Comments: 1-15, 16-30, 31-45, 46-60, 61-75, 76-90, 91-100
I own a 2000 Intrigue and I am experiencing the same problems as other owners. I have my car in the shop now as I write this trying to find out why it’s overheating. I replaced the thermostat, had the coolant system flushed, changed the oil thinking they would find any evidence of coolant in it which would mean a serious problem, but nothing. I’m beginning to believe it may have something to do with the intake manifold that I’m reading about, but I hope not because that’s an expensive job. I’m having them look at the water pump and I might have it replaced. I too am experiencing the flickering of the headlights and my turn signals work when they want to. I have the leak problem also!! Anyone looking for a 2000 Intrigue real cheap?
I bought a used 99 Oldsmobile Intrigue a few months ago. 91000 miles on it now. Almost immediately I had the turn signal issue. The sockets short out commonly on this vehicle. Replaced the socket and it is fine so far. I had the low coolant issue. Used some stop leak and that worked. Had some die at the red lights issues. Used some gas treatment and that worked. (also stopped getting cheap gas at mini-marts) Also seem to have high oil consumption. Used some oil treatment, we shall see if I get lucky there too. Today I had the battery/alternator issue. Here is something good to know, the voltage regulator tells the alternator when to stop charging the battery. If it is cutting out at too low of a voltage, you get a battery light and eventually the lights go dim and the car dies. When you have the alternator tested (for free at an auto parts store), they will tell you that the alternator is good, but the battery is bad. You change the battery and the battery light still comes on. The voltage regulator is built into the alternator on most newer vehicles. I am about to go change my alternator. Wish me luck!! I am an aircraft mechanic, I'm attempting cars now!
My son owns a 98 intrigue. Had transmission rebuilt at 70k. He had the check engine light on along with Track Off and Anti lock light off all at the same time when driving in rain.
Lights went out on long trip after it stopped raining. Stayed
out for a couple days and came back on in the next rain day
and long trip. All mentioned lights are on.
The shop said there were no engine or tranny fault codes.
It only had left wheel sensor over speed. All sensors were
checked for moisture and were properly lubed with the right
connector grease etc. They reset computer etc. We picked it
up and didn't get out of the driveway with it.
The tranny is shifting fine and there are no problems on
the highway at cruise speeds etc.
Has anyone had a problem like this? If so, please let us
know. If no one has had a problem like this, how about
a Olds technician or chief mechanic who would give us
ideas on what to do.
My son is a disabled vet and Dad could check some things
out as I'm a retired aircraft tech/mgr with some troubleshooting experience. thx,
I have a 2001 Intrigue. I bought the car new for its looks and comfort. Big problems, almost immediately. Grinding noise in the front driver's side. Dealer said this was "normal" ABS self-check sound. Later, I experienced rattling noise and looseness in brakes and steering. So far, the dealer has replaced my front tie rods three times and the intermediate steering shaft/gear? twice. They resurfaced my brakes when the car only had 20,000 miles on it! A bad battery cable burned up three baterries until they found the problem. Light flicker.
What a gem of a car! Now the car has 80,000 miles on it. I want to pass it on to my 16 year old daughter, but I am not sure if the car is safe enough. I plan on having the hub assmeblies replaced-when I get the money. A ex-GM certified technician that manages a Speed Lube told me he can tell by looking at the car, that the hub assemblies are bad. Of course, the dealer never has and never will admit to this.
Anyone else having the hub aseembly problems?
I have a 2000 Intrigue. The rack and pinion steering shaft has some problem with the bearings and I was told by GM my car is to old so they will not fix the problem and I have to pay $1,200 to fix myself. It is in the shop now and service guy at the dealer said my turn signals are shot $495 to fix because of bad installation of system. I have no hot air blowing and this too is due too bad installation as the service guy stated...another $400+ job. How come we the consumers pay for bad installation jobs that was done at the factory when the car was built. My car warranty ran out years ago. Help me GM.
I have a 1998 Oldsmobile Intrigue. I had the same problem with the turn signals. I read in another Forum were if you ground the turn signal wire directly to the car it would stop burning out the bulbs. It worked like a champ. I haven't had to replace a bulb since.
