30th Apr 2008, 13:54
I went to get an alignment down on my 99 Breeze, and found out that I need a new lower arm control, which they said is gonna run around $700.
21st Jan 2009, 10:51
I drive a 1998 Breeze. Replaced the blower motor resistor and still the fan is on high speed. Can any one help?
5th Feb 2009, 09:52
About the blower running on High only, after replacing the resistor.
Ahh yes, sounds familiar. I've changed it three times since new. And all of a sudden again, only on High. This time the switch started to fail. OK, at $275.00 dealer price, I'd shop around. Don't wait too long, your switch will fail completely is my guess.
25th Oct 2009, 22:41
I have a 98 Plymouth Breeze. Got it from my mom because I paid off my Dodge Neon a year and a half after it broke down. Anyhow. I got the car with just about 100,000 on it. Today it now has 267,100 miles on it. I've had it 5 years this year. The only issues currently are the transmission (which for a Dodge with the original, that's shocking) it just shifts hard and I know why now it has a solenoid stuck in a position. And my oxygen sensor is going. I've in the past replaced both wiring harness, a few sensors, and the fuel filter and pump, and the timing belt on Christmas day as it went while I was driving down the freeway.
Other wise it's a great car. But I wouldn't recommend anyone buying one, they are a hassle at times.
14th Jan 2010, 19:10
What are the odds, that I have bend values? Timing belt broke and I'm currently replacing the belt. Fan switch works only on high, mileage is about 180,000. Vehicle ran OK until fan broke, replaced rotors pads, alternator, all belts, one fuel injector, spark plugs, wires, value cover gasket, battery, and fuel pump.
23rd Mar 2010, 21:45
I have a 1998 Plymouth Breeze. When I got it, and this will probably amaze you, it had 170,000 miles on it, but ran like a champion; went a whole year so far, and it has been wonderful up until last month. The starter went; okay, no problem, then yesterday my fuel pump went, and I mean outta the blue just started hesitating, runs about 180.00 at Auto Zone, getting it put on tomorrow, and I was told I have an internal transmission problem, so yeah...
Wonderful car though, and by the way, that above excludes the EGR valve I put on it last month, and brakes and head gaskets and filters...
27th Apr 2010, 22:17
First of all, there is nothing wrong with Chrysler.
I have 98 Breeze and am absolutely impressed with it. My Husband drives a 2004 Sebring and our fun car is a 2008 Chrysler 300 SRT (OMG. What a car!!!) We have had every make of truck while running our landscape construction company and the Dodge trucks have been the best and have lasted the longest... including the transmissions, yes the transmissions. Even snow plowing, all other trucks broke down EXCEPT the Dodges. We still have a 1987 and 1989 Dodge truck that are still going strong... original engines (Cummins and gas) and transmissions.
Its all about how the vehicle is driven!!! How can a car, no matter what the make, survive being heavily accelerated every time you move the car. The engine and tranny are put under incredible stress, and over time will eventually break down. How can the brakes last when the car has to hard stop after all the heavy accelerating. Watch how you drive and you'll notice your fuel mileage improve and you won't have to replace your brakes as often. Money savings now and in the long run. Heavy accelerating = $, Hard braking = $.
Do you want to know why Buicks last so long and are so popular and get such good reviews? It's not because they are made any better than any other vehicle. Its because they are driven by older people who no longer need to race from A to B, but take their time and, consequently, their cars do not get the abuse other cars get, hence, last longer with fewer break downs. The proof is in the pudding.
Every car on the face of the earth requires brake jobs, oil changes and regular maintenance and gets yellowed headlight lenses (if left in the sun). There is a reason for this.
If you go over road bumps and curbs, every car will eventually experience problems with ball joints, etc. and will need to have repairs. Try to avoid bumps in the road and take it easy on the curbs. You will save in the long run.
When a car's fan is running, it means it's hot so don't turn the car off until the fan stops. This is extremely important. Otherwise, the engine bakes under the hood including all other parts, components, seals, etc. I believe this might be causing the gasket leaks, etc.
Also, do not run the car with the windshield defroster on in the summer if not needed (see below re: fogging windows) This is equivalent to running with the air conditioner on, hence, low power and poor gas mileage. You'll notice a difference right away when you turn it off.
You may find that your windows are fogging up all the time in the winter and when its humid out in the summer (or raining)... check the re-circulation switch. Move it to the position where fresh air is coming in, otherwise you are recirculating your breath, which is moist, hence causing your windows to fog up.
