Suspension components: Idler arm, ball joints.
Engine: Engine idles rough when cold and/or warm.
Transmission: Harsh 1-2 shift. Sometimes has trouble shifting from 3-4.
AWD: Problem with transfer case causes car to shake real hard when backing up or turning.
I am very disappointed with this automobile. My experience with this Bravada has almost made me wonder if I should keep buying GM vehicles. I bought this vehicle after my previous truck, a 1996 Chevrolet Blazer, mysteriously caught fire while on my way to work.
I spent $18,000 for this Bravada and I have regretted the purchase of it every waking moment. The Blazer, Bravada, Jimmy SUVs have got to be the most unreliable vehicles GM has made recently.
This truck will be paid for in July and I look forward to trading it in. I am really surprised that a vehicle with 40,000 miles behaves and feels like a vehicle with 140,000 miles.
I Live in Colorado and purchased a 2001 Bravada used with 26k miles on it, it is now up over 58k miles. I have experienced the exact same problems that you have, with one exception, My Dealer had his act together :)
First, I have owned a Ford once, and several Dodge and Chrysler vehicles as well as Chevy. For my money I would buy Chevy/GM again. This Bravada has been great!
The problem you described with the transfer case shaking really hard in reverse is a known issue. I noticed it shortly after purchasing the vehicle. When I mentioned it to the Oldsmobile dealer in 2003 they took care of it free of charge. The problem is at the time of manufacture, the clutch disks had a coating on them that during use wore off and contaminated the transfer case fluid. The solution, the dealer drained the transfer case, filled it with GM Auto-Trak II fluid (GM PN 12378508), told me to bring it back after I had driven 300 miles, then they drained and refilled it again. It has been flawless ever since. (over 32k miles later)
Harsh shifting and no 3-4. I experienced this problem and it was the Ignition Switch! No kidding, the give away was on a couple occasions I was driving down the road and all the instrument cluster lights came on, then went off, exactly the same as when you first start the car. Eventually the Service Engine Soon light came on and the Dealer pulled DTC codes P0740, P0753, P0758, and P1860 from the computer, they told me the ignition switch was the problem. Since the vehicle was now out of warranty I purchased one from them for around $83.00 dollars and installed it myself. The transmission has been fine ever since. Now over 15k miles since the Ignition switch replacement. (FYI: I have also heard of contaminated transmission control bodies during manufacture that cause a similar problem.)
Rough Idle. This, in my case was due to too much TLC. I had the dealer replace the Fuel filter at 30k miles. Shortly there after (5k miles) I noticed rough idle. This culminated to very poor fuel economy (As indicated on the overhead computer) and eventually the Service Engine Soon light came on. The dealer pulled the codes from the computer and saw numerous "Misfire" conditions. They said this was due to "Bad Gas" getting by the fuel filter and fowling the fuel injectors. I said bull! They used their in-car fuel system cleaning procedure (Normally a $100 fee) to flush out the lines and injectors free of charge. At my request I also asked them to replace the fuel filter (At my cost for the second time) and to give me the old one. I cut the old filter open and there was a hole in this GM OEM filter element allowing contaminates to pass. I pointed this out to the dealer and they basically had no comment. I have put 28k miles on this vehicle since then with no further problems.
Last, but not least, suspension components. My Idler Arm just became so sloppy at 58K miles that I replaced it myself. The Cost for this part was $86.00. In all fairness, I have slammed into potholes so hard while driving this vehicle that I wondered at the time what damage I just did. Also the Idler Arm grease fittings have not seen my grease gun for over 32k miles, due to the fact that it is impossible to see these fittings unless you drop the plastic suspension shield, and I completely overlooked them. I would venture a bet that most fast-lubes miss these also. As for Ball Joints, I noticed a popping in mine at around 34k miles, the dealer asked me when did you last lubricate them? I responded about 8k miles ago, they politely told me to RTFM (Read the Owners Manual) and lubricate them at every oil change, or 3000 miles. The dealer then lubricated them free of charge. Although they have been fine since then, I have to wonder from reading other posts, if GM has place inadequate (Geo Metro?) ball joints on a SUV, and they will fail soon. Now that I am keeping up proper lubrication, only time will tell.
I have a 2000 Bravada and it is stuck in 4 wheel drive all the time, there are no indicator lights to let you know. Looks like I will Have to sink more money into this lemon, I'v had all the problems listed above and even had a fuel pump replaced, I'v only got 88,000 on this SUV.
My Bravada is also stuck in 4wd. I've brought it to 2 mechanics who don't know how to fix it. Does anybody have any insight on this?
If your transfer case is shot (ie stuck in 4wd all the time and its not the electronic switch stuck) then you may want to consider removing the front drive shaft from the transfer case to the front diff. this will make a 2wd vehical, but it may be a better option then spending 2-3k on a new case.
I have also had all of the same problems with my 2000 Oldmobile Bravada and am very disappointed with it. I recently had the transfer case changed out (which only cost about 1500...sarcasm), ball joints (upper and lower), heater core, same type of fuel problems leading to the supposed bad gas, and now I have this clicking like the dad gum turn signal is on all of the time. I changed out the relay and still get it all of the time. I am just to the point where I want to get rid of it or blow it up... Thanks GM for the quality vehicle that you produced.
I have all of the above problems. my ball joints idler arm, the whole suspension systems off. I get that turn signal click all the time. my wheel still shakes even after having more than half the suspension replaced including new tires. that car is anightmare. the heat goes in and out. I hear a popping noise when I make sharp turns it skips bad. horrible car. I wish there was a recall on that defected car it really sucks.