Now I have the overheating problem and have blown antifreeze all over creation. I'm replacing the water pump and am hoping all of the other posts are incorrect about cracked manifolds being a problem.
I have a 2000 Olds Intrigue and have had lights flicker, it started when it got cold now I have a problem with my car wanting to overheat. I have put a thermostat in it and when I have my heat on the 2nd notch it will go up to 3/4 or higher, but when I turn it down then it goes back to the 1/2 mark, but I have heat and the fan works good so I was wondering if any one had any solutions on why that does that and what to do to fix it.
I just purchased this car 1 month ago. I am already having temperature problems. The gauge varies dramatically. It goes very hot to mid-range quickly. Stopping at red light should make temperature go up, but, actually makes temp go down. Also, am having knocks that I can hear and also feel in the gas pedal. I love the ride and look of this car. What a shame.
I have a 2000 3.5L and have the overheating issue. Its at a specialty shop right now and they think its the thermostat sticking, which is really what it seems like, but I just replaced it so unless I got a bad (new) one I really do not think that's it.
I think I will be getting rid of this vehicle before I can't.
Email me if you know the reason for the overheating.
Atoyota4x4@hotmail.com.
I just learned from 2 different people without hesitation that is is a blown head gasket. After research on internet and with auto parts stores that gasket WILL affect temperature. I have not tried this fix yet, but, find it could be pricey.. please check around and give feedback..
You may need to look if a hose/rad is plugged. This system has no rad cap like VW, they only have access on surge tank, and they have the exact same problems. I own 4 VW diesels and too have had such problems. Both had plugged rads. Water flow was cut down so much that it was unable to cool properly. Easy way to check is the tank feeding from the Eng will be very hot, I know duh, now be very careful, but now check the opposit tank, if it is more or less stone cold then bingo bang go. you have a plugged rad. Very unusual to find the pump weak. Blown head gasket normally give you the opposit problem. You can't build heat. Now also before taking a head off I would do this first. If the rad looks good. Empty system and take ALL hoses off and see how water flows through. For the heater core, now you should not have a big over heating problem with it plugged, but any way, use a water hose and run water though it. For newbies don't take the dang thing out! Lot's of work. just with hoses off put water hose at pipe coming out of fire wall and flow should only be just a tick slower coming back out. Oh also the hose coming off surge tank, that is the important one. Look carefully at that one if plugged up will show a full surge tank but a very low rad.I hope that helps you all.
Car shows no signs of blown head gasket. This was confirmed by specialty shop and dealer. Dealer could not get it to overheat. Since then, it has not overheated. Very strange. Only thing I can relate it not overheating anymore to is that it has warmed up outside recently, and I ran it on the way to the dealer that morning with the radiator reservoir cap loose. Some fluid come out, but it was not able to build pressure. Maybe there was still an air pocket in the system and it blew it out of the system. I don't know.
Atoyota4x4.
This doesn't make any sense. If It get warmer out you should over heat FASTER. With cap loose and fluid coming out could very well mean the system is getting pressurized and that more often then not means a head and or head gasket. But this talk of a head or head gasket is also out of wack cuz you DO NOT OVERHEAT with a blown head gasket. You then can't build heat.
It seems a lot of you are having problems with heating and cooling of your cars, are any of you having water leaks into the front floorboards of your cars? Or for that matter, does your windshield fog up consistently? You may wish to have your heater core checked as this can cause many of the symptoms you are experiencing.
I just bought a 2000 Olds Intrigue with 118,00 miles on it for my 16 year old. I don't know what work was done on it before I bought it.
I had to have all four brakes, rotors, calipers replaced.
I had to have the blower motor replaced.
I heard a rattling from underneath somewhere and had the front right hub replaced. Still had the rattle. I pushed down on the hood and could feel it move up and down a little. I discovered the rubber piece that the hood closes onto just needed tightened by hand. so far no more rattles.
The turn signals occasionally wouldn't work. The dealership replaced the hazard switch and they have been working since.
My biggest problem is the flickering of the headlights! Alternator and battery tested good. Two mechanics told me that if you run the heater in the defrost setting the air conditioner clutch kicks on for maintenance purposes. Try turning the setting to floor or another setting. I have just
found this out today and hope it works. They said otherwise it could be the wiring.