I've seen many of the above mentioned issues. In addition I've replaced every component of the cooling system (radiator, thermostat, water pump, etc.) and am still having issues with overheating. Front brakes and rotors are a yearly expense and front wheel bearings are running about every 1 1/2 years. Ready to send it to the junkyard because I'm tired of these repeat problems. I only average about 8K - 9K mileage per year and it is way too much maintenance.
Well I have read all the comments.. but thank god I I haven't had half of the problems others have stated..
I do have a green 99 model.. the only thing that had to be fixed majorly was a gas leak on the motor..
I have replaced my brakes twice, but I have a life time warranty, and my father owns a shop.. so I don't have to worry about half of the expenses...
I don't have trouble with the oil burning.
I really like my car, and it is very very dependable.. but yes I have had the problem with the windows... but I mainly use my AC or heat, so it's nothing on that...
I am happy with my car, and I pray and hope that I don't start having the problems you guys or gals have had... good luck with your cars!!! Drive safely!!!
Well, let's start with the fact that I've had this car only two days so far... Paid under $1000 out the door with 115k miles. I knew there were a few minor issues going in, but for the price I was happy to take on these few things.
1) Terrible radio reception, keys didn't work in the door locks (no remote either), turn signals seem to work only when they feel like it, of course the typical rust hole near the gas door (I've seen about a million Cutlasses and Malibus with the same problem), and a blown speaker (no big deal).
1) Antenna intermediate connector was mistakenly placed by the factory as to where it's easily disconnected by a passenger's feet. Pull up the carpet, reconnect, tape up higher to avoid contact.
2) Took the door panels off to find lock arms disconnected... Apparently they are held to the lock with a cheap plastic clip. Reconnected, zip tied and now it's fine...
3) Turn signal problem is actually covered by GM, and they will replace free of charge at any local GM dealer.
4) Clearly a blown speaker isn't a big deal.
5) And finally the rust hole, there is clearly nothing that can be done simply and cheaply. If you're gonna use recycled steel, that is definitely one spot that you just can't get away with it. Thanks GM.
I've also found that the check engine light comes and goes at will for no apparent reason at all. It's baffling, but what can I say... Just hope it feels like being off when I need to get e-checked.. I have also noticed that the engine does seem to run hotter than it probably should, but nothing completely out of the ordinary. Also, as a lot of people have mentioned, 1 and 2 do not work on the fans, no big deal, I'm fine with 3 or higher..
Anyways, all in all the quality of American cars is not what it should be anymore. We all know that. These modern American cars are made to meticulously fall apart little by little, and last maybe 150-200k miles under the best circumstances. And even though we all know it, they won't admit it, but it's done on purpose for the sake of job security. Do you think they really wanna put themselves out of work by making something that's gonna last you 20+ years? Of course not... It's the new American way of life. "Don't work yourself out of work".
Don't get me wrong, I'm proud to own an American made car, I only wish the automotive companies were as proud to be making them...
All in all, like I said I paid under $1000, how can I not go wrong? (famous last words) I'll also end up getting $3-400 to scrap it at the end of this endeavor... So for a net cost of $6-700, if I get a year out of it without any serious issues, I'll be happy. Anything after that is a bonus for me.
I own a 1999 Olds Cutlass, and have had a few of the issues I have read about.
I have replaced the rear intake gasket already, and it seems to work fine now.
Have replaced the thermostat when all the antifreeze ran out and the car got hot, but it seems OK after the repair.
The ABS light comes on when it rains or when the temps outside are on the cold side of 70 degrees; funny how that happens.
Windows are working fine at the moment, and I sure hope they continue for my major problem that has my mind working; the AC. The AC will work great for about a week, and then it begins to blow hot air, and when taken to the shop, it is only 1/2 lb low on freon. The compressor is working, but it seems to have a leak somewhere; but after being in the shop 3 times, the leak has yet to be found. Anyone else come across this problem?? Would love to know where the leak is most common found on this car, and perhaps fix it to where it's not an issue. Any help is appreciated.
I have had a 99 Cutlass for a couple years and have almost none of these problems.
I just changed the front end shocks today, and I change the oil every month, as well as replenish the fluids every month. I drive around 3K a month as well.
The A/C is kind of messed up, but only because it cuts so much gas from the tank. The fuel gauge doesn't work.
The only thing that makes me really angry is that the theft system does turn off and on at will and occasionally it won't allow you to start the car. You have to wait 10 minutes to leave! That part sucks, but overall I feel like I have a completely different car than everyone else...
Mine has been lucky! Hope it stays that way.
I bought my 99 Oldsmobile Cutlass at 143,000 and now I'm still driving it with 178,000. I've pushed this car to the limits and it's still holding on!
I pop the hood daily and work on it to keep the car maintained. It helps to put expensive antifreeze/coolant in the radiator for the overheating issue. Also ZMAX or seafoam will help this engine last a lot longer.
Take good care of the car and it will last.
If anyone here is willing to fix the car yourself, I have information regarding the heater/AC controls not working properly.
I replaced the heater/AC control face plate to see if that would fix the problem of the heater and AC not working in the 1 and 2 positions. It did not fix it. Although it made the A/C stop blinking on and off.
I did some more research, and I found this thread: http://www.justanswer.com/chevy/18m1d-1998-olds-cutlass-problem-air.html
This guy recommends replacing a resistor that's next to the fan that blows the air for your heating and cooling system. Today I pulled that resistor out and it was pretty damaged looking. It's basically a small circuit board that comes out with 2 screws. It's very simple to remove. I ordered an new one on eBay for $30. I'll let you know if this permanently fixes the issue with the problem or not.
BTW, I just had the A/C recharged and it didn't blow out any cool air, so I'm not sure if there is a leak in the system or not.
My windows have been broken pretty bad a few times. This is actually a pretty easy car to hot-wire. It's important that the anti-theft system works pretty good.
I bought my 99 Cutlass Memorial Day weekend 2013 with 210,xxx, and so far I've only had a major vacuum leak, but got it fixed, & then the water draining out.
Now with 213,xxx, it only has a misfire in the #3 cylinder, but it doesn't really affect me. I haven't had most of the problems that people have had... (knock on the wood trim on the dash).
ABS light comes on when I hit a hard bump, but I live on rough roads, so I really don't care. I'm 15 & I drive it everyday, and I gotta say the 3000 miles I've put on it have been the best miles I've driven. I love this quality GM piece of crap.