We also have a 2000 Bravada and with minimal maint we have over 90K mile on it, I fixed the rough idle by cleaning the throttle body, the shake in the transfer case was fixed by the dealer changing the transfer case fluid, the ball joints were just replaced at 90K and we didn't know they were bad till we got new tires and tried to get it aligned. I am replacing the idler arm now and really haven't noticed it being sloppy, but the alignment guy said it was a little worn. We have not experienced any of the other problems listed. The Bravada is an all wheel drive vehichle it is always in 4wd. Overall it has been a very dependable car that I use to tow my boat with and my wife would not let me get rid of it if I wanted!
I have had my share of problems. Don't care for GM much after this 2000 bravada. My BIGGEST complaint is the front door hinge pins. The doors are sooo heavy they start sagging and after a while your latches don't line up. Had mine done at 40k and now are needing it again at 72k. What a joke-$250/300 for the set of front doors.
I have been through the jerky reverse driving (fixed with case change oil), lukewarm heater (fixed with a new thermostat, & coolant flush & heater core reverse flush) Blower motor noisy (fixed under warranty), ball joints went out 60k, wheel hub also went out same time, and the relay clicking like the turn signal was on all the time was a special treat (steering column switch if I remember right).
However, it is a fun car to drive. I like it because I never have to switch 4 wheel drive on; its instant when I need it. Smart track! Good for the wife.
I have had all of the same issues mentioned above. Mine is now at 180,000 plus miles, I'm not sure how much longer it will last. For the most part I've replaced all of these problems and have not yet taken the time to replace the door pins. However, both front doors need it badly. The only thing that was not mentioned above is that the back door wind shield wiper has now gone too. Yes, it is possible to drive the SUV until 200,000 plus miles but I'm not sure that I will be one of them. If I had to do it over, I would have not bought the SUV.
I have a 1997 Olds Bravada that is just now sitting at 162,000 @ 120,000 miles, and from what I gather, well taken care of.
The engine : from what one mechanic stated' was rebuilt?, the windshield wipers, back wiper, heater (only when it wants to?) cruise control, front drive shaft/ (so called smart trek. LOL...)
I replaced the alternator, front end,thermostat, had the heater core flushed once before, etc, does not work. etc.
Cannot hurt but to ask, does anyone have any advice as to how to fix @ least the heat and the wipers before either I or this car meets with a timely/ untimely fate? :) Besides buying a new car right now.. LOL.?
Thanks!
'99 Bravada 180,000 plus, Bought new and replaced:
Rear wiper
Idler arm
Alternator
Idler wheel on drive belt
Fuel pump
Door pins
Hot/cold door in heater core
Many front bearings
Turn signal clicks
Clicks on right turns
Plugs 2X
Cap, rotor and wires 2X
Transfer case now non issue after several fluid changes
But, looks and runs like new car. Interior impeccable as well as not a spot of rust.
Other than the fuel pump (dealer) and front bearings (myself), I can't complain for 180,000 safe, non-slip driving.
Original exhaust and Bose still sounds great!
I also own a 2000 Bravada. I have replaced the upper and lower ball joints twice, and have had to replace the hubs three times.
The heater core went and now I drive it without heat. Dealer told me it would cost nearly 700 to fix it. Guess I''ll be cold this winter.
But the problem I cannot figure out is what is the noise I keep hearing when I pull forward or reverse, it sounds and feels like a dull metal thump, like the frame is broke and it's popping in and out of place. Can anyone help me here? I was under the impression that smart track was to put you in and out of four wheel drive when you needed it, but some claim that I am always in 4 x 4, if so then why the transfer case?
Eric Cramer in Bradford Pa.
Ditto Eric's comments. Smart Track is supposed to be 2WD until there is a demand for 4WD, at which time, 4WD kicks in. My 2000 Bravada has not done this for the last 20,000 miles and slow speed turns (either forward or reverse) are very jumpy and jerky telling me the 4WD is engaged but the differential action is not happening.
I have a 2000 Bravada Smart Trak. The 4 wheel drive has not worked since I have owned the car. Today I put all 4 wheels in the air, and placed the car in drive. All 4 of the wheels turned like they were supposed too. I don't know why it won't work when I need it. I would be interested in any advice you may have.
Jim.
I own a 2000 Bravada with 57,000 miles on it (it was pre-owned).
About three months ago there was a little pop under the hood and the car died in the middle of an intersection. Right before it died, all of the gauges went crazy, then nothing. It wouldn't start. Had it towed to the service station and they said it was the fuel pump. Replaced the fuel pump and fuel filter, and one month later the Service Engine light came on and a few miles later, DEAD again. I had it towed again and was told it was the fuel pump (again). It was replaced at no cost to me.
About three weeks after that the vehicle started over heating on short (four mile drives), it was the radiator.
Yesterday, less than one month later, the car died in the middle of a busy intersection, I'm thinking it is the fuel pump again because when I put my foot on the gas there was nothing, no power, nothing, then it died but no warning lights came on. Also, I don't have any heat.
Does anyone know what's going on? I was thinking of taking it to the dealer but I have so much money invested at my service station and I think they should replace the fuel pump again. I'm scared silly to drive it because there is no warning when it dies.
Two days ago I spent $800.00 for new tires so I really hate to sell it, plus, aside from these last three months (I've had it for four years), I've had no problems and I do love the vehicle, it has all the bells and whistles on it and it handles great in all kinds of weather and it's in beautiful condition. Can anyone help this lady in distress?