16th Dec 2008, 16:01
Just bought my Max in August used from a dealer. Kind of stuck because I financed the car. Getting the sputtering of the engine intermittently! Really burning me up because it is the freakin winter!!! Anyone sure of what the problem may be? Please help soon!!!
31st Dec 2008, 16:04
Woooow, it is unbelievable how many people are suffering from the same problems with Nissan over and over.
I bought my 2000 Maxima SE a year ago, I had to change the MAF sensor since the car was not passing 4000RPM and the gas mileage was horrible. The light also went away after I replaced the MAF sensor, but ever since then I had no problems, the car has 165000km on it.
Keeping in mind that I only put supreme gas in the car, and that helps. I have also changed the spark plugs at 153000km. Now recently I have two problems.
1- If the weather is cold and I start up the car, the car shakes while driving, and the shaking goes away when I apply more gas, this problem goes away after the car is fully warmed up.
2- Second problem is that sometimes when I come to stop the car just installs and the idle drops to 0 and the car shuts off, this problem does not happen frequently, but once in a while I tried cleaning my throttle body and it helped, but did not solve the problem. I own a standard model, don't know if that makes any difference.
I was wondering if there is anyone here who had these problem fixed and now knows exactly the cause of the problem? My SES light is not on ever since I changed the MAF, and besides these problem I love the car, however would never ever everrrrr buy a Nissan everrr again. I appreciate it if you could help me out.
5th Jan 2009, 14:27
Guess what, I have a 2000 Maxima GLE and the SES is never off. I've replaced sparks, MAF, motor fans, transmission, starter, rotors, CV joints, tie rods and now I need either new O2 sensors and probably a new cat! Oh and I must have replaced the tires about six times due to unusual wear.
The kicker is I only work about 5 miles from where I live. The car design is a complete lemon and Nissan should recall the whole lot!
9th Jan 2009, 15:14
After seeing all the comments here, I feel that I m not the only person suffering from problems with Nissan Maxima.
It all started a year ago after I bought 2000 Maxima - with 76K miles on it. After I bought the car, I took the car to Nissan dealer to do the Multi-point inspection ($100+). Few months after, SES popped up. Dealer said Oxygen sensor issue - costed 350$ to replace it. SES popped up again after 3 months, dealer said this time the Rear side oxygen sensor is a problem - paid another 350$. Car was smooth for a while (5 months), SES popped again. This time dealer said the issue is with crankshaft sensor - 250$ (got a discount of 100$).
Drove the car for 4 months without any issues. Another issue - this time battery light and brake light popped up in the dashboard. Dealer is saying that Alternator and the belts are bad and he is asking 550$ (parts + labour) to fix it. I m going to pay it on Monday and that's about it. I will sell the car.
Altogether in 1 year I just put on 5000 Miles.
I request you to please spread the word - Buying a Nissan is like buying an Elephant. you can buy, but you cannot maintain it.
I have already started advising my friends not to fall on the 'Nissan Cars' Trap. I will never ever ever ever ever go for a NISSAN CAR.
13th Jan 2009, 12:51
I am in the same boat. I have Maxima 2000 GLE.
Have had the ignition coils replaced 4 years ago, CV replaced an year ago.
A few months ago, the car started showing some jerkiness for few seconds without any gas (only for first few seconds of driving) and the SES went ON (and went OFF after few weeks), but it came back ON and AAA initial check ($10 value) said an issue in O2 sensor bank (after the cat converter).
I decided to not get it fixed, and surprisingly, the SES light went OFF after a week. Well, after a happy month without the SES, it came back ON. Got it checked - the reason again is O2 sensors.
It is costing my pocket ~$400 at AAA ($90 for the detailed diagnosis, PLUS $300 for O2 sensors and labor). :-( Have spent a lot of money on the Maxima. Not too happy about it, of course.
I am going to call Nissan Consumer Affairs as well.
14th Jan 2009, 13:30
I'm really sad, I didn't see this site before I bought my 2000 GLE, approximately 3-weeks ago. I've taken the car back to the dealership (5) times with a different issue each time. The electrical systems (sensors) seems to be the problem in general out here. SES light on each time, only to come on the next day after reset. The dealership has attempted to resolve the problems, i.e., cover the cost. O2 sensors/MAF/now coils & plugs. what's next?? A blessing to me after seeing the cost so many have had to bear with this particular model car. No out of pocket, yet. Has anyone had the "Alternator" output assessed? In truth, I recommend that you don't buy the Nissan. Even if, they find the problem now, fix it, and ready to go. The car only has 63000 miles. WOW. Don't get caught up in the look or name. I wanted to buy a decent car for my wife to drive, and now I can't trust this vehicle. Can you?
13th Feb 2009, 22:59
I purchased a 2000 I30 (basically the same car as the Maxima) with 107K miles 6 months ago. I thought it would be a good first car for my son, but I suppose that's what I get for thinking.
Fortunately, I can fix almost anything myself, but I should have done more research on the cost of parts. For example, I knew the car needed a new front motor mount and figured the part would cost $60 - $70, boy was I surprised to find out that this car had "electronic" jell filled mounts that cost over $300 and the only place I could find them was at the dealership.
In addition to the motor mount, in this 6 month period I have replaced the brakes, struts, alternator, battery, leaking high pressure power steering line, MAF, Radiator, plugs and thermostat.
The brakes, struts, plugs and thermostat were simply general maintenance, the other components crapped out.
Long story short, the car ran great after replacing the MAF but 2 weeks later, the AAC valve is stuck in the open position. From what I understand from reading these news groups, once the AAC goes, you're almost guaranteed to need a new ECM because if it did not short out prior to the AAC replacement, it usually fails during the relearn process.
I am on the fence right now as to dump this piece of crap at auction or shell out the money for parts to fix it yet again. If I auction it off, the buyer will probably just replace the AAC and have a great car for years. If I keep it and replace the AAC, I'm sure it will need new O2 sensors, coils. the list goes on and on.
I have also had the urge to pop the hood, get a sledgehammer and "go to town".