2000 Nissan Maxima GLE from North America - Comments

I'm really sad, I didn't see this site before I bought my 2000 GLE, approximately 3-weeks ago. I've taken the car back to the dealership (5) times with a different issue each time. The electrical systems (sensors) seems to be the problem in general out here. SES light on each time, only to come on the next day after reset. The dealership has attempted to resolve the problems, i.e., cover the cost. O2 sensors/MAF/now coils & plugs. what's next?? A blessing to me after seeing the cost so many have had to bear with this particular model car. No out of pocket, yet. Has anyone had the "Alternator" output assessed? In truth, I recommend that you don't buy the Nissan. Even if, they find the problem now, fix it, and ready to go. The car only has 63000 miles. WOW. Don't get caught up in the look or name. I wanted to buy a decent car for my wife to drive, and now I can't trust this vehicle. Can you?

I purchased a 2000 I30 (basically the same car as the Maxima) with 107K miles 6 months ago. I thought it would be a good first car for my son, but I suppose that's what I get for thinking.

Fortunately, I can fix almost anything myself, but I should have done more research on the cost of parts. For example, I knew the car needed a new front motor mount and figured the part would cost $60 - $70, boy was I surprised to find out that this car had "electronic" jell filled mounts that cost over $300 and the only place I could find them was at the dealership.

In addition to the motor mount, in this 6 month period I have replaced the brakes, struts, alternator, battery, leaking high pressure power steering line, MAF, Radiator, plugs and thermostat.

The brakes, struts, plugs and thermostat were simply general maintenance, the other components crapped out.

Long story short, the car ran great after replacing the MAF but 2 weeks later, the AAC valve is stuck in the open position. From what I understand from reading these news groups, once the AAC goes, you're almost guaranteed to need a new ECM because if it did not short out prior to the AAC replacement, it usually fails during the relearn process.

I am on the fence right now as to dump this piece of crap at auction or shell out the money for parts to fix it yet again. If I auction it off, the buyer will probably just replace the AAC and have a great car for years. If I keep it and replace the AAC, I'm sure it will need new O2 sensors, coils. the list goes on and on.

I have also had the urge to pop the hood, get a sledgehammer and "go to town".

Okay, so my story is just about the same as all the threads. Bought 2000 Maxima SE brand new, 60K miles to date, obviously don't drive far.

Up to last fall, no major repair issues. Alternator failed, replaced $300.. Immediately after, 2 of the O2 sensors replaced, not sure which ones, $1100.

This month service engine light on, traction control/slp lights all on, engine runs rough then smooths out at some point.. after 2 hours and guessing, one of the coils replaced and $300 later.

Have had the car back all of 2 days and SES light back on. Error code P1320, ignition sensors, but no clear idea if it is reading toward the MAF or additional coils. Working with a reputable dealer who quite frankly told me they had 12 pages of diagnostics on P1320, and if I wanted to spend 4 hours of time, they would look and try to a diagnosis.. recommend that I just continue to drive it..

Overall we have been very happy with the Maxima, a replacement of 3 priors.. the 96 year was the best for us.. I guess it will be time to move on very soon.. won't get stuck in this rut either.. thanks to everyone for all the posts of horror stories..

I have a 2000 Nissan Maxima. I also have the problem when slowing down to a stop; I have to ease the gas to keep it from stalling. It seems from the comments that no one is sure if the problem is the MAF or IAC. Can someone please shed some light on this problem?

For all those people that have a problem with stalling. I went through this problem a while back. I and my mechanic have spent a long time trying to figure out what it is. The problem got fixed after we replaced MAF (mass airflow filter). This http://www.greghome.com/images/Maxima%20Pics/Modifications/Performance%20Mods/MAFSensor/maf02.jpg is what the part should look like. Back in the day I got it of e-bay for half the price the dealership wanted. I have also had to replace one coil, but MAF was the core of the problem.

I just purchased a 2000 SE, and three days after I brought it, the SES light is on P0505 Idle control malfunction, it seems to be running fine, but before I go spending tons of money I plan to do further investigating!!!

I'm shaking in frustration cuz its inspection time again >:X.

I am an original owner of a 2000 Nissan Maxima SE. The car will be 10 yrs old this Sept. It has 111,xxx miles on it. Prior to purchasing it I spoke to owners of other Max's. The majority of them stated you will get tired of the car prior to wearing it out.

I am one of the few on here that is proud to say I am not tired of it and it is not worn out. Just came off of a 1,000 mile vacation with no problems. I have burned premium since day one. Run injector cleaner a minimum of every 10,xxx miles. I found a website (www.maxima.org) that has Maxima forums for each generation produced. I read it prior and after purchase. During the warranty period I printed every tech bulletin, gave it to the Nissan dealer and they performed them with no hesitation. I threw the coil code at 68,xxx miles. I produced a tech bulletin about the coil issues they were having. Dealer I bought it from replaced them via Nissan as a courtesy at no charge. I decided to change the plugs while they were in it and paid for them. Also had an MAF code and it was done under warranty. I have had the rotors turned about every 40,xxx. I do not ride my brakes (as I have gotten 85,xxx miles out of the front and back) so I agree the rotors are weak. When my tires are rotated, religiously at 5k, I do not allow the tire gorilla to use an air gun, only hand torque allowed. The starter went out, got a quote ($270, P&L from a non dealer) and decided to do it myself. I found out how to remove it from the website given earlier. Took it to a alternator/starter shop and for $30 have my starter good as new.

I run premium mainly because that is recommended. When the blended fuel was implemented in MO., my mileage went down by 10%. Went to the dealer and an independent and both found no problems. I then found a gas station that sells unblended premium and my mileage went back up. I get the sticker 20mpg city/28mpg highway. I have gotten up to 30mpg and that was on the interstate at 75-80mph.

I would love to purchase a new Maxima, but I don't want a payment. The car has been maintained consistently and am happy with the performance. Also, yes tires are an expense. But I decided to purchase Michelin Pilot Sport. An expensive tire, but well worth it.

Thanks for reading. Have a look at the website I quoted. It's well worth it.

Nissan really should recall the coils. I haven't met anyone who didn't need them replaced. The MAF is also a common problem along with O2 sensors. Do yourself a favor and buy a cheap OBD II reader to check and clear your check engine light. Much cheaper than bringing it to the shop every other week. Good, fun car to drive overall when it is working well. Must do regular maintenance on this car to get the most out of it.

I thank everyone for writing all what they wrote. I was just in process to purchase a 2000 Nissan Maxima GLE. The car looks great, I loved it, miles seem a little high at 113k but it is still at blue book value. However, after reading all of this about the coils issues, I am sure I would have the same problem! I mean the reviews go back to 2006 with everyone having same problems! Thanks guys for input!