1st May 2008, 11:34
I have posted before about my awesome car. But I thought I would just give a little update. At least most of the cars discussed are still semi functional. Mine sits - unable to move - in my garage. It won't start or drive anymore. The last time my car was "driveable", I got it out of the shop, drove it for two days. I was DRIVING it home from work when it sputtered to a sad death on the side of the road. After just moving, paying more and more to get this awful contraption fixed, I was beside myself. I have taken it everywhere - both to dealers and individual repair shops. Towed and driven. Replaced too many pumps, straps and parts to even count. I can't afford it anymore. My dad thinks I should go to Saturn and get them to acknowledge me. (Um, can you please buy me out?) I know it's not a total waste - but I also know that they are aware of the crappy car, it's history and the number of people who are suffering because of a poorly executed concept. The last mechanic I took it to gave me the number for an attorney. I'm not kidding.
I wish I could say that I've remained optimistic. That I'm sure Saturn makes good cars. I have friends who LOVE theirs. But, I'm not optimistic. I can say that once you have an experience like this - I don't care. I won't be buying another Saturn, good, bad or otherwise. I just wish they would read some of this.
1st May 2008, 15:27
I have had the same problems, oil cooler, brake lights, body control module at between 50,000 and 75,000 miles. Saturn recommend changing the timing belt at 100,000 miles, assuming the water pump lasts that long. Don't wait until then, change the timing belt no later than 80,000 miles. These cars have an interference engine ie. if the belt breaks you will most likely total the engine. Not good. A timing belt only costs about $40.00, but the design of the car will probably mean a 4 or 5 hour labor charge to install the new belt.
2nd May 2008, 20:34
Here is a link to the interference engine that GM used on the L series and other vehicles: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GM_54-Degree_V6_engine
The more I read about this build... the more worried I get :(
11th May 2008, 09:34
Hello,
I have 2000 Saturn L Series. The car had a code showing lean bank, etc.. I erased the code with my OBD 2 and somehow messed the car up. It will barely start. It will not idle, and runs rough until 1000rpm. If you can get it above 1000rpm, it seems to run OK.
Any ideas as to what happened and what is wrong?
Thanks!!!
19th Jun 2008, 20:08
Hopefully, the 29 Aug 2007 posting re: the CPS (crankshaft position sensor) will be the answer to my problem. I will keep all informed on my success or failure. The original poster, seemed to have suggest after several months.
CAR: 2002 Saturn L300, automatic.
PROBLEM: I filled up with gas, pulled into McDonald's for lunch and when I tried to leave, the car wouldn't start. It was cranking (battery and starter were OK), but acted as though it wasn't getting any gas. Thankfully, it started after only about 10 min (I was 200 miles from home).
The problem resurfaced a couple of weeks later, and a week after that, and a week after that,...etc. Oddly enough, it seemed to happen mostly on weekends, mostly with a fuller tank of gas, and mostly when my husband was driving. The delay before starting in these subsequent episodes ranged from 20, 30, or 60 min.
So my LONG TIME, very reliable and trustworthy local mechanic, found that the fuel pump had low pressure (after episode #2), but $660 didn't fix the problem. (Of note, he's never been able to reproduce the problem.)
After several more episodes, my office director (motor oil in his veins) suggested that perhaps there was water in the gas. So, a new fuel filter and two bottles of HEET later, it's still happening. (It's happening less often, but still happening.) And now there's a new problem.
PROBLEM: Sitting in traffic, coasting into Wal-Mart's parking lot, idling in front of the grocery, and again sitting in traffic, the car dies. It starts right up (thank God!), but how frustrating (and a bit scary).
SES Light: After most of the non-start episodes, a steady Service Engine Soon light came on and either remained on until my mechanic reset it or went off after about 2 days. When this light would first come on, the car would shift in a very jerky fashion. It didn't continue after I drove home and restarted the car.
Codes: Of no help.
P1780-Transmission Control Module.
So, I'm hoping the CPS will be the answer I'm looking for. If you're one who prays, please say one for me, my car, and my husband.
3rd Jul 2008, 00:04
First, let me say I owned a 1995 SL1 for 9 years & LOVED it!!! It never had to have any major repairs. Husband still drives it (200,000+ miles) and it still has never had to have any major repairs. When it came to for me to buy a new car it was a no brainer - another Saturn. Now I am questioning my decision. I feel very lucky that I have not had some of the problems that others here have had. Oh, yeah, and my next car will be a Toyota!
I have a 2003 L300 I bought new in December 2003. It has 75,000 miles on it. So far I have had oil changes when the oil sensor light goes on. I have replaced brakes & tires. In the 4 years I have been driving this car I have not had any repair problems, until March 2008.
OK, here is what happened:
Last year my SES light would come on & engine would surge. Someone told me to try tightening the gas cap. I did & for a while it seemed to work. The SES light did not come on & no engine surging.
Since the beginning of winter tightening the gas cap no longer seemed to work. I would drive for about 25 miles & the SES light would go on & the engine would surge. If I turn the engine off for a while the SES light goes off. I knew I needed to take it to the dealer.
Then I noticed fluorescent green liquid under the car. Husband said it was a condenser leak. I knew the condenser was going to be a very expensive repair.
