31st Jul 2008, 08:29
After reading a few of the comments made I have to say, this car will have the problems people claim. I'm at 230,000 miles. I'm on the third transmission, the car has been painted every year since 1995,I check my timing chain, block and everything that had to do with the engin. Years ago the frustration of repair became nerve racking but what I found out once you repair these issues the car runs long and fine. Most people wouldn't do what I've done. But I see the money I've put into it and letting some other driver take over would be a great blessing for that driver.
4th Aug 2008, 14:37
I purchased a 1995 Aurora in April 08. It had about 180,000 miles on it and ran like a Cadillac -- until it rained. For some reason when it would rain, it would act a complete fool and put me down. It would start to miss and then flood out. Then it wouldn't start. I have had that car pushed out of the street and towed numerous times. I got tired of watching the news to find out if I would need to get a ride to work or school the next day. Then it started doing it when it wasn't raining. I had to wait about 1 day for it to act right again and if it rained for days on end I was just screwed. It backfired when I started it up and the material in the top of the hood caught fire. Luckily my boyfriend was at my house and got it put out. I had the ignition sensor in the steering column replace and some belts and hoses. It still didn't work correctly. I had the same problem that another person had with the gas pedal pushing back at me making a knocking sound. Key stopped working. The security light kept coming on which meant that I had to sit wherever I was until I could get it started. It died on me last Tues and I got rid of it today. Luckily I don't owe anymore on it.
25th Aug 2008, 15:51
I purchased a 1995 Aurora for my 17 year old daughter! What a lemon! It has been broke down more than on the road. The blower wouldn't shut off after the key was off, then the car surged terribly and would backfire, there is a vibration at around 65 mph, now the car won't start. And when it does start, it won't start the next time you get in it. The battery checks good, there are new spark plugs, new spark plug wires, but still seems like fuel isn't getting to motor.
Just put new ignition in it, still not starting. The fuel pump cycles even with the key out of the ignition.
The fuel range shows low fuel even though the gauge shows full. I just put gas in it. The fuel range drops when driving and then after resetting, will go go back up to actual miles, but then drop to low fuel range again!
Help! This car only has 78,000 miles on it! Beautiful car, but won't run!
17th Oct 2008, 11:53
I have a 1995 Aurora, and I have taken my car to my mechanic at least 8 times in this year alone.
The existing problem I have is an oil leak that I have been dealing with, cause the motor has to be lifted out to repair the oil pan $900.
The car just started jerking when put in reverse, it now leaks power steering fluid,
Over this past Summer it started leaking anti-freeze. I had a new radiator put in, the leak continued, so I tried a new thermostat, it still leaked, finally a new water pump, which did the trick. The total price for all these repairs was close to $600.
Sometimes it won't start and the computer will read clean key, wait 3 minutes. That didn't work, so the dealer told me to turn the key back as if I were going to start it, and let it stay in that position for about 10 to 15 minutes, which worked, but it does it more frequently in the fall and winter months.
I've had my car for about almost 4 years, and paid cash for it; I wished I hadn't. Now my mechanic says the reason for the jerking when I put the car in reverse is I need new motor mounts. The only place that sells those is the dealer. The price is $$$$. The car is a nightmare.
17th Nov 2008, 19:00
I was the one who bought the 1995 Aurora for 350 bucks. Well, I'm now up to $3000 in repairs. Had the power steering pump replaced twice, rebuilt transmission (I think I got seriously scammed on that one) all same mechanic, that went BANKRUPT AFTER I GOT THE CAR BACK) ), and the transmission solenoid replaced. And I still my rack and pinion replaced. I love the car still, and will fix it until it runs like new. It's a big v8, and gas is cheap again- probably will be for at least a year. A car dealership (award winning for repairs, lol) wants 1200 for the rack job. Does this sound right? Anyone have this done on theirs?
4th Feb 2009, 17:03
I bought a pre-owned '95 Aurora in 1999. It has about 66k miles on it, as I only drive it once or twice a week. It is one of the best road cars I have owned.
I started have some problems with the car about a year ago. When backing out of the garage, the transmission would slam into gear with a loud bang. I took the car in for repair, but they couldn't diagnose the problem after spending 1 1/2 hours looking at the car. They were unable to pull the OBD1 error code or reset the SES light. I didn't want to spend anymore money with them so I picked up the car.
Since the PCM/ECU wasn't communicating with scanner tools, I decided to replace the ECU. I found one at a local auto salvage dealer for $75 and put it in. The replacement is easy. It is located behind the glove compartment. You don't have to take out the compartment. You remove the cover below the dash, unplug the red, blue, and white connectors, and slide it out of the holder. I swapped out the EPROM module on the one from the salvage yard with the one from my ECU. I did an "idle learn" by turning the ignition key on without starting for 20 seconds, for three times. Then start the car and put it in Drive with the brakes on. Run it until the temperature comes up and then turn on the air conditioning. The SES light went out and the car started shifting normally.
The transmission and everything else worked okay for about a year. Then the transmission started banging again. I took the car to a nationally known transmission repair company. They replaced the A and B solenoids and installed a bracket per a GM bulletin. The repair cost $353 but it didn't fix the problem. The scanner read a fault code of P076 Force Motor. They wanted another $2500 to remove and overhaul the transmission. I decided no, and picked up the car.
I remembered that I had met a friend of one of my relatives that had a transmission shop. I went to him and he pulled the code. It was a 76. He advised me that the problem was the electronic control solenoid that is accessible through the left side access panel, and that he would have to pull the transmission to fix it. I gave the okay, and suggested to replace any other parts that might fail in the future. He completed the repairs and advised me that the transmission was in excellent condition (it should be for the low mileage on the car), but the ECU must be bad. I paid the $1300 bill and picked up the car.
I went to an auto salvage yard and bought another computer and installed it. The car started running normally without any problems. That was 3 months ago.
This week I needed to use the car. While driving the car at a slow speed I heard a loud bang and steam rising from the front passenger side of the vehicle. Along with the steam was a strong burned smell. The air conditioning has failed. I will know more this week when I take the car in for service.