2001 Oldsmobile Alero Reviews - Page 6 of 34

2001 Oldsmobile Alero LX from North America

Model year2001
Year of manufacture2000
First year of ownership2002
Most recent year of ownership2008
Engine and transmission Don't Know
Reliability marks 6 / 10
Comfort marks 6 / 10
Dealer Service marks 6 / 10
Running Costs (higher is cheaper) 5 / 10
Overall marks (average of all marks)
5.8 / 10
Distance when acquired12000 miles
Most recent distance82000 miles

Faults:

The front bearing have given us problems. The first time we had both front bearing replaced; that was approximately a year ago. Since then, the front left bearing has been replaced 2 more times (March 2008 and August 2008). I am curious if anyone knows of a way to fix the issue so it operates as normal wear and tear. I hate to think that every 5-6 months, we will have to have the car serviced.

General Comments:

The car has been good other than the bearing. We currently keep it as a second vehicle.

Would you buy another car from this manufacturer? Don't Know

Review Date: 20th August, 2008

2001 Oldsmobile Alero GL 2.4 4 cylinder from North America

Model year2001
Year of manufacture2001
First year of ownership2007
Most recent year of ownership2008
Engine and transmission 2.4 4 cylinder Automatic
Performance marks 5 / 10
Reliability marks 6 / 10
Comfort marks 8 / 10
Dealer Service marks 1 / 10
Running Costs (higher is cheaper) 8 / 10
Overall marks (average of all marks)
5.6 / 10
Distance when acquired130000 miles
Most recent distance134500 miles
Previous carPontiac Grand Am

Summary:

Good "high maintenance", "glitchy", "wobbly ride" kinda car!

Faults:

When I first got this car in August of 2007, I read all about the problems with the car.

At the time the Service Engine, Trac Off, and ABS lights were on, and I spent $1,500, which included the new hubs, rotors, brakes, spark plugs or some box of some kind, that is what the spark plugs are for this car, and fuel filter. All those lights remained on, and the mechanic could not explain it.

I had also asked for new calipers, which were not done, and the emergency brake pulls up and won't lock; they didn't check that either.

It feels as if there is a pulsating in the driver's side front wheel, and it seems to wear the brakes down because they constantly squeak.

The fan blower levels only work past the 3rd setting.

Just recently was the Passlock theft system; the car was driven to work, then went to leave, and it would crank but not start. I thought fuel pump, computer, ignition cylinder, timing belt and so much more that I knew would cost out the waahoo. Then I read online about the Passlock, then went to owner's manual (I am lucky it was with the car); it confirmed what others were saying about how to reset the Passlock.

Another thing - I went and got a new key made, mine was pretty worn and it was the only one I had. It was less than $2. I am going to get another the next time I am at Lowe's.

Then got to the car... praying... got in the car with the new key and turned it to start it (the SECURITY light was flashing), so I left the key in the "ON" position (NOT ACC) for 10.5 minutes and the SECURITY light stopped flashing and was just lit... praying... I turn the key and it STARTS.. WHEW!!!

But from trying to start it, it smelled as if it had been flooded. The gas fumes were a little overwhelming, but the wind was blowing a lot to help fan them out. Part of my rancid carbon print on this earth. Sorry :(

I do hope others read this before they get a hack mechanic that charges them for a fuel pump, which costs ranging $500-$700... I found the part online for $180, which included shipping. They were $240 at the local auto parts stores. Also the computer was found online for $80, not including shipping, and the ignition cylinder was $125 online, not including shipping. So in the future, if you have to get these replaced, you will know what that mechanic is making off you.

General Comments:

If it wasn't for the ABS being disabled, I would have crammed someone getting on the interstate, who decided to stop at the end of the ramp going onto the interstate.

I looked and everyone had merged over, and that person was far ahead of me, and by the time I looked up, they crammed on their brakes and their rear end of that car bounced in the air, and so I had no choice other than to cram mine and RUBBER SMOKE had my car engulfed, and I was waiting to hear that "smack" as I grit my teeth and pray my car stops and missed them, and there was no one behind me.

I was so thankful that the thing that didn't work on my car, saved me from an increase on my insurance.

Otherwise with the ABS working, it would have made that famous clicking sound, and released the brakes halfway through the skid.

I hate that about ABS, let people understand how to pump their brakes when you need, and to cram them when they need to avoid someone coming to a complete stop, getting onto a 70mph interstate in evening traffic.

Would you buy another car from this manufacturer? No

Review Date: 17th May, 2008

8th Sep 2009, 14:10

ABS will slow you down much faster than non ABS cars. Sliding your car to a stop is ridiculous. You slow down much quicker if the brakes are pumping (ie ABS.) Everyone knows that if your car is sliding and not equipped with ABS, you should pump the brakes in order to get the brakes not to lock up. I hope you like the newly created flat spots on your tires :D.

9th Jan 2010, 20:34

Now we know why you have a wobbly ride.

Average review marks: 6.0 / 10, based on 114 reviews