I have a 2000 Bravada 140,000 miles, bought new by my mother, daily driver till she got her Suburban 4 years ago.
Currently Smart Track won't engage, it tries to, but never works for more than half a second...
Also last year my rear suspension was sagging, and the car's overall ride was very rocky and felt unsafe. Since I brought it back out for the coming winter, I haven't noticed the rear sagging, but it is still very rocky.
Anybody got any ideas?
This car was a complete nightmare when I went to college. As soon as I inherited this SUV, I spent probably close to $10,000 in repairs and tows in the last 3 years. The transmission went at about 118,000. This I had to buy rebuilt and with a warranty, which ran me over $3500. The rest I replaced the distributor, distributor cap, radiator, axle x4. Rotors, fuel pump (2x in a year and a half), door hinge, windshield wipers every year, tires every year, CBG valve, gas cap x2... I'm sure the list goes on. I stopped keeping track.
The crazy thing is that the interior and exterior look beautiful! No rust at all! GM needs to step it up. I just traded this thing in and the dealership told me that the $900 they gave me towards my new car (Hyundai Sonata) was a gift. They told me they could not believe that I was driving this vehicle because it was unsafe. They said that I was lucky the axle didn't completely break on me for the fifth time because it has that same problem again. Also, the computer went. What a nightmare!
I would never recommend this vehicle... it's no wonder they don't make them anymore. It is very unsafe, and unless you have a lot of money -- you'll never be able to afford the maintenance.
I own a 2000 Oldsmobile Bravada, I have replaced the fuel pump twice within six months. Four months later (today) my truck shut off on me at an intersection, when attempting to start it nothing happen just continuously turns over. At one point, it did start but when I pressed the gas paddle it cut off. I'm not sure if it's the timing or it's the fuel pump again, however, I do have a "Check Engine" light on.
If anyone have experienced this or a similar occurrence, please share with me your remedy for a solution.
I own this truck as well. My car takes a long time to start. It used to stall on hot days. I think your problem might be a cheap part, and there was no test for it. It is called the crankshaft sensor. There is a big story online about this part causing people to waste time and money on tune ups, ignition mods, cam sensors etc. I put money on it being the crk sensor, so easy to put in. Good luck. Does the fuel pump whine sounds like mine? It is failing, but won't die, and I don't change fuel pumps if they still work.
Are you serious? You think you can just fill the tank and change the oil on a car or truck without replacing parts? Then don't buy a car, ride a bike and hope that don't break. Even shoes wear out.
I recently purchased the lovely Bravada, 180,000 miles, still goes straight down the road. Kinda upset on the speed limiter at about 100mph. What wires to cut and splice to cut that off? How fast will this tank go? Anyone really know?
What about slipping in a Chevy 350 under the hood? They are good for a million miles, but will it fit just like they do on the S-10's, or are the mounts different?
I have owned my 2000 Bravada for few years now.
I did common repairs like fuel pump, all ball joints, door pins. I've got the "jumping" front end now. Feels like my Wrangler when it's in 4 wheel drive. Does draining transfer case fluid and flushing it really fix this? I thought it was the cv shafts, but when I changed all 4 ball joints last night the shafts felt fine.
Please if anyone has info let me know. I love this truck and want to fix this issue.
I have had my 2000 Bravada stop at a light and do the same thing. Are you sure it's the crank sensor runs lean with multiple misfires on the code?
My 2000 Olds Bravada has given me a bit of grief too - I had to replace heater core, transmission, idler and pitman arms, and now the front differential (driver side).
I still love it, especially the heated seats here in Central NY. Will try pulling the 4WD fuse to eliminate the "stuck in AWD" action. I can always put it back in the winter.
Sounds like the fuel regulator. My 94 S10 Blazer did that, and it was the fuel pressure regulator and the EGR valve was getting plugged with carbon. Replaced the EGR gasket with one that had wire mesh covering the hole. This fixed the surging problem.
I have a 2000 Oldsmobile Bravada. The differential went out. I couldn't find a used one. The guy rebuilt it and it seems to work okay, but the trail arm bushing is missing on the passenger's side. Where can I find one?
You mentioned that you changed the ball joints on your Bravada yourself and my husband was wondering how difficult a task this is to do.
I have a 2000 Bravada and have been advised that we need to replace the upper and lower ball joints at a cost of around $1100 ($500 for parts & $600 labor).
Thank you in advance for your help regarding this matter.
I have a 2000 Bravada with 150k miles. Had a ton of stuff done to it over the years.
It's been a great vehicle, but recently it stalled on me. Stayed back up, hit the gas, then it stalled again. Battery was drained so I replaced that and had my alternator tested. Now that I have power, which I did not due to a dead battery, it won't start. It tries to turn over, but to no avail. Any ideas what it could be and how much it would cost?
Add another comment
Note: A Comments RSS Feed is available. New comments appear in the Members Area before the main site
Copyright 1997 - 2013 CSDO Media Limited Advertise on this site