Hope these tips help.
25th Jan 2011, 01:43
I have owned an end of the year model Breeze, so it's 97 and 98; 97 body, 98 engine.
It's got the 2.4, and I can't stand it anymore. The head gasket was replaced first, then the serpentine belt, then the tie rod ends, power steering pump, spark plugs, coil pack, trans control solenoid, trans control module, trans filter, power steering return line, and it burns oil like crazy.
I say I'm sick of it, because I have only had it for 2 years. Knew the guy who owned it before I did, and he took as good of care as any other car owner who cares how their vehicle runs can. So it was in great shape; he redid the heads and serpentine belt, and head gasket right before I got it.
Head gaskets are common on the 2.4, I know, same as GMs in the mid 90's on certain engines. But everything just keeps breaking, and now it's gotten worse, and has me, my dad, and a shop of 9 guys all scratching our heads. I took it to my sisters boyfriend's dad's shop, where they ran diagnostics on it. So here is what they found... fuel pressure is good, power is good... everything is fine. For crying out loud, what can it be?
OK, so I will now get into what is going on. It is completely inconsistent, it can be on start up or while I'm driving down the road. Let's start when I start it up cold. It starts right up, no problem; it was Canadian, so it has a plug to keep the oil pan warm, then the problem will begin, it runs like crap. Ever driven a car and the TCC fails and causes the torque converter to not release while coming to a stop, and the car shakes abruptly and then stalls? It's kind of the same shake, but it can't be that, because I haven't moved the car. So it is basically a major miss, like something is clogged.
I dunno, EGR's fine, then you smell fuel, so a pistons not firing, right? Plugs, wires, coil pack all replaced. Injectors tested and fuel pressure is golden, then it stalls. When that happens, you might as well go get the battery charger, because the battery will be dead before you get it started again. It will turn over and maybe spit a puff or two, but nothing promising. It can take up to 20 minutes to get it started.
OK, so that's starting it when cold... now when driving down the road. It will be warm, and 20 minutes to 1 hour, doesn't matter how long, then out of nowhere, spitting and spattering, and it is running at 150-200 RPM, and I cut the fans and radio to see if it's a power issue, yeah, nope. I dealt with this for a while; it would get so low that the oil pressure light would pop on as it wanted to stall out. It was missing severely, or sounded like it anyways.
So now I am onto vacuum leaks, and going to tear it up tomorrow, because it's a hazard driving it like this, but not sure what it is. It's been about 8 months since the problem started, and it's been getting progressively worse.
Since I had it parked for 2 months to gather money for the solenoid, I had so much trouble starting; it took me no joke, 45 minute just cranking and cranking and cranking till finally it started. I thought it was done for a while there, and was scared. Even the guys down at the shop said they see a lot of the 2.4s by Daimler Chrysler, whether it is in a Stratus, Neon or Breeze, and they see the most problems out of them than most cars. Well I wouldn't recommend the 2.4 to anyone.
I had someone in Auto Zone the other day, go I can't afford one of them, you couldn't even give me one. He was referring to all the parts that go wrong on the darn things; they seem to always be breaking down.
It also makes a loud rumble in reverse, and will stall out sometimes. I just don't know anymore; if everything keeps going well at my new job, and classes in the fall are paid for here, in 4 months I will be hopefully looking for a new car, and park this one till I figure out what to do with it.
To all those that say they have never had a problem with theirs... you lucky sons of guns...
24th Dec 2011, 11:03
I had a problem with my 1998 Plymouth Breeze, there was a burning smell as well as rattling.. We soon found it was the A/C pump so we decided to bypass the A/C.. We put the new belt on it.. Now every time I turn the wheel either way, it squeals and the wheel fights me... Anyone know what I should do? Is the steering issue the belt? Or is that a separate issue with my power steering?
3rd Aug 2017, 20:21
I have one 98 (2.4 motor). Also my power steering line busted; it makes noises when you turn the steering, plus something's wrong because it also leans after you get so far down road; been told it was struts or ball joints, not sure, almost afraid to drive it. I had a Pontiac do what you're talking about, but it would start just die in gear. My Mom had a car that would flood out and take a while to start seriously. I only had this, a Breeze, a LeBaron, a Neon and a van as a Dodge products. My Neon blew a regulator and caught on fire, so I don't have it anymore.