I took the car into the dealer for a diagnostic. Here is what I was told:
1. Condenser needs to be replaced $810.
2. SES light due to "bank 2 sensor" & thermostat. Cost to replace $230 & $432 respectively.
Other recommended service items:
3. Serpentine belt needs to be replaced $211.
4. Cooling system flush $132.
5. Clean fuel injection system $132.
6. New battery $135.
OK, now this is the weird part. When the service guy was giving me the estimate he neglected to tell me the correct price. He told me that the thermostat replacement was $230 & he did not tell me about the "bank 2 sensor". So I was quit shocked when the SES repair went from $230 to $662. I lost my temper.
The service manager came over to talk with me. I told him about my excellent experience with the SL1 & how disappointed I was with the L300. I told him I was upset that the estimate was incorrect. I said that I expected the condenser repair to cost about $1,000 but I did not expect an additional $1,000 in repairs. The Service manager said that he would make some calls & see if he could get me a break on the repairs. Now I thought he was blowing smoke but I received a call from him at 4:30 pm today. He said for $500 Saturn would replace the condenser, the thermostat & the "bank 2 sensor".
For $500 I had the Dealership replace the condenser, thermostat & oxygen sensor. In addition I had them replace the serpentine belt for an extra $211.
OK, Took the car in. Apparently the condenser leak "magically" repaired itself. Because all that was needed was a new condenser line. (Can you say, "let's rip off a woman?") I had specifically asked the service rep on Tuesday if both the condenser & line needed to be replaced & he assured me that, yes, both of them needed to be replaced b/c the screw that held the bracket in place had penetrated the condenser.
So, condenser line, thermostat, and O2 sensor replaced for $500 and serpentine belt replaced for $211. When I received the bill I specifically had to ask for the $59 diagnostic fee to be deducted.
But, here comes the best part, on my way to work at 25 miles the SES light came on!!!
Stopped at Autozone on the way home from work. SES light was on again. The code:PO135 O2 sensor.
Took the car into the dealership. Showed the service rep the AutoZone printout. I expressed how upset I was that after a $500 repair I was still having the exact same problem with the car.
The technician examined the car. The service rep informed me that it was the O2 sensor on Bank 1 that was giving the error code. On Thursday it was the O2 sensor on Bank 2 that had been replaced. So he offered to replace the sensor for the cost of the part, $124. I agreed.
After the second O2 sensor repair in two days I attempted to drive the car home. When I had driven 1 mile the SES light came on AGAIN!!! Same symptoms.
I pulled into Autozone to have the code read. The man at AutoZone said that no code was coming up.
So back to Saturn. This time it was P1811 shift solenoid. There was a conference between me, the technician, the service rep, and the service manager. I was ASSURED this time the car would be repaired. It would be done at no cost and I was given a loaner car at no charge.
Here is what is going on THIS time - June 2008.
Last week I am driving & SES & wrench light go on. Then they immediately go out.
Several days later they light up again. I am cruising on the expressway at 65 mph. This time I notice the tach jumping from 1 to 2 on the dial. I don't notice the car driving any differently when the tach is malfunctioning. When the tach jumps to 2 the lights go off.
Several days ago I am driving 65 mph on the expressway when SES & wrench light up & I see the tach is at 0. Then jumps to 2 and lights go out.
In the morning I drove home from work with no dash lights.
That night on the way to work I did have dash lights, however, my odometer was not working. It was completely black.
Well, I put a new battery in the car (I needed one anyway - $75 Wal-mart husband installed). Still had the same problems; no odometer, wrench light & SES light on when at 65 mph, tachometer needle at 0.
Took it to the dealer because I thought it was the BCM. Error codes M5305 & M5307 & P2107. Recommended repair - replace the throttle body. $1050.
The first thing after I spoke to the service rep on the phone was to go get my car. Neither I nor my husband believe it is the TAC because the car is running fine.
I have noticed that the tach problem seems to only happen at night when I am using the cruise control. I have not observed this problem during the day while using the cruise control. So I did an experiment - This morning on my way home from work I turned the headlights on & set the cruise. Within 5 miles the tach went to 0, the wrench light & SES lights went on. I turned the headlights off & tach went back to 2 & lights went out!
Found out on the Saturn Forums that the source of my electrical problems might be caused by shorting tail lights.
I never received a recall letter. I will be going to the dealer to have this recall work done.
Hope this helps someone. BTW check out the Saturn Fans Forum. The posters are really helpful over there with mechanical problems.
Cheryl
Naperville, IL
4th Apr 2008, 15:17
Well folks I'm back. I'm the guy who posted earlier this morning (4/4/08) with the 2001 L300. I just peeled-up the carpet and it was not really soaked through to the underbody too bad. Just had to wipe with a cloth. Will have to bring it down to the car wash and give the carpet a good shampooing after the heater core repair.
As I stated in the last entry, the L300 overall was a good car for us up until the 60,000 mile mark when the GM time bomb starts to go off. I've had several GM models throughout the years and it seems they all do that. I don't know why I thought it would have been any different with this model. I was actually comparing the L to a Camry at the time and went with the value-cost of the Saturn. Had I made the choice to go with Toyota, I could have ran it up well over 100,000 like I planned to do with this one. Oh well, plan better on the next one. With all of the initial research I did, it certainly didn't show any red flags then, but who would have known at that time. The L model had only been out 2 years at that point and they tell you not to buy a new model until into the third year or rev. I'm sorry but NO MORE GM's until they really start prooving themselves with great reliable cars.
Also, the battery I had just put in a couple of years ago is testing weak. Now, I don't know if it's the Interstate battery itself or the poor electrical system of the Vauxhall made engine. Until the next one...
Kjazz/Portland OR.