Have you considered replacing the ignition switch?
Rather then replace your doors because of worn pins, go to the parts store and get a pin and bushing set for about $5.00 per door. They also have a spring compressor to remove the spring.
If they're worn into the hinge itself, have them spot welded and redrilled.
Most cooling systems problems are due to the GM DEX-COOL Antifreeze. They claim it's good for 50,000 miles. "NOT". If you look in your radiator most of you will find that it has turned to a rusty colored mud. Quick fix - drain flush every 2 years.
Whoever sent in about the transfer case fluid, THANK YOU.
I was going to take a look at that this weekend.
I changed the Auto Track II transfer case oil in my 2000 Bravada and could tell a big difference within the first mile.
I thank you again for letting me know about this quick fix and saving me about $800.00.
I have done a decent amount of work to my friend's 97 Bravada over the past 2 years, as it's had every problem listed here and then some (thanks for being a good trouble shooting source) - the latest issue is the ridiculous rolling idle issue. The vehicle gets around 11-14 miles to the gallon - has a rolling idle and can't seem to climb a hill on the highway at anywhere over 50mph. His check engine OB2 codes read out bad O2 sensors like they always have, but it seems like a bigger issue - MAF maybe fuel pump whines a little? Any advice would be great. Thanks again.
Just replaced transmission... $2200.00 at 120,000 miles, multiple transfer case fluid changes previous, new front end at 90,000, fuel vapor sensor failure... black tape over check engine light; cheaper than dropping entire gas tank to replace.
Should have known better, but got good deal at time, glad they stopped making this one, and it seems all of GM and rest of car manufacturers are going to the woodshed.
I have a 2000 Bravada with 242000 on it. No major problems, it's been a great truck.
Hello Bravada drivers, I have been having some problems with my 2000 Bravada. I have changed the radiator, fuel pump, thermostat, gas filter, idler pulley and belt, the hinges on the doors are bad and the door drops down (very heavy).
I have a A/C leak so no A/C in the summer in TX, and heat does not work either.
A mechanic told me about the (gear fluid)? which needs to be changed as well. Also has any one heard of a door blend? To shut off the cool air so I can get some HEAT?
Thanks for the advice on the door pins.
I love my 2002 Bravada, but I am starting to experience a lot of the problems from above.
We were having electrical problems until I recently changed the battery, because the previous owner put one in that was too small for the vehicle. Also started noticing "crow hop" in the front end, due to the transfer case shift module.
I started doing some research, and have found that there is supposed to be power to the front axle all the time, but the transfer case shift module may be jammed causing the transfer case to apply maximum torque to the front axle all of the time. GM wants $980 CAN for a new encoder motor. That's a bit ridiculous I think.
My girlfriend's 2000 Bravada takes a beating on the pathetic roads of northern New Hampshire. She needs 4 ball joints and has experienced the noises that are consistent with transfer case problems. She had changed the fluid 2 years ago and it did help, but her mechanic is advising a rebuilt unit and an installed cost of $700.00. The Bravada has 200,000 miles on it. The body is mint and everything else seems good. Should we get the transfer case, and should we get off shore ball joints or Moog?
Any comments would be appreciated.
I have a 2000 Olds Bravada that I bought in December 2007 with 95,000 miles, and frankly it has been horrible. It now has 122,00 miles, and I have had many of the problems stated above.
Clicker sound.
Heater basically has 2 settings: 95 degrees or 50 degrees (nothing in between).
Smart trak was suppose to engage 4 wheel drive when needed, it never happened and I had to replace the AWD drive motor and was told by the mechanic it is in AWD all the time.
The front doors do not stay open on their own.
The Service Engine Soon light came on a week after I bought it, drove it until I needed an inspection and was told I couldn't get a new inspection sticker until I fixed the Service Engine soon light, paid $400 for an Air Pollution Pump, Service Engine Soon light came on again.. paid another $300 to have the gas line replaced and a short in the electrical wires, and Service Engine soon is on again.. what now??
I do believe the car has electrical issues, I've tried to hook my boat trailer to the Bravada but the trailer lights will not work. That's what I get for buying a GM.. never again.
We too have had nothing but problems since we bought the truck new. It now has 100,000 k on it.
We've been through 2 sets of front bearings, 1 rebuilt transmission ($2,500), many flushes of the transfer case, and 1 re-shimming of the clutch pack. The rear differential case was completely rebuilt ($2,400). Now (2009), we have a very high frequency vibration at 50 mph. Balanced drive shaft; no change. Somehow, this is related to the last flushing of the transfer case, and checkout of the encoder motor.
I have only highlighted the more serious problems; there were many more. We have never had issues with the A/C, heater or electrical problems like many others.
This is the worst vehicle we have ever owned. It is no wonder that GM is going down the tubes.
Disappointed in Ohio.
<<The Service Engine Soon light came on a week after I bought it, drove it until I needed an inspection and was told I couldn't get a new inspection sticker until I fixed the Service Engine soon light,>>
Sounds like the person you bought the truck from had the codes cleared just before he sold it to you.
It can take a few days to a week of driving before the codes reappear.
I have a 2000 Oldsmobile Bravada. Sometimes when I go to turn the car off, the key gets locked in the ignition. Sometimes waiting will unlock the key. other times I have to make sure it's in park, and cut the steering wheel in one direction or the other while turning the key. If this doesn't work I have to turn the key back and forth, or sometimes turn the car on and drive around to different parking spaces until it wants to release my key. Sometimes just starting the car and turning it back off works as well. I like the vehicle, But I'm getting tired of getting locked in my own car.
I have owned my 2000 Bravada for almost 4 years. Paid 12 thousand for it. Very nice. I loved it until it left me sitting. Replaced transmission. then starter. All wheel drive works, but I keep it unplugged because when plugged up there is a loud popping noise in the wheel when you turn to the right. goes away when unplugged. Also, now the transmission seems to be going out. Hope I make it home today. Barely got it to back into a parking place here at work. When I was driving to work, the engine would rev up like I took it out of gear only I didn't. Any ideas? Please help.
Wow, I have had my 2000 Bravada for 7 years and put 100,000 miles on it, much of it pulling a 5 x 8 trailer on the highway and through the mountains. It has been great - yes I had to replace the transmission, but pulling the trailer I really abused the poor beast - I now have a transmission cooler. I do have the front end shutter right now and changed the fluid a week ago and will change it again this weekend. Last time I did the double change was 30,000 miles ago and it just started the shutter again. I liked it so much I just bought another one.