7th Jan 2009, 16:51
I have a 2000 Bravada with 242000 on it. No major problems, it's been a great truck.
16th Jan 2009, 11:29
Hello Bravada drivers, I have been having some problems with my 2000 Bravada. I have changed the radiator, fuel pump, thermostat, gas filter, idler pulley and belt, the hinges on the doors are bad and the door drops down (very heavy).
I have a A/C leak so no A/C in the summer in TX, and heat does not work either.
A mechanic told me about the (gear fluid)? which needs to be changed as well. Also has any one heard of a door blend? To shut off the cool air so I can get some HEAT?
Thanks for the advice on the door pins.
29th Jan 2009, 14:15
I love my 2002 Bravada, but I am starting to experience a lot of the problems from above.
We were having electrical problems until I recently changed the battery, because the previous owner put one in that was too small for the vehicle. Also started noticing "crow hop" in the front end, due to the transfer case shift module.
I started doing some research, and have found that there is supposed to be power to the front axle all the time, but the transfer case shift module may be jammed causing the transfer case to apply maximum torque to the front axle all of the time. GM wants $980 CAN for a new encoder motor. That's a bit ridiculous I think.
27th Feb 2009, 12:28
My girlfriend's 2000 Bravada takes a beating on the pathetic roads of northern New Hampshire. She needs 4 ball joints and has experienced the noises that are consistent with transfer case problems. She had changed the fluid 2 years ago and it did help, but her mechanic is advising a rebuilt unit and an installed cost of $700.00. The Bravada has 200,000 miles on it. The body is mint and everything else seems good. Should we get the transfer case, and should we get off shore ball joints or Moog?
Any comments would be appreciated.
7th Apr 2009, 21:36
I have a 2000 Olds Bravada that I bought in December 2007 with 95,000 miles, and frankly it has been horrible. It now has 122,00 miles, and I have had many of the problems stated above.
Heater basically has 2 settings: 95 degrees or 50 degrees (nothing in between).
Smart trak was suppose to engage 4 wheel drive when needed, it never happened and I had to replace the AWD drive motor and was told by the mechanic it is in AWD all the time.
The front doors do not stay open on their own.
The Service Engine Soon light came on a week after I bought it, drove it until I needed an inspection and was told I couldn't get a new inspection sticker until I fixed the Service Engine soon light, paid $400 for an Air Pollution Pump, Service Engine Soon light came on again.. paid another $300 to have the gas line replaced and a short in the electrical wires, and Service Engine soon is on again.. what now??
I do believe the car has electrical issues, I've tried to hook my boat trailer to the Bravada but the trailer lights will not work. That's what I get for buying a GM.. never again.
30th May 2009, 05:27
We too have had nothing but problems since we bought the truck new. It now has 100,000 k on it.
We've been through 2 sets of front bearings, 1 rebuilt transmission ($2,500), many flushes of the transfer case, and 1 re-shimming of the clutch pack. The rear differential case was completely rebuilt ($2,400). Now (2009), we have a very high frequency vibration at 50 mph. Balanced drive shaft; no change. Somehow, this is related to the last flushing of the transfer case, and checkout of the encoder motor.
I have only highlighted the more serious problems; there were many more. We have never had issues with the A/C, heater or electrical problems like many others.
This is the worst vehicle we have ever owned. It is no wonder that GM is going down the tubes.
Disappointed in Ohio.
8th Jun 2009, 22:23
<<The Service Engine Soon light came on a week after I bought it, drove it until I needed an inspection and was told I couldn't get a new inspection sticker until I fixed the Service Engine soon light,>>
Sounds like the person you bought the truck from had the codes cleared just before he sold it to you.
It can take a few days to a week of driving before the codes reappear.
11th Jun 2009, 00:25
I have a 2000 Oldsmobile Bravada. Sometimes when I go to turn the car off, the key gets locked in the ignition. Sometimes waiting will unlock the key. other times I have to make sure it's in park, and cut the steering wheel in one direction or the other while turning the key. If this doesn't work I have to turn the key back and forth, or sometimes turn the car on and drive around to different parking spaces until it wants to release my key. Sometimes just starting the car and turning it back off works as well. I like the vehicle, But I'm getting tired of getting locked in my own car.
30th Jun 2009, 10:04
I have owned my 2000 Bravada for almost 4 years. Paid 12 thousand for it. Very nice. I loved it until it left me sitting. Replaced transmission. then starter. All wheel drive works, but I keep it unplugged because when plugged up there is a loud popping noise in the wheel when you turn to the right. goes away when unplugged. Also, now the transmission seems to be going out. Hope I make it home today. Barely got it to back into a parking place here at work. When I was driving to work, the engine would rev up like I took it out of gear only I didn't. Any ideas? Please help.
28th Jul 2009, 20:50
Wow, I have had my 2000 Bravada for 7 years and put 100,000 miles on it, much of it pulling a 5 x 8 trailer on the highway and through the mountains. It has been great - yes I had to replace the transmission, but pulling the trailer I really abused the poor beast - I now have a transmission cooler. I do have the front end shutter right now and changed the fluid a week ago and will change it again this weekend. Last time I did the double change was 30,000 miles ago and it just started the shutter again. I liked it so much I just bought another one.
17th Sep 2009, 21:53
I own a 2000 Bravada. Decent vehicle so far. I work at a GM dealership, so I know about all the problems these have. Watch out for the sun shell, which is part of the transmission. These will go out, people don't diagnose it right, and you end up getting a whole new transmission. If you're a do it yourself kind of person, buy 6 quarts of auto trak II, flush the transfer case, refill it. Drive it for at least 5 miles of normal driving and sharp turns 5 mph or less. Then flush the transfer case again, refill and drive it. Check the fluid often. Check the fluid in your differentials often and top off with GM recommended fluids. All of this is preventative maintenance and really does help.
Fuel pumps are a known problem with all Bravada/Jimmy/Blazers. If it does go out, replace it with a GM one. If you go to a parts store and get one of course it will go out again. You get what you pay for.
These vehicles are leakers of everything, so I can't stress enough checking the fluids yourself and greasing everything yourself. Quick oil change places just stick the grease gun up there and pull the lever. They don't care if it's actually getting into the fittings. This will probably save you from ball joints and pitman arms.
Overall a good vehicle as long as you maintain it properly, and I would recommend one to anyone.