30th Jan 2001, 10:22

I have owned a Peugeot 205 1.9 GTi for the last few months and it has been the dream car that it's reputation has led me to believe.

This one is a 1993 L reg, limited edition titanium grey which I bought for only £2300! This left me with some money to spare. In answer to your question, I bought a Magnex back box and a K&N induction kit and now the car feels smoother and has improved performance. The rumble from the exhaust and the roar from the K&N helps to blot out all the rattling.

So for around £200 I've made the car more efficient, raised the performance, it sounds better and makes it seem more comfortable from deleting the rattles. Looking through all car magazines showed me that Magnex exhausts and K&N induction kits really work well and on my car it's living proof. Go for it and get what everybody has been going on about for years!

13th Mar 2001, 09:23

I have just bought a 1.6 GTi. I love it. Christ! I even talk to it (..don't say a word, I know) and pat the steering wheel every time it responds to my actions. When I bought it, it cut out all the time and had a blowing exhaust. A £20 tune-up and £90 for the exhaust. I also bought a bottle of Wynns fuel injector cleaner (£4.99) and it has made a lot of difference. The engine is now very smooth and alot more responsive.

Eventually, I will go for other mod (K+N Induction, Chipping etc), when I am positive I will feel the difference to the car and not my wallet.

The odd thing about this car is that I don't particularly want to go anywhere at great speed. It is beautiful and the more chance people get to see it, the better.

29th Jan 2002, 05:38

I own a 1.9 GTi, on a G-plate. Currently unmodified, but would strongly recommend that you use a semi-synthetic engine oil (10/40) coupled with slick 50. This helped to reduce the noise at idle, quite expensive at £20 though.

Can anyone get rid of the incessant juddering at low engine speeds? Apparently the Mi16 conversion elliminates this problem, but is the hassle worth it?

I also have a problem with irratic idle speeds, can you help? Hope to hear your findings.

24th Aug 2002, 03:18

I have have a K reg 1.6 GTi in Dark Grey with a green interior (it looks a treat) its exterior is unmodified as I think it looks good anyway. I have got a green cotton air filter and a 4" Stainless steel exhaust. It sounds a beast. My GTi has a few running problems, cutting out when stopping, and it serious hates 10mph and under. I have had performance HT leads etc and set up on a rolling road, but we all know the problem- Air flow meter. They are rather expensive and Id rather put the money towards a super chip which should smooth its running.

Previously I owned a 205 Rallye (92) in white what a car, I just needed more luxury.

1st Aug 2003, 03:26

I had stalling with my 1.6 GTI when I first bought it. Try checking the advance and retard pipe and also the air flow meter adjustment, it sorted my problem!

28th Aug 2004, 14:19


Where abouts is the advance /retard pipe you have mentioned. I have a 1.6 GTi, with starting problems when cold. As soon as it warms up its fine. When cold I come to a stop ie junction in the road and the engine stalls. Any ideas


14th Jul 2005, 20:52

I've never owned any thing other than 205gti's. They're simply the best.

The cold stalling until warm is usually caused by the cold start device, which is basically a choke. It lives under the dizzy, at the back of the stat housing. It's controlled by water temp, and should make the car idle high until the water temp (and therefore engine temp) is high enough for the engine to run efficiently.

Replacing the sensor may cure it, but not always! Sometimes a good tune can cure stalling problems, or even just turning the idle speed up a tad.

The main reason 205's kangaroo, is because the ECU cuts fueling when the throttle is closed (although the very close gear ratios don't help). This is why the engine is lumpy on over run. The throttle position sensor on the throttle linkage housing controls this. When you lift off the throttle, the switch shuts and tells the ECU the throttle is closed, and fueling is reduced.

Although I prefer to run twin carbs on 205's, I've found disconnecting the throttle switch has made my injection cars run much smoother. One I run at the moment is totally "kangaroo" free!

6th Nov 2008, 15:51

Hi, where is this throttle switch so I can remove mine? Help please.

9th Apr 2009, 16:17

The reason 205 GTis have erratic revs and are a bit jumpy at low speeds is because as standard they have cams that lift quite high and also have very large valves. This means that when the car is revving low at low speed, there is too much petrol getting into the engine, and that is why it's OK when going faster at higher revs. One way to stop this is to switch the fuel injection to carbs. This will cancel out the erratic idling and also give more bhp, but saying that, the car will do no where near the same amount of mpg. It's a tough choice to make LOL.

9th Apr 2009, 17:48

I bought a 1.6 GTi in 2001 for £600.00, since then I have spent about 5 grand, on breakdowns and replacement parts.

I wouldn't have it any other way, I love the car.

Still have problems with idle though. Any ideas?

4th May 2009, 16:03


I recently brought a 'C' reg 1.6 GTi in red. It's done 145.000 miles, but no rust, no re-spray jobs, cracks, and the interior is perfect, and it was only £50.

The car starts up fine and drives fine in every gear with no noises, clonkin etc... but as soon as you put you foot right down, the car runs sluggish, backfires and tries to stall?

19th Jun 2009, 17:18

I think that may be to do with the air flow meter. I've got a 1.6 GTi, and I got an FSE power booster valve, and there's no "kangarooin" and it adds bhp.

15th Sep 2010, 07:03

I have a H reg 205 1.6 GTi and love it!! Charcoal grey with full leather seats. Runs and handles like a dream... except when you put foot down, it has a really annoying rattle. I was advised that this was the big end bearings? I had it looked at, and the crankshaft was fine, but the shells were knackered. Got new shells and the rattle was gone, but has gradually started again.. I have kept to the garage's advice and kept her under 4000 revs. Any thoughts?

4th Dec 2012, 16:17

I've just bought my first 1.9 GTi (1990 year). It's a good sound shell, but needs a little tidying.

Getting the starter refurbed today as it as missing the odd time, and I noticed the common idling problem - mine won't idle at all, ever, and will run only above 2000 RPM and sounds restricted. I'm gonna check the timing belt settings tomorrow, as I have my suspicions about it.

Any other common ones to look out for apart, from the AFM?

28th Mar 2013, 16:21

I've got a 1.9 from 1989 in Graphite, only bought it about 6 months ago, but the idle is terrible, it'll stall at least twice when first starting and sat stationary. The car will kangaroo once put into second gear for the first time when starting my journey also. It'll stall at traffic lights for about 5-10 minutes... I've had a second hand air flow meter fitted, and it didn't make a difference. What else could I change?

1st Mar 2015, 16:20

Hi there, mine is working opposite; when I start her up, the revs are about 2100 and don't seem to drop down. What could cause that?

When I first got the car a month ago, it was fine. I've since put a new distributor on her, checked all the plugs, and I'm wondering what I've done wrong?

Also, I can only get her to start when the distributor is pushed fully away from me i.e. the slot where the nut is not visible, HELP.

Regards, Neil.

8th Mar 2015, 23:55

I would change the petrol pump.

16th Jul 2017, 07:08


You should check the SAD (supplementary air device) connector. Probably it's not connected properly or the SAD heater element is wasted so you get too much extra air - thus high idle (the little hole in it should fully close thanks to bimetal after the engine has reached its operating temp). It is positioned under the distributor, bolted on water housing. You can remove it and test its heater element by connecting it directly to the battery (connect it when cold and it should slowly close the air passage). If it's OK then check the voltage on its wiring element. It should provide power to the SAD for 5 minutes after the engine is started, which should be more than enough to fully close the SAD.