that if that didn't work, I would need a charcoal canister which then brought my cost to a total of $474.00. Of course the follow-up phone call I got after I authorized the work was that it did "unfortunately require the canister". Figures. That's when I simply plugged in "Nissan Maxima Vent Control Valve" into Google and found this site. I found this alarming to say the least. I know most of you are referencing the 2000 Maxima, but is anyone else out there experiencing this with the 2002? I can't help but think I'm being taken for a ride by my Nissan dealership. Help!
10th Aug 2007, 01:48
I bought my 2000 Maxima from a guy that already did the research about the SES light. Of course mine is lit, and Autozone said it's the code for the O2 sensor.
It was explained to me there are two banks of catalytic converters on this car, and the computer compares the values between the banks of O2 sensors. If the value exceeds a certain parameter, it throws a code. In no way has it affected how the car drives, and I regularly get 28mpg on the highway. I did replace the MAF sensor due to slight stumbling issues which helped quite a bit. Not expensive, about $40 for a genuine Nissan part.
I advise everyone on here that has a thrown SES light to get the codes read, and unless it's one for the coil, just ignore it and drive as usual. No need to freak out or spend insane amounts of money at the dealer. Someone mentioned the SES light is there as a money maker, I tend to